Kura Kura Island: An Indonesian Paradise

By Lisa Goins

My husband and I live on the island of Java in Indonesia with our four children. We teach at the International school where our

children attend. We have traveled extensively throughout Java enjoying the beauty of Indonesia.

Our most memorable family vacation came about last year when my husband said that he wanted to take our children to a small, almost deserted Island in the Java Sea called Menyawakan. I said, “You’re crazy!” But after a little research and a modest down payment, we were leaving the ground in a Cessna 402, flown by an ex-Air Force fighter pilot!

Pick your Paradise

Menyawakan is one of the 27 “paradise islands” in the protected Karimunjawa Marine Park archipelago. This resort island was selected in 1999 to be the local host and dive advisor for the National Geographic TV documentary, “Marine Parks of Indonesia,” an expedition led by Francis Lee of Singapore.

It is located in the Java Sea, which is filled with reefs and marine life that offers every diver a new and exhilarating experience. Snorkelers and divers come from all over Indonesia to study the marine life surrounding this enchanted island. The resort on the island is called Kura Kura Resort.

Just after takeoff, our pilot asked if one of our children would like to fly the plane. Before I could object, my youngest son Spencer took the wheel and we all put on our white knuckles! The view was beautiful from the small plane. An assortment of islands and reefs were scattered everywhere like lily pads floating on a pristine sea.

Behind Curtain Number. One

Menyawakan was a spectacular sight. We could see the entire reef from the air, jutting out from the coconut trees, in shades of green painted on the water. The island itself is about two miles around, a leisurely walk, with never ending views of mountains and sea. Coconut trees sprinkle the sand like candles on a cake. Here in this paradise there is only one fly in the ointment, falling coconuts!

The pilot asked us if we wanted a closer look. While I was wondering what he meant by that, my children were nodding yes and the plane suddenly took a nosedive toward the bay! He circled the Island in one swoop, the wing of the plane nearly touching the water. For a moment I shared the thrill of a kamikaze pilot! We all held our breath and our hearts stopped, but our sense of adventure kept going as we marveled at the beauty of God’s creation from just a few feet above the water. We could actually see the staff at Kura Kura Resort wave at us and we could read the names on the boats. That moment remains frozen in my mind.

After we circled around Menyawakan, we headed for the big island of Karimunjawa for our landing. A delightful panorama of rice fields and mountains lined the runway. Children ran alongside the plane as we touched down and taxied over to a small hut like building, the Karimunjawa Airport. We deplaned, walked through the building, and watched wide-eyed as they threw our luggage into the back of an old pickup truck. My boys jumped into the back of the truck, and we followed them on foot. We proceeded down a dirt road to a ramp that led to a swamp. A speedboat, parked among literally hundreds of jellyfish, awaited our arrival. We boarded the outrigger named Fountain 38 and took off across the Java Sea.

Da Plane Da Plane

Arriving at Kura Kura Resort is much like arriving at Fantasy Island. The staff greets you as you get off the boat with smiles and huge coconut welcome drinks. As we scoped out the view from beneath the coconut trees, a sense of wonder surrounded us. They showed us to our bungalows, which were only about 15 feet from the water’s edge. I marveled at the thought of falling asleep with the sound of waves lapping gently at the shore.

There are 10 two-room deluxe bungalows and 5 VIP bungalows on the Island. They are currently in the process of building five new luxury beach villas, each with a private swimming pool. Every bungalow faces west with a sunset view. All rooms are furnished in teakwood. They are air-conditioned with all the luxuries of a five-star resort.

After settling in we all took a walk across the beach as the sun began to set. The sunset over the Java Sea is a sight that beckons attention. As the sun slips into the ocean, it leaves colors of every hue for your eye to follow.

Snorkeling:

The next morning began with fresh fruit and an assortment of baked delicacies. We sat in the open-air restaurant (the only one on the island), with a beautiful view of the harbor, listening to the morning and planning the day’s activities. We decided to spend the day snorkeling around the island. This was our children’s first snorkeling trip, and we wanted to start them out slowly. After we ate we went to the dive shop and gathered up all the equipment we would need, including lots of sunscreen, and headed out to the dock. All of our snorkeling equipment was included in our package price.

My oldest son Mitchell was the first one in the water. He is 16 years old and had never snorkeled. He had that teenager attitude like, “O.k., this is going to be fun for about 5 minutes.” He put on his mask, stuck his face in the water, and when he emerged he looked like he had seen the Loch Ness monster. He was stunned.

The water below the dock was filled with millions of fish of all colors and size. “It’s just like an aquarium!” he blurted out before he dove in again. About 5 feet from the dock the ocean floor drops off. At one point we spotted a school of barracudas. We stopped to gawk at them, partly out of fear and partly out of awe, when suddenly we realized that there were hundreds of them!

There was literally a wall of barracuda’s within just a few feet of our fins! They were seemingly unconcerned about this little interruption from the world above and just moseyed on by with little regard for us. We slowly swam toward the surface, breaking into the air, yelling, “Did you see that?”

Many moments such as this ensued throughout the day. My daughter and I snuck up on a small octopus and watched as she maneuvered around her deep-sea home, changing colors every few minutes. We stared as a friendly eel kept poking his head out of his rocky dwelling, waiting for us to get tired and go away. My husband saw a grouper larger than himself, and finding Nemo became the challenge of the day.

Exquisite Coral

As we began to venture away from the dock we encountered a breathtaking array of coral. Exquisite coral of every kind lay quilted across the reef bed, a never-ending parade of bright colors providing endless hours of enjoyment for snorkelers. Canals, seemingly hand crafted by nature in a maze of beauty, were nestled just below the water’s surface.

We swam from canal to canal feeling the silent energy of underwater life. Sea anemones, kingdom and castle of the clownfish, were scattered among the coral, often hidden in cracks and crevices. Sea urchins, also known as nature’s pincushions, were to be carefully avoided, while soft corals and sea fans could be inspected up close and even touched. Soft corals, often referred to as underwater flowers, came in dazzling shades of red, pink, purple and yellow.

Stingrays were an exciting find, and starfish were scattered everywhere, clinging to rocks and coral as if hanging on for dear life! Dinner at Kura Kura’s one and only restaurant proved to be a most enjoyable experience. They serve both Western and Indonesian cuisine with assortments of seafood. We had three meals each day, and all were delicious! Drinks must be purchased separate from the package price.

SCUBA Diving

The island has its own dive shop, which provides SCUBA diving equipment free to all guests who have purchased dive packages. You can arrange several different dive packages including trips to nearby fringing reefs, atolls and underwater wrecks. The surrounding waters have a huge variety of fish, some rare, such as crocodile fish and leafy scorpion fish. Whale sharks are spotted year-round and add a lot of excitement for the adventurous diver!

Yan, the dive instructor, invited us to go out on an all-day SCUBA diving trip. The boat was equipped with six wet suits, snorkel equipment and a full staff to cook for us throughout the day. We traveled across the Java Sea for about 45 minutes to a small, uninhabited island. We docked our boat in the bay area to facilitate dive instructions and still be able to swim to the good snorkeling areas.

Yan, our dive instructor, taught everyone in our family how to dive, one at a time. Learning to SCUBA dive is an experience in itself. Hold your nose, blow out through your ears in order to equalize the pressure every foot or so, breath through your mouth, let the air out of your floaties so you will sink, thumbs up if you want to go to the surface, thumbs down if you want to keep sinking, and whatever you do don’t forget to blow out your ears or you might start bleeding in the cavities just above your eyes from the pressure (which actually happened to our son, Mitchell). Whoa! That is a lot of things to remember!

Yan was patient with our children and gave excellent instructions. Each one of us spent time diving and snorkeling except for Hailey, my eldest daughter; she spent most of the day seasick!

Back to Kura Kura

During the ride back to Kura Kura, a family of dolphins that decided to join us pleasantly surprised us. We watched in awe as they raced along beside our boat, jumping into the air, spraying water on everyone and making wonderful noises. They put on quite a show for us, swimming seamlessly through the water, side by side, in unison. What a perfect ending to a lovely day at sea.

If you are interested in visiting Kura Kura Resort, see their web site at kurakuraresort.com.

For More Info:

Kura Kura Booking Office
PADI Resort # 6133
Sunset Beach Cottages
Teluk Awur – 59424 Jepara
Indonesia

Phone +62 (0)291 595 931
Phone +62 (0)291 595 932
Fax +62 (0)291 595 933

Email: kurakura@idola.net.id
Web: www.kurakuraresort.com

Package Prices:
Packages begin at 2 nts and go Up to 6 nts. You can also get more elaborate dive packages. See website for details.

All Packages Include
Accommodations in deluxe bungalow, All meals in restaurant, aeroplane return transfer to / from Kura Kura Resort, boat dives and scuba gear (dive packages), use of snorkeling equipment, sea kayak, paddle boats, welcome drink and 21% Tax and service.

Jet skis are available for rent at 50.00 per hour.

How to get to Kura Kura Resort

From Jakarta Indonesia

From Jakarta to Semarang
Departure Jakarta
Garuda Indonesia flight GA230, dep. 06.35 arr. Semarang 07.30
Mandala flight RI290, dep. 06.45 arr. Semarang 07.40

From Semarang to Jakarta
Departure Semarang
Garuda Indonesia flight GA237, dep. 18.35 arr. Jakarta 19.30
Mandala flight RI297, dep. 17.10 arr. Jakarta 18.05

Connections form Jogjakarta and Bali are also available.

See their website for details.

Contact our aviation office for more

detailed information at: PT Kura Kura Aviation
Achmad Yani International Airport
501 45 Semarang
Indonesia
Phone: 024-760 8735
Tel/Fax 024-761 2282
Email: kura2aviation@idola.net.id

Lisa Goins lives and teaches in Indonesia.

Camping the Dry Tortugas in the Gulf of Mexico: An unusual visit to Florida

By Terri Clemmons

While researching an upcoming trip to the Florida Keys, I came across The Dry Tortugas, one of the most remote and least well known of the U.S. National Parks.
I knew the snorkeling and history of the island would be right up my husband’s alley, but I was not sure that this seasick-prone, wilderness-adverse wife could handle the 2.5 hour ferry ride to get there.

But the more I delved into it, the more intrigued I was about Fort Jefferson, complete with moat, that lies 70 miles west of Key West on Garden Key, one of the seven islands that make up the Dry Tortugas.

But if I was going to endure a long ferry ride, why not go all in and make my first camping experience a primitive camping experience in the middle of the Gulf of Mexico? My family guffawed and my friends gasped, but I actually loved it!

The Island

The fort takes up most of the island and is 19th century marvel with rich history including use as a prison for Abraham Lincoln’s assignation conspirators.

It photographs beautifully, especially after day-trippers have left and you seemingly have it all to yourself. The ferry operators offer a daily, guided tour but we opted to self-tour. A small bookstore/gift shop in the fort is underwhelming, but it is air-conditioned so it is nice browsing midday.

Snorkeling the coral heads area off the south beach had the best variety of coral and fish. We saw tarpon at the old pilings by the north beach. A map is given to campers upon arrival. If you are new to snorkeling, this will be an awesome experience as it was for other campers.

If you are experienced, it was not that impressive, but still enjoyable. We found out that the best snorkeling is at Loggerhead Key, but that would require a kayak to access. If we had it to do over again, we would rent a kayak and bring it on the ferry, as snorkeling was one of our main interests there. One of the park workers said it was accessible if you are a strong swimmer, but you would have to be Michael Phelps or have a death wish. Seriously, it is a long way off.

Sensational Stargazing

Sunsets and stargazing were spectacular! We even saw the elusive green flash at sunset one night. We were fortunate to have clear skies and it was mesmerizing. We saw the dusty “Milky Way” and shooting stars long after most campers were snug in their tents, failing to even look up. Speechless.

We set up our beach chairs and reclined with an evening refreshment. Sigh. Heavenly. Stay away from the beach at night though because it was the only place that we saw a mosquito. We had a little flashlight that led us back to our tent when we couldn’t keep our eyes open anymore.

The water is pristine and beaches are sandy, unlike most beaches in the Keys. Still, the terrain is rough and good water shoes saved the day. We took two cheapo inflatable rafts and drifted in the afternoon to stay cool. Bliss. There is very little shade on the entire island so the chair sun umbrella came in very handy. Beware of rogue waves though. Our gear was almost washed away in a sudden series of waves. If we had been snorkeling at the time, it would have been gone.

Bird watching was limited in June as Bush Key, the island connected to Garden Key by a sandbar, was blocked off to visitors because it was nesting season. The magnificent Frigatebird could be seen flying overhead everyday and a few other birds could be seen on the grounds.

In our camping orientation talk, we were told that Cuban refugee boats landed there over a dozen times times last year. There is a display about it in the fort. The conservation officer explained that they are grateful to be there but usually require immediate medical attention. It’s humbling to contemplate their journey when you see the boat that held 32 people.

The Ferry

The Yankee Freedom III ferry is the only option for campers other than a pricier charter experience. The cost for the ferry is $190 for campers ($170 for day trippers that have only four hours on island) plus $3 in cash for each night of camping, for a maximum stay of three nights.

I booked in early February for a mid-June camping experience andcould not get my first choice in dates, so book as early as possible at drytortugas.com.

Campers have to be at the ferry terminal by 6:30 a.m. to load gear so we stayed in Key West the night before in the nearby Marquesa Hotel for $210.

That included parking and incredibly accommodating services like storing our luggage until we returned from camping, freezing water, refrigerating food, and providing ice for the cooler. After you load your gear, go up to the terminal and check in. You get a numbered boarding pass but the numbers mean nothing.

Be prepared to line up if you need a prime spot, like a lower deck, middle to aft window seat to avoid seasickness. We had calm seas which are typical in June and I was fine even though I am prone to motion sickness.

Boarding starts at 7:30 so you do have time to grab a café con leche at the Cuban Coffee Queen that is a block and half away on Margret Street.

Breakfast is served on the ferry with basic continental fare. Lunch is also served from 11-1 which is a build your own sandwich bar, fruit, and pasta salad.

Campers can pick which day to have their lunch and we picked the last day there as all our supplies had to be back on the boat at 10:30 on the day of departure. We bought lunch one other day for $7 but you can’t count on it in case the ferry does not come due to the weather.

Preparation

We bought three liter-bottles of “smart” water with electrolytes and froze them at our hotel to put in the bottom of the cooler and filled the cooler with ice. Ice is a precious commodity. You can purchase a bag of ice for $7 from the ferry the next day, but again you can’t rely on it.

We took a case of bottled water and four gallons of water and had plenty to use as a “shower” at the end of the day to wash off the salt water.

There is a lot to schlep, but it is easier than it sounds as the ferry provides carts to load and unload at the terminal and campsite, and you don’t want to be short on water.

We also took a small jar of peanut butter, jam and one loaf of bread for dinners. Yes, there was some food envy when other campers were grilling but the thought of hauling all that for two nights was too much to bear. The pbj’s were delicious at the end of an active day. We took Clif bars, trail mix, and brews too.

You must have a tent and after some research I decided to spend a little more than a cheapo because the tent (MSR Elixir 3-Person Tent) I got was supposed to be keep the tent cooler (It did.) and I might want to go camping again sometime (I do!). I thought I could always put it on eBay if it was a disaster. I also bought some blowup twin mattresses that included an air pump and that was a huge comfort factor. They fit perfectly. For more on preparation, visit here.

Primitive Camping

Primitive it is. No fresh water source at all on the island, thus the Dry. Toilet facilities are of the non-flushing variety, which was the worst part for me. They would benefit from better maintenance.

Campers must be prepared with everything they will need as there are no services provided once you are there, especially water, as the sun can be unrelenting.

The temperature hovered around 90 degrees for the two days we were there which is the average temperature. Everything that you take in must be taken out.

We spent the mornings snorkeling and then once the day-trippers arrived and it got crowded, we headed back to the campsite to sit in the shade for some reading and nodding off where the breeze was actually pleasant. The fort offers some shade as well.

We snagged campsite #6 that was one of the two shady spots available the day we arrived. I highly suggest that you bolt immediately from the ferry after the “camper talk” and claim a site by putting some of your stuff on a numbered picnic table. You can go back and get a cart and get the rest of your stuff. I felt a wee bit guilty when the other campers arrived to find no good sites left, but not bad enough to give them my shade. Those campers headed to the overflow area and it is in the sun all day. That could have been a deal breaker for me.

Another concern for me was rats. One camper confirmed that at one time there was a rodent population that trolled the campsite at night, but they have been recently eradicated. Dodged that bullet.

We still kept meticulous care of the campsite and hung the garbage from the pole provided. The ferry collects all trash and a new bag is given out when you bring your bag. They have recycling bins as well.

Hermit crabs are abundant and you have to watch where you step, especially at night. I ventured out of my tent about 2 a.m. to get another look at the starry heavens and had to step lightly. Small lizards are also present but not in scary numbers.

Sudden, short-lived rain showers occur even when the skies are mostly sunny, so put the rain fly on your tent. One couple did not and paid for it.

Happy Campers

There was a mix of experienced (professional?) campers and the novices as well as couples and families. I felt safe and comfortable the entire trip. We left our stuff and never had a problem. The difficult getaway may be a good deterrent, or campers are inherently honest and I am a cynic.

Do not expect privacy. Other tents are literally a few steps away. It was a little weird, but we just did our thing and so did they. People were friendly but not, “Let’s be best friends this weekend”. Shudder.

Be discreet with your flashlight at night and point it at the ground. Some people let their kids flash it all over the place and annoyed at least one camper trying to stargaze. Campers rise at the crack of dawn but we all looked alike, happily scraggly.

Camping at Dry Tortugas is a unique travel adventure with an optimal risk/reward ratio. If this reluctant newbie can do it, so can you.

Terri Clemmons is a freelance writer for GoNOMAD Travel and a wife, mom, teacher, writer, and wayfarer.

A family cruise adventure in the South China Sea

By Michelle Lamb

I discovered a way to get back to my diving, and at the same time, enjoy a family vacation. The answer?  A liveaboard boat cruising in the warm waters of the South China Sea.

The Hans Christian Andersen (HCA) liveaboard in the  Philippines is the answer to your adventure travel wish and includes some vacation laziness. Divers and snorkelers of all ages enjoy a week of sailing to pristine beaches, untouched reefs, and WWII wrecks in the clear and warm South China Sea.    

My family of four boards the HCA on a sunny and breezy December Saturday afternoon from Batangas, a two hour drive south of Manila.   We soon become a party of 32, greeted by a crew  of 26, and set sail into the proverbial sunset while being served tropical drinks.

Although not a luxury cruise, with such a low passenger to crew ratio, the service is always kind and immediate.   By week’s end, we know everyone on board.

Scheduled Dives

Every morning we are given a schedule and explanation of the day’s excursions and  scheduled dive times.   My husband and I sign up for the 11 dives offered that week, five of which are wreck dives.

Our children, ages four and ten, either join us on the dive boat and snorkel while waiting for us to surface, play on a nearby island beach, or amuse themselves in the HCA TV/game room area—called the Mermaid Salon.

The HCA has several routes; we chose the Northern Route bringing us to Coron Bay, a WWII wreck diving cemetery, and Apo Reef Natural Reserve, the world’s second-largest contiguous coral reef system—all featuring world-class diving sites.

One of the more interesting wrecks is the Akitsushima, a Japanese seaplane carrier.  

After diving, the Nanshin Maru, a unique surface interval is spent exploring a cave on Black Island.   While the wrecks support beautiful corals and huge schools of fish, Apo Reef presents us with white-tipped reef sharks and turtles.

Pandan Island

Our first stop is the white sand laced Pandan Island.   Every day the ship anchors near equally stunning islands for snorkeling or quiet beach time.  

Most of the beaches are deserted other than a simple palm frond hut or two.   We are brought from the HCA to shore with three different chase boats.

After a guided snorkel and our own discovery time, a gourmet lunch is brought from the HCA to the beach.   The food is fresh and delicious every meal without exception.   Usually, there is a choice of meat and fish or seafood, tropical fruits, homemade bread, rice and various vegetables.  

One night we even have a pig roast on the beach, complete with the crew singing after dinner and of course, more tropical drinks.

The crew serves dinner early to our children, so my husband and I can enjoy happy hour and an adult dinner.   This is our chance to get to know the other passengers better.

The grandparents of one family did the cruise two years earlier and liked it so much, they brought the rest of their family on a second voyage—nine in all.  

The ship’s owner is Danish, so passengers are largely Scandinavian   and range from retired professionals, couples with and without children, and solo travelers exploring   Asia.  

We really hit it off with our fellow divers and  plan to meet next year for another dive trip.

The non-beach excursions gave us a slice of rural Philippine life.   We visited three different islands, mostly inhabited by fishermen and farmers.  

Riding in a Sidecar

In Sablayan, Mindoro, much to our children’s delight, we rode in the sidecar of motor-tricycles to a local history museum and market. 

In Culion, a former leper colony, we visited the former hospital, now a museum.   And lastly, Panlaitan, purely a fishing village, we visited the local school and a few of the villagers’ homes.

The HCA provided my family with enough choices to feel like we’ve had a week of adventure travel combined with relaxing excursions and a bonus of forming life-long friendships.   For booking your adventure cruise, see www.hcacruise.com .

Michelle Lamb writes from Guam, has also lived in Europe and the mainland U.S.A.  Read more about her adventures at www.michellesfamilytravel.com

By Susan Fogwell

Whether you’re an experienced sailor or a novice, a chartered or bareboat sailing vacation is the ultimate, carefree adventure. Time is measured by the sun’s altitude and declination, not the timepiece on your wrist. You’re on island time — with no worries!

With no set schedule, you have the freedom to island hop, raise and lower the anchor at your discretion, explore as many islands as you wish, or just sit back and relax with a Pina Colada. Moreover, you can accessorize your sailboat with toys: windsurfers, kayaks, scuba, and snorkeling gear.

Bareboating is chartering without a captain; you’re in command of your own vessel. With a regular charter, a hired captain –- for an additional fee — comes with the boat. Depending on your qualifications, each has its advantages.

In order to bareboat, you must prove your sailing competence to the charter company. This usually involves a series of questions testing your knowledge along with personal sailing references.

Recently, my husband and I with two other couples bare boated out of Bas-de-Fort, Guadeloupe. The boat was luxurious and brand-spanking-new. From Guadeloupe, we sailed to Antigua for the world renowned Antigua Race Week.

We stayed on the south coast of Antigua at Falmouth Harbour along with multi-million dollar mega-yachts. Each day we positioned our catamaran at the windward mark in order to watch the boats in the race raise their spinnakers. On the last day, we sailed to the practically uninhabited island of Barbuda – 30 nautical miles away.

With the exception of a rustic seasonal resort, which was boarded up, nothing else exists on the island. It’s meant for pure escapism and is only accessible by a boat.

We returned to Antigua for the final races and then headed south to Guadeloupe’s outer islands, Les Saintes. The main town, Terre Haute, is a mini St. Barts. Other than the French families and sailors who visit, it’s unknown to most. Among all of us, this was our favorite spot.

There are several charter companies to choose from. After fully investigating the top three, we decided on Sunsail, based in Annapolis, Maryland. They had the best price for the same size catamaran as the other companies.

With more than 1,000 boats in their fleet and 36 bases in 23 countries, you can customize your charter according to your likes and dislikes. For independent travelers seeking an adventurous vacation on the water, this is your ticket. Not only is it a unique vacation, but it can be cost effective as well.

Sunsail offers discounts during the off-season and during specific weeks called “Reef Weeks.” Moreover, after you have completed your first charter, you will be offered a 20% repeat charter discount. Sunsail has an alliance with American Airlines offering discounted airline tickets to the Caribbean as well.

Catamarans have become a popular choice in the chartering world due to the spaciousness, stability, and privacy that a monohull doesn’t offer. They offer bountiful creature comforts with a deck-level saloon and a roomy cockpit.

We chose a 41-foot Lagoon catamaran for the seven-day excursion. Each of the two hulls has two full staterooms, and private heads (bathrooms). The boat easily sleeps eight people. Bareboating with three or four couples at approximately $6000.00 during Reef Week makes it an affordable trip. Other than owning your own boat, how else can you flit from one island to the next, on your own time?

Depending on your needs, there’s a cat for every wallet. Or, if you prefer a monohull for its natural sailing abilities, this is a good option as well.

In addition, there are other expenditures: customs fees on each island, dockage, water, electricity, fuel and, of course, provisioning the boat. However, anchoring in a snug harbor is free. Most importantly, for a modest fee, optional insurance is offered for each individual; pay it and you’ll have peace of mind.

Sunsail provides snorkeling gear and kayaks at no extra charge. We discovered that the snorkeling gear was well-used; the masks leaked and it was difficult to find a pair of fins that fit well. I would recommend bringing your own snorkeling gear.

The sit-down kayaks provided are basic; unless you’re a die-hard kayaker, they serve their purpose. Windsurfers can be rented by the week through Sunsail’s affiliation with local rental shops; and can be stored on the bow of the boat. Our one-week windsurfer rental in Guadeloupe cost $230 euros ($294US).

Our charter began at 6 p.m. on a Sunday. In order for the trip to get off to a good start, it’s judicious for the entire crew to arrive at their given destination at least a day in advance. Arriving on the first official day of the charter is not realistic; it’s asking for problems that are avoidable.

If the slightest thing during your traveling day doesn’t go as planned –- such as a flight cancellation — you will have the other crew members and boat waiting while the clock is ticking. You don’t want to show up a day late and have the whole week’s itinerary disrupted, let alone a crew that will be more than slightly peeved.

On the same note, it’s prudent to book your departing flight for the day after the end of the charter. Our charter officially ended at 11 a.m. the following Sunday. Don’t push it and think that you’ll be able to make it to the airport for a 2 p.m. departure to San Juan. It’s unrealistic and unfair to the rest of the crew. Book a hotel for the night and depart the following day. This is not a time to skimp on a couple of nights at a hotel or resort.

Provisioning the Boat

Also, keep in mind that someone has to provision the boat. Sunsail offers to provision the boat, but it’s much more expensive than if you did it yourself. They will send a checklist of grocery items with marked-up prices. Unless money is of no concern, make the check marks and send it back to them.

However, by arriving a day early, you will have plenty of time to grocery shop at your leisure for exactly what you want. In our case, we rented a car, or Sunsail will call for a taxi. This is a group effort and it’s important that everyone is on the same page. If there are disagreements before getting on the boat, accept it as a red flag, because, believe me, it will all come to a head on the boat.

Last, but not least, the most important aspect of the trip is choosing people very carefully for the charter. I can’t stress this enough; it is paramount in order to have a fun and relaxing trip. For a solid week, you’ll be in close quarters with no escape. No pun intended, but if you’re not all on the same wavelength, your week in paradise will become stormy rather quickly.

For more information go to Sunsail.com.

  Susan Fogwell is a flight attendant for a major airline and a seasoned traveler. With the exception of Antarctica, she has traveled to every continent.

Three Queensland Islands in Oz: Lizard, Hamilton and Fitzroy

By Kent E St John

Islands are a strong pull for me, a strong enough pull to fly to the other side of the world from my home in the Hudson River Valley of New York.

The fabled Great Barrier Reef was a part of my decision but the chance to sample some of Queensland’s Islands sealed the deal.

I discovered three islands that were totally different from each other in every way but for the sheer delight they offer.

Queensland has always been a targeted place on my must-see list, and it didn’t disappoint. Flying by small planes offered unparallel vistas of ocean and reef. Snorkeling opened up my eyes while huge blue clams and bounties of tropical fish passed by as if I followed Alice into the rabbit hole, a wonderland indeed.

Queensland offerings are amazing and facts such as 1500 species of fish and 360 species of hard coral on paper may sound academic.

As one lucky enough to have visited, I assure you that Queensland will stir your heart and leave you with lifelong memories.

The World’s Best Job, Hamilton Island

Upon arrival on Hamilton Island I was given a tour of a very special villa, one that was once the home to the winner of the best travel marketing campaign ever launched.

To win, a one-minute video was submitted stating the reasons why the applicant would fit the bill as caretaker of the island. The response was enormous. The PR fallout was magical. The winner did his time and had a blast!

Hamilton Island is one of the most built-up islands of the many that dot the coast of Queensland, and commercial jets fly in. This is the island that fits if a bigger resort setting is what you are looking for.

Best on Hamilton are the many options for the type of stay you want, lux to high-rise to bungalow all at varying costs. Qualia is the super deluxe option and lives up to its title, private plunge pools anyone?

At Reef View Hotel my lodgings were spacious with wonderful views of the sea and island. Self catering bungalows are also available.

No matter what your lodgings, the island is open for all, and the fact that the island is part of the Whitsunday Islands is perfect for standard activities such as sailing, boarding or resort activities.

My favorite choice was the chance to get a seat on a charter seaplane that fit in a stop at the fantastic Whitehaven Beach, a bit like James Bond would do.

Bond, perhaps, would have passed on an early breakfast while hugging koalas but the restaurant choices in the village would have drawn him. A koala hug and it was time to head to Lizard Island.

Playing a Rich Robinson Crusoe, Lizard Island

Private props fly to Lizard Island, one of the finest hideaways in the world. In fact Hinterland Aviation only makes two flights a day for the 60-minute trip from Cairns.

My bungalow had a stacked fridge with anything needed by a desperado who just might be related to any Rockefeller. Is there anything better than lux done laid back?

Primitive can be stylish and on Lizard it is done well; put your wallet away, slip into your flips. The biggest decision is which of the 24 beaches I will need to check out in the morning.

For divers there’s the amazing Cod Hole, snorkeling the Horseshoe Reefs was fantastic and I was mesmerized by the giant Blue Clams just off of the island.

After a busy day of island options, meal time in the Osprey was a highlight. This is no all-inclusive buffet nightmare, this was chowing nirvana. The choices were all superb and local ingredients. Order a second dish, yes here it is acceptable.

After dinners meet the other guests in the bar, top-shelf choices with no bar bill. Not to worry — the next day can be spent just chilling, that’s what all the local lizards do.

Better yet, make an appointment at the Azure Spa, though to feel relaxed on Lizard it is more of an afterthought.

Home Away from Home, Fitzroy Island

It is new and was really under going a shake-down when I visited, but the Fitzroy Island Resort showed real promise. Of course when you are the only resort on a national park, the future looks bright.

The Gunghandji aboriginals from the mainland used to use Fitzroy as a place for spiritual retreat. The island’s future however looks like a great spot via a quick ferry ride from Cairns. Day trippers included.

The resort has all types of accommodations from hostel to apartment style. My well-appointed one bedroom had a complete kitchen and sitting area.

The washer and dryer made me feel that a few days here would be perfect place to rest during a long trip through out Queensland.

Water sports dominate the choices but a one-mile walk through rainforest to Nudey Beach is a must. The small white sand beach is a perfect put-in for a snorkel back to the resort along the coast.

Nude beaches are not common in Queensland and Nudey isn’t one. If your time is limited in Queensland, Fitzroy is a blend of all you might see in Queensland all wrapped up together.

And the Winner Is...

One of the best public relations launches I have ever witnessed was the ‘Best Job in the World’ one done by Queensland. Thousands of people from around the world entered 60-second videos to apply for the job.

The job is to spend six months based in a beautiful villa on Hamilton Island while exploring the rest of beautiful Queensland.

Blogs and accounts will be posted and the winner, Brit Ben Southall, will have his hands full.

Queensland has so much to explore. While I covered three islands, there are hundreds to see. Not to be missed are Queensland cities such as Cairns and Brisbane. In fact Queensland has jumped from my must-see list to the must-return one.

Queensland Tourism has a very comprehensive website to plan your own island explorations. The varied links will give you everything needed to plan sights, stays and natural wonders. Interesting facts also fill out the offerings.

My Three Island Visits:

While all offer the natural beauty and fine weather of Queensland, Hamilton, Lizard and Fitzroy are all different and unique. Each has its own style and attractions. Plan according to your lifestyle and wishes. Queensland has something for everyone.

Hamilton Island
Lizard Island
Fitzroy Island

Kent E. St John, GoNOMAD’s former Senior Travel Editor, circled the globe many times to report on exotic destinations. He was a correspondent for Around the World Radio which broadcasts in California and Australia. He frequently wrote for Travel International, MSNBC, Preview magazine, as well as several other media outlets. When he’s not traveling, he used to spend his time in Cottekill, New York, with his wife Lisa and his son Chance. He will always be missed by GoNOMAD!

Borocay Island, Philippines: Destination Guide

By Peta Bassett

WHERE
Off the large island of Panay in the Visayas, the main island group of the Philippines.

WHY GO

For a glorious stretch of white sand that is often shortlisted as one of the world’s most beautiful beaches. Fine white sand, great swimming and snorkeling and sunsets to die for — what more do you want in an island?

WHEN TO GO

March to May is the best, driest season.

GETTING THERE AND AROUND

By Air

Fly to Borocay via Kalibo or Caticlan from the Manila Domestic Airport.

Fly to Kalibo with Philippine Airlines, Cebu Pacific and Air Philippines. From Kalibo Airport you need to catch a bus (right outside the airport) to the pier in Caticlan (approx. 1.5 hours).

Pacific Air and Asian Spirit fly direct to the Caticlan Airport, which is a 15-minute drive from the pier. But be warned: these planes are smaller and the airfares are more expensive!

By Sea
The boat ride over to the island takes about 30 mins. Expect to get your feet wet when disembarking on Borocay.

Getting Around
On the island, you can rent a scooter from one of a number of rental outfit down on the White Beach promenade near the entry to the Talippapa Market.

BEST ATTRACTION

White Beach! Enough said.

Laurel Island can be reached by a 30-minute boat ride from the main island. The island features Crystal Cove Park, which has two caves for snorkeling, exploration and trekking.

Other popular activities include beach volleyball, motorbiking, mountain biking and windsurfing.

BEST UNUSUAL ATTRACTION
Head down to the markets. Catch the fish markets when the catch of the day is in. Seafood slithers and glistens on the concrete bench displays. Or stop into a tattoo parlor and get a tattoo; a real souvenir of beach paradise.

Or go to the Borocay Dive Lodge, which offers diving courses from beginning to master levels.

BEST ALTERNATIVE

A community cleanup operation has every resident on a rotating roster to assist in protecting the environment and the beach. Travelers are welcome to pitch in at any time.

BEST ACTIVITY OR TOUR

Diving in the warm waters off Boracay is easily arranged through the Party House Dive Center (Tel: (036) 288 3918) on White Beach.

Alternatively, arrange a day of snorkeling with a picnic lunch on an isolated strip of sand. Choose from and bargain with a number of beachfront outfits.

Or better still, bring your own champagne, grab some glasses and hire an outrigger for a romantic trip at sunset.

Find more intrepid tour options in Boracay.

BEST LODGINGS
Escape to the idyllic and private beach at Balinghai
Tel: (036) 288 3646
E-mail: otik@boracay.i-next.net

Stay in the Rock House or the Tree House nestled on the steep hillside. Pull back the mosquito net each morning and enjoy the magnificent views of the lime green water below. Tiny pathways lead to your first swim of the day!

There’s also the Bat House, the Hut, the Big House and the Hill House to choose from.

Prices range from US$25-95. Most definitely worth it. Book ahead.

Another option is a cottage at Cocomangas, located right next to Borocay Dive Lodge.

Find more ideas for unique accommodations in Boracay.

BEST EATS

If you don’t stay at Balinghai, at least dine there.

Sit on the beach and enjoy a late afternoon swim. Order a gin and tonic and some pre-dinner snacks, and your order will be delivered in a basket from the kitchen above via a pulley system! You may choose to stay on the beach and dine, but the clifftop restaurant also oozes ambience. Rent a scooter to get there or arrange a boat for the return trip from White Beach

Or try the Casa Pilar Restaurant, which offers Filipino and Continental Cuisine.

BEST SHOPPING

Don’t come here for shopping. The main markets are crammed with shell souvenirs and cheap beach wear. The best shopping is the food markets, overflowing with fresh produce and seafood. Plan to cook at least one of your meals with the local foods.

But, if you must shop for stuff, go to Talippapa Market, White Beach. Shell chimes, island style clothing, tattoos, colorful placemats, it’s all there.

BEST ENTERTAINMENT

Sunset on the beach. If you’re looking for nightlife, try Charl’s Bar on the White Beach. Dance on the bar with the owner of Summer Palace, White Beach. In general, don’t expect Bali-style parties or pick-ups, though. This place is pretty mellow.

HEALTH AND SAFETY

Use that sunscreen!!
Borocay Medical Service is open 24hrs. Tel: 288-3147.
Women should avoid walking alone late at night.

VISAS AND DOCUMENTS

Get a free visa on arrival in Manila for a 21-day stay. Make sure your passport is valid for at least 6 more months from when you intend to leave the country.

COMMUNICATIONS AND MONEY
Head to the Borocay Tourist Center, Manggayad, for communications needs and currency exchange. Carry US dollars as well as pesos. It is also possible to rent a safety deposit box here to store valuables.

The island also has a photo developing center, airline ticketing offices, banks and foreign exchange outlets.

Coral Bay, St. John USVI – A Snorkeling Paradise

By Terri Clemmons

St. John (not John’s) is “a whole ‘nother world” according to Kenny Chesney, a country singer, as described in one of his ballads. Some locals blame him for giving away the secret of the sublime island in the U.S. Virgin Islands.

With undeveloped beaches with postcard views in every direction, hiking trails for every fitness level, historic ruins, and laid back vibe or party atmosphere; there is something for everyone.

Our top reason to go is for the excellent shore snorkeling. No need to get on a boat, although you can take boozy cruises or guided tours if that is your thing. The pristine beaches offer nature’s best views.

No hotel strips here. But be warned, the trip to “The Rock”, as it is affectionately known, can be addictive. There are many travelers that return year after year, and it is easy to see why this small Caribbean island is a sun-and-sea lover’s favorite.

The Island

The island is mostly undeveloped because 60% of it is a national park, with rich history including sugar plantations, slavery rebellions, the Rockefellers, and the Oppenheimers.

There are two sides to the island, Cruz Bay and Coral Bay. Cruz is the island hub, where Coral is the laidback former fishing village.

There are two main roads on the island and it is easy to get from one bay to the other in 20 minutes. It is left side of the road driving, which you get used to pretty quickly.

The locals drive with more “gusto” than the tourists, so just pull over and let them pass. There are public transport open-air buses and taxis, but they do not go to all the beaches. We chose to rent a jeep to have access to the whole island.

The news of St. John is a blog about, strangely, the news of St. John, and offers an abundance of information including cruise ship days, events, and web-cam views.

A Hop, a Skip, and Ferry

There is no airport on St. John, so you fly into St. Thomas and take a 15-minute ferry ride into Cruz Bay. This extra step of taking a ferry might deter some, but that makes it less crowded for the rest of us.

It also means no cruise ships blocking your view, but ships docking at St. Thomas do take day trips to STJ.

There are no direct flights from Chicago, but there are from the east coast. We had a short layover in Puerto Rico before reaching Cyril E. King Airport. The second time we made sure to book a flight that arrived earlier, so we could avoid driving in the dark on your first day on the island.

The sun sets early because it is close to the equator, so check sunset times for your travel month. Allow time for jeep rental and grocery shopping too.

If you do end up arriving after 6:00 p.m. like we did, Courtesy Car Rental will give you a number to call for late arrival. Most rental companies do not, so check.

There are drivers lined up at the airport and a dispatcher will direct you. We asked for a direct ride to Red Hook to avoid stops at hotels along the way. We waited about five minutes while he got two other couples traveling to RH.

It took about 30 minutes to get to ferry on a Saturday afternoon. The cost was $15 per person and additional $2 per bag.

There are two ferries that run the 20-minute route back and forth from RH to St. John. They depart RH on the top of the hour. The 20-minute ride cost $28 including the cost of two big bags.

There is a newer ferry and an older one, and you can tell the difference. I tend to get motion sickness, but it was not a problem.

The Beaches

The north shore beaches are well known for their easy access to stellar shore snorkeling. Many are easily reached and others require hikes. Parking can be an issue if you arrive in the afternoon.

Honeymoon/Solomon requires a little more effort than walking across the street, but it is worth it. The Lind Point Trail from Cruz Bay leads to these beaches, but we parked at the Caneel Bay Resort. The walk from the parking lot is quite a jaunt, but it is clearly marked with signage.

You are given a parking ticket from the attendant when you enter, and if you spend the equivalent of the $20 fee at any of their facilities, the parking fee is waived

. You need to exchange your ticket for a different color when you make your purchase to show attendant on the way out. It is easy to spend $20 there, as it is the priciest resort on the island.

We chose to eat at the Beach Bar restaurant and the food was really good. We ordered appetizers that were generous enough for a meal. The resort has a reputation for being rather snooty, and we felt that from some of the guests when we were lugging our chairs down to the beach, but the staff was friendly and helpful.

Timing is essential here because of the chartered boats that stop offshore and dump a mass of finned humanity into the water. We got there by 8:30 am and had the beach to ourselves for a while. We snorkeled for two hours. This was one of our favorite reefs with colorful coral and diverse fish.

We saw an eel and turtles on the grassy area to the right of rocky outcrop on the left side of the beach (facing the ocean). The water was very calm and it felt very safe and protected from boaters.

The catamarans arrived about 10:30 a.m., and then again about 2:00 p.m. The second wave had three boats and it was snorkel chaos. It was hard to watch the lack of respect for the reef.

Elkhorn Coral and Glowworms

Hawksnest is known for the elkhorn coral, and it is impressive. Go early to snorkel the reef that is right off the beach without a crowd. When the crowds come, the quality diminishes considerably as the sand kicks up. The beach is narrow so it fills up quickly. Go to the far left to the shady nooks, which are also less populated.

A guidebook mentioned that if you are there three nights after the full moon, go to Hawksnest at dusk to see glowworms. When we went, there was only one other couple there, and it felt a little like a snipe hunt at first. Then the charter boat arrived off shore and you see the flashlights.

The idea is to flash your light into the water to attract the glowworms that come into this bay three nights after a full moon. Official sunset was 7:00, and by 8:00, it was truly dark, and we started to see the glowworms. It looked like fireflies in the ocean. Very cool.

We scooped up a handful and they were translucent worms about 3/4 of an inch…and they were everywhere! A little freaky since I was standing knee deep in worms.

Cinnamon Beach has excellent snorkeling on the far right along the rocks. We saw lots of fish and a nurse shark. Keep inside the buoys! There are shady nooks on the far right and is less populated as it is a little distance down the beach.

The cay is supposed to offer great snorkeling, but not on the day we were there.

Trunk Bay photographs like a dream, but the snorkeling trail is strictly for beginners. This is the only beach with a fee. The far side of the small cay is supposed to have better snorkeling, but we did not have any luck there.

Check the cruise ship schedule and avoid this beach on those days. Excursion groups flood the place.

Maho is like an aquarium on the right side. It was calm and shallow for a long distance, so it would be ideal for children or beginners. The beach is narrow and not much shade in the afternoon. Parking in right across the street, but limited.

Francis a Favorite Beach

Francis is our favorite beach. It is wide, shady beach with unique snorkeling experiences every time. There are always turtles in the grassy area. We saw stingrays, puffer, squid, but the highlight was the tarpon.

These silver giants glide in the water and their fins remind you of Jaws. There was a school of tarpon that were charging into a large ball of baitfish while we snorkeled.

They circled in and out of it for 20-30 minutes as we hovered above and to the side. As they swam in front of us, they would tilt to the side, causing the sun to reflect off their silver sides and flash us. Look for those bait balls and there will be big fish.

Waterlemon (not a typo) is the reason I will return someday. I never got to snorkel it. It is one of the best places to snorkel according to…everybody. I got sick, and could not do the one-mile hike that it requires.

I could barely drag my chair onto the beach at Hawksnest. I ended up having to go to the Myrah Keating Smith Community Health Center to get medicine.

It was island slow, but the doctor was kind and rather entertaining. I hope no one else has a coughing-up-a-lung woman sitting behind them on the flight to St. Thomas, but if you do, it is nice to know health care is available when you start coughing nonstop.

They accepted my BCBS insurance. The pharmacy at the market was pricey, even by island standards, for generic antibiotics, but it is the only game in town.

There are so many more beaches that it would take a book to detail them all. Coincidently, there are two books that are helpful for planning and navigating the island: St. John Feet, Fins and Four Wheel Drive by Pam Gaffin and St. John Off The Beaten Track by Gerald Singer.

Landlubbers

Hiking is a big attraction on the island with its dozens of trails. The Trail Bandit spent years mapping out known and unknown trails. A free map is available on his site trailbandit.org. The National Park Rangers give guided tours of Reef Bay Trail. This 4½ -mile round trip hike through the tropical forest includes a ruin site and petroglyphs from the Arawak Indians.

The trail is rocky with many roots. You need good shoes, not flips. The tour is very detailed, perhaps too detailed. However, the guided tour offers the perk of a boat ride back to Cruz Bay instead of hiking back out.

The Annenberg Sugar Plantation ruin is a popular site, and a self-guided tour offers a sobering look at the plantation system that once existed. Go early to get great pictures without someone else’s kids in the background. There are great views and interesting information along the trail.

The Moravian Church, constructed in 1750, sits on a hill in Coral Bay and is on the National Registry of Historic Places. They do not offer tours as this is an active church, but they do welcome visitors.

We attended and were welcomed with open arms, literally. The people on the island are generally very friendly, but there is a cultural expectation of a friendly greeting before conducting any business.

A simple “good day” is all it takes.

Coral Bay Eats

Caribbean Oasis is the best value on the island and the food is good to great! Each night is a different menu consisting of at least four entrees, prices ranging from $9-12. Check their Facebook page or website for daily menus. Carryouts are popular here.

The Triple B food truck parks in the Oasis parking lot in the morning. It has great coffee and outstanding baked good and breakfast sandwiches.

Aqua Bistro has a great view of the bay and always a nice breeze. The bar serves good frozen cocktails like the refreshing “Lime in De Coconut”. Sit at the bar to get the half price drinks from 4-6 pm.

Concordia Café has open mic night on Mondays. It was an enjoyable night of music at a beautiful location. Overpriced food, but the entertainment made it worth it. Go early. It is from 4:30-6:30. Ask about the half-priced drink specials.

Shipwreck Landing is a great spot with a view of the bay and nice breezes. Fish taco and conch fritters for lunch were very good. The only good dessert I had on the island was here. It was the caramel coconut cheesecake with chocolate ganache. Stellar! One caveat for the place: the seats are not comfortable.

Pickles in Paradise is open early. We discovered the “Trainwreck” sandwich late in the trip, but we got it several times to take to the beach anyway because it is so good. It is big enough to share and comes cut in half.

Four-Wheel Drive

If you plan to explore the island, and of course you are, then you must rent a Jeep. We’ve rented from Courtesy Car Rentals on both trips and had a good experience.

It’s not cheap, about $75 per day, but it’s a cheaper rate to rent by the week rather than the day.

If you are staying in Cruz Bay, you could rent a jeep for a few days to explore the more remote parts of the island, and take the buses the other days.

The four-wheel drive allows you to access some of the rougher roads, or even the “used to be a road” roads.   Talk to a local bartender to get the story on the lack of road maintenance, local politics, and all the latest in the resident intrigues.

There are plenty, from activist battles with big developers to beach access wars.

The two main roads are maintained, but there are many roads that have been left to crumble. Since it is left-side of the road driving, the worst part is when you get into your rental jeep for the first time, and try to navigate Cruz Bay side streets and turnarounds. Have a map and a plan before you put it into drive. The co-pilot position is no joke. But once you get the feel of the island, it is not difficult to get around at all. There are not enough roads to get lost.

Sleep

Coral Bay is the laid back side of the island where your sleep options are house rentals or “villas”. The housing is built into the sides of the rocky cliffs, which often afford wonderful views, but it also requires navigating tricky driveways. Always ask about the drive to the house. Some are truly villas, but you can rent anything from mansions to studio cottages.

Many have pools and other amenities. Look on vrbo.com where we booked to see the options. Both places we rented were accurately represented, but I did my due diligence to be sure. Most rentals provide beach chairs, beach towels, and coolers. Look at the list of provisions and pack lightly. Both sides of the island are casual, with the exception of a couple of upscale restaurants.

Coral Bay has plenty of shops and restaurants, some with live entertainment. There is no walking back to your villa, though. There might be some that say you could, but the roads are narrow and winding, and there are no designated sidewalks. I wouldn’t do it.

Cruz Bay is the main hub where the ferry docks, with shops and restaurants and nearby boutique hotels, condos, and inns. There are only a couple of big resorts on the island, the Westin and Caneel. There is also a campground at Cinnamon Bay and Concordia Eco-resort on the more remote east end.

Take

Pack lightly. Truly. The dress is casual. Shorts are fine. Flipflops are fine. You are in your swimsuit most of the day, so bring at least two. Water shoes are advisable for trail trekking. Leave room in your bag for more important things like reef-friendly sunscreen. Don’t be that red guy.

We back our own snorkel gear, but rentals are widely available. If you think you will snorkel every day, it would be worth buying your own. A gear backpack for snorkel equipment and a cooler backpack are beach essentials. The straps make it easy to lug the gear.

Food is expensive on the island. Everything is shipped in, thus the high price tag. We bring some things with us like peanut butter, protein and granola bars that don’t melt for the beach, tea bags, coffee, and a box of cereal. When we get our rental jeep, our first stop is the Starfish Market grocery store. Water is not usually potable, so buy plenty of water.

For two weeks, we bought two cases water and two gallons of water for making iced tea.

There is a spirits store next to the market, and Sam and Jack’s deli is on the level above the grocery where we pick up a sandwich to take for dinner on the first night. Once you load the groceries, call your property manager, and arrange the meeting place to go to your rental house.

Unpack the essentials, head to your balcony with the fabulous view, pop a top, and start your dream vacation.

Terri Clemmons, right, is an elementary teacher of gifted students in Illinois who uses her summers wisely for travel experiences.

By Larry Taylor

There is no doubt about it – the best snorkeling and diving in the world is in Raja Ampat.

This west Indonesian archipelago contains more marine bio-diversity than anywhere else in the world – more fish, more corals.

In 2002, The Nature Conservancy conducted a scientific survey of the Raja Ampat Islands to collect information on its marine ecosystems, mangroves and forests. The survey brought Raja Ampat’s total number of confirmed corals to 537 species —  an incredible 75 percent of all known coral species.

In addition, an amazing 1,074 fish species were found. (One source has recently upped that to nearly 1,300.)

My wife and I have snorkeled all around the globe. Previously, we thought the best was in Palau. Raja Ampat, we decided, was even better.

One of the reasons is the area’s isolation. During our 10-day boat, live-aboard, trip, we saw no other tourists – no divers, no snorkelers, no anybody. The only other humans seen were natives in the few villages.

Located off the northwest tip of the island of New Guinea, Raja Ampat (translated, Four Kings) is an archipelago comprising over 1,500 small islands, cays and shoals surrounding the four main islands of Misool, Salawati, Batanta and Waigeo.

Most islands are limestone, pock-marked with caves and undercut with wave action. Some are volcanic. All are covered with green growth and small trees and are part of the newly named West Papua province of Indonesia.

On the Shakti Boat

We went there in late May on a Wilderness Travel snorkeling expedition. With 11 in our group, we stayed aboard the Shakti, a double-masted traditional Indonesian craft. It is 36 yards long and 8 yards wide.

Our room, though cramped, was comfortable. Captain and builder is Scotsman David Pagliari, raised in Hong Kong, who maintains a crew of seven.

Most important, our guide was Ethan Daniels, a marine biologist. He is an expert on the flora and fauna of the area and has led several expeditions to Raja Ampat.

During cocktail hour on top deck, he would gather us daily for a lecture on the marine life and geography of the places we would visit, with slides to illustrate his talks. During our snorkels when something was spotted, he wold make sure everyone had seen it.

Our routine was two morning snorkels and three afternoon. This was supplemented by hikes –  hiking up to vistas, exploring caves, bird watching. First snorkel was around 8:30. So we got up early, seeing brilliant red sunrises, before breakfast at 7.

In the Water Snorkeling

Boarding a dinghy, we were taken to spots with colorful descriptive names – Zen Coral Garden West, Monitor Lizard Beach, Guitar Island. We snorkeled along walls with every imaginable type coral and fish.

In deeper water, we would see large bump-head parrot fish go by in schools and solitary black-tip reef sharks. One memorable sight – a school of hundreds of bait fish glided by with several two-foot, yellow and black-spotted oriental sweetlips swimming under them,  probably trying to grab a snack.

On shallow reefs, we would see incredible coral gardens below us. Huge plate corals and sweeping soft corals were among every possible kind in greater abundance and colors than we had ever seen. Living among them were yellow, orange and purple sponges. Like eager students,  we were able to identify them from Ethan’s lectures.

There were several types anemone on the reef; each had its anemone fish, commonly called clown fish. Mostly orange with white stripes, here we also saw brown with blue stripes and  pink anemone fish with a stripe down the back.

Going With the Flow

At times we would take drift dives. Our dinghy would let us off at the beginning of a tidal passage, and the swift water would carry us through – an amusement park ride in the midst of an aquarium. We just let ourselves go with the flow.

A couple times we entered strange worlds – mangrove swamps where cardinal fish lurked in tangled roots, and tiny shrimp dug holes on sandy bottoms while goby fish (their roommates) stood watch for predators.

In one grove, we took off fins and stealthily walked through the shallows to a deserted beach. Close to shore was a “nursery” for baby stingrays and reef sharks. Disturbed, the  babies fled at our approach. One ray nearly bumped into my shocked wife’s leg.

While leaving the grove, we spotted the shaggy woebbegong shark under a ledge. It looked more like  “Cookie Monster” than a fish.

Adventures and Revelations

Each day brought more surprising adventures. None more so than the day we took our “field trip” to the pearl farm on Waigeo Island. The tour was most interesting as we saw how oysters were seeded and shucked for pearls.

This was also our only shopping stop with pearl jewelry on display at the end of the tour. A plus here – our boat was given a bag of oyster meat, a delicious treat for dinner.

Following the tour came one of our trip highlights – snorkeling off the dock in front of the farm. No dazzling coral here. It was rocky reefs and sandy bottoms but amazing creatures to behold.

Without our guides, we would have swum past most of them. The cuttle fish, for example, takes on the color of its surroundings. Its skin even becomes spiky to mimic jagged surfaces. The craggy scorpion and stone fish are difficult to detect.

The spotted epaulet shark was here, its coloring, too, blending amazingly with the background. When startled, it walked away on two lower fins, as it uniquely does.

Particularly good at spotting was our Indonesian guide from the Shakti, Robert Lahenko. For example, he would dive and, coming up, would say “crocodile fish.” We would shrug, saying, “Where?” He would go down again and trace its outline with his fingers. And, “Voila!” There it was.

After everyone saw it, he would sometimes nudge it, letting us see it slithering away. He, along with Daniels, is what made this trip so rewarding.

Something new to us, but readily seen here were beautiful nudibranches. Diver friends have gone deep to see them, but here they were in shallow waters. Mollusks without shells, these are sometimes called sea snails. We were constantly on the lookout for theme – one- to two-inch creatures, decorated in all ranges of  blues, oranges, yellows, reds

Snacks and Meals

When we came in from our afternoon snorkel, we had delicious fresh-from-the-galley baked goods: cinnamon rolls, apple cake, cookies, all  made from German recipes of first mate Diana “Din” Himmelspach. Conversant in English and the local Indonesian dialect as well as German, Din translated directions to the crew and cooks.

Shakti had two Indonesian cooks who prepared local foods. While the curry-like dishes were tasty and hearty, they did get a bit monotonous.  Lunch and dinner always consisted of white rice, a vegetable, meat and fish or shellfish. All were sauce-based with ginger and local spices. Dessert was fresh fruit.

Breakfast consisted of  crepes and/or eggs and freshly baked bread.  A few times corn flakes were a welcome option. A cooler on deck was open 24 hours a day and was filled with local beer, juices and soft drinks.

Our next-to-last day, we anchored off South Gam Island which is home for the spectacular Red Bird of Paradise.

We went ashore for a short hike to a “bird blind,” erected by islanders to view the birds above. We heard their calls, and there they were, high in the tree tops. Silhouetted against the sun, the birds were difficult to photograph. But we saw them go through their mating display.

Villagers we met were living much the same way they always had. We could hear the whir of a generator, however, and saw a TV satellite dish on top of a meeting hall.

The people were very friendly, especially the children. Some in our group joined in a pickup soccer game on the field in the middle of the village. This was our introduction back into civilization before we headed home the next day.

Tired but happy, we were definitely ready to stretch out in a full-size bed and luxuriate in our large bedroom.

Wilderness Travel schedules eight trips a year to Raja Ampat – four in late spring; four in late fall. For information: (800) 368- 2794, email.

Prices start at $5195, excluding airfare to Jakarta.

To arrange a trip on the boat independently go to shakti-raja-ampat.com

Larry Taylor retired from instructing college journalism after over 20 years. He came to teaching after 15 years in the newspaper business, working for Ridder/Johns Newspapers. After retiring, he has done much traveling and writing about it. He also reviews plays and musical presentations for a local newspaper and online magazines. His wife Gail works as a fundraiser and photographer. She takes photos for his stories.

By Mary Govoni

There’s been a lot of environmental coverage in recent years about the frightening status of Australia’s Great Barrier Reef.

Scientists and journalists alike are determined to spread the word that climate change is having devastating effects on the coral and the ecosystem as a whole.

I’ve read headlines as drastic as: “Large Sections of Great Barrier Reef Now Dead” and “GBR is Literally in Hot Water”.

And because visiting the Great Barrier Reef and experiencing this underwater world has been on my bucket list since pre-Finding Nemo days, I knew it’s something I needed to see before it was too late.

I recently visited Cape Tribulation to experience Australian wildlife in its truest and most genuine form.

Not only was I incredibly awestruck by the Great Barrier Reef, but I fell in love with the freshwater pools, the strange and dangerous birds, and the second largest rainforest in the world.

A Quick Australian Geography Lesson

Cape Tribulation is a remote headland located in Queensland, Australia about a two hour drive north from Cairns and an hour north of Port Douglas. It’s an up-and-coming ecotourism destination for both Australian and international travelers, advertised as the place, “where the rainforest meets the sea”.

It currently boasts an unmatched lush and beachy authenticity, and isn’t overcrowded by the masses. In order to get to Cape Tribulation, you and your vehicle must cross the river via ferry.

Wi-Fi is nearly nonexistent and dining options are quite limited. However, accommodation is not. Most places offer cottages or huts, tucked into the rainforest or alongside the shores of the beaches.

I stayed at the Daintree Crocodylus, an environmentally-friendly ecoresort, in a cabin with nothing but a bed and a mosquito net to cover it.

You’re almost guaranteed to see tiny frogs or spiders the size of a baseball as you walk between cabins to the bathroom, the pool area, or the reception. You truly get to know the Daintree Rainforest as you fall asleep amidst the rain, the bugs, and the hot, humid air.

Snorkeling on the Great Barrier Reef

Ocean Safari is Cape Tribulation’s leading Great Barrier Reef tour group offering two-hour excursions twice daily at a very reasonable price.

I had an 8:00 am departure time on what turned out to be the perfect day to see the reef.

After shimmying my way into my wetsuit (which you’re only required to wear during “stinger season”), we met the boat on the shore and headed out towards the reef.

Our trip out to the reef was minorly delayed when we saw a pod of bottlenose dolphins and stopped to watch them.

But as we carried on, we got about 20 kilometers off shore and pulled up to our first snorkeling spot. The visibility in the water was like glass — as soon as the boat stopped you could look over the edge and see an array of different coral clusters as well as the stingrays and schools of fish that inhabit them.

After a brief snorkeling instruction session, you’re handed your snorkels and told to get out there. I’ve seen plenty of coral reef photos and I’ve been to a number of aquariums, but experiencing the sight of a coral reef for the first time is unlike anything else.

It truly is an insurmountable beauty. At both reef sites, Mackay and Undine, you can explore the waters freely, get up close and personal with sea turtles, and spot more species of fish than you can count.

Because Cape Tribulation is in the Northern reef, and much more secluded than other parts, evidence of coral bleaching is far less noticeable.

The colors remain vibrant and the reefs are full of life. But to see the beauty of these reefs and to know that they are a dying ecosystem is a reality that is devastating.

It is a sight that I think everyone should experience at least once in their lives, and I hope that it’s possible for generations to come.

I left with a newfound urge to make environmentally-conscious decisions, regardless of how small they are or how far away the reef might seem.

On the ride back towards the shore, I spoke with one of the guides, a young Australian man, native to Melbourne.

He had moved up to Cape Tribulation to work in the growing ecotourism industry and couldn’t believe how perfect the weather we had that morning was for snorkeling on the reefs.

As he joked about working an office job in Melbourne, he said: “I find myself complaining after a long day at work sometimes, and then have to remind myself ‘I go to work everyday on the Great Barrier Reef, a place on a lot of people’s’ bucket lists’, I don’t exactly have the right to complain about my office.”

And I couldn’t have agreed with him more.

Cassowary Crossing & Crocodile Warnings

Aside from the breathtaking views of the Great Barrier Reef, there are things that you can experience only in the Daintree. I had never heard of a cassowary before, and until I saw countless “Cassowary Crossing” signs on the roads, I never would have known to be on the lookout for them.

A cassowary is best described as a mix between an ostrich and a turkey. It’s large and it’s beautiful but also very dangerous. I left Cape Tribulation having seen four of these strange looking birds while driving down dirt roads and wondering if I’d ever see one anywhere else in the world.

And the birds aren’t the only thing that can kill you out there — the beaches are home to saltwater crocodiles and deadly stingers so swimming in the saltwater is nearly impossible.

But with the amount of freshwater swimming pools available, I wasn’t worried about finding a place to escape the heat.

Emmagen Creek and Mason Creek are stops you cannot miss. But make sure you hold onto a paper map, because it’s easy to accidentally make your way off the path and end up somewhere in the rainforest.

Before I went to Cape Tribulation I had no idea what to expect and it was certainly an experience unlike any other.

If Australia is on your bucket list, I urge you to include Cape Trib on your itinerary. Spend a few days up here to truly experience what life is like in a place where the rainforest meets the sea.

Kinmen Island, Penghu Archipelago, Matsu Archipelago, Orchid Island, Green Island

By Peta Bassett

WHERE

Several islands off the coast of Taiwan, already an island off the southeast coast of China far from Taiwan but not part of China.

WHY GO?

Mention a beach holiday in Asia and typical destinations that roll off the tongue include Bali and Phuket. Taiwan? Not likely. Synonymous with earthquakes, PC manufacturers and "word/ war games" with mainland

China, it hardly rates in the world of glossy, well-packaged island getaways.

But who needs pseudo Five-star resorts, vendors hassling you for a massage every time you set foot on the sand, and other tourists everywhere? These islands off Taiwan offer a perfect alternative to the more popular destinations in Asia.

WHEN TO GO

Try June or September to avoid the masses of domestic tourists, but to still get warm weather. Check the news, there have been frequent flare-ups of tension between Taiwan and China so you might not want to go if things are tense.

GETTING THERE AND AROUND

Fly from the mainland to all of the islands. Carry your passport. It is needed as ID even for domestic air travel.

EVA Air: Tel: (02)-2501-1088 (Best choice!)

TransAsia Airlines: Tel: 080-066880

Uni Air: Tel: (02)-2515-5166

BEST SHOPPING

Sorry to disappoint, but dried seafood, local liquor and cheap trinkets are the main souvenirs on all of the islands. Save your money for Taipei and enjoy the scenery.

BEST ENTERTAINMENT

Don't expect a Full Moon Party on any of these islands. You have to make your own entertainment. The locals will no doubt approach you as the number of foreign tourists are minimal. Invites to dine in people's homes are not unusual.

This may be one of the most laid back, but rewarding, holidays that you will ever have. VISAS AND DOCUMENTS

Check with the nearest Taiwanese consul for visa requirements. Make sure your passport is valid for at least 6 months fr

om when you intend to leave the country.

HEALTH AND SAFETY

Taiwan is a relatively hassle free country to travel in health wise. Hepatitis A and B as well as tetanus injections are recommended and drink bottled water.

MONEY AND COMMUNICATIONS

ATMs are widespread in Taiwan but carry cash to some of the more remote islands. Purchase a few domestic Taiwanese phonecards to make onward arrangements via phone.

RESOURCES

tbroc.gov.tw
Official Government Tourism site

sinica.edu.tw/tit/index.html
links and info on culture, arts, travel, and more.

Islands in the Taiwan Strait:

Kinmen Island

WHERE

In the middle of the action between Taiwan and China (just 2 km off the coast of mainland to be precise).
WHY GO?

To see how 45 years of martial law and a heavy military presence has transformed a once barren, sandy island into a heavily forested national park. With wide roads, little air pollution and seemingly endless avenues of trees, it is easy to get lost in the beauty of this potential war zone. Don’t worry -- visitors are welcome and you are in no danger.

BEST MAJOR ATTRACTION

Mashan Observatory in the Kinsha District.
Take Bus no. 32. Leave your passport at the guard box (a requirement, not a suggestion) and follow the dimly lit tunnels to an observation deck where you can peer through binoculars at the enemy! It’s all very calm these days with fishing boats bobbing in the waters and the growing urban sprawl of a mainland Chinese town visible in the distance.
BEST UNUSUAL ATTRACTION

Take a glimpse into a bygone era at the abandoned mansions in the Shuitou area. No doubt glorious in their heyday, they were reportedly built by wealthy folk who returned home after making their fortunes overseas.

BEST ACTIVITY OR TOUR

Rent a moped in the capital, Kincheng, from Laiwang Motorcycle Rental (92 Mintsu Rd.,Kincheng) and tour at your own pace. The traffic is fairly tame.

BEST LODGINGS

Hotels on this island are quite generic.

The Six Brother Hotel
164 Chukuan Rd.
Tel. (0623)-24311
Clean and comfortable and centrally located in Kincheng. Rooms range from NT$1200-1400.

BEST EATS

For breakfast snacks head down to the market in Kincheng and sample fried bread twists. Return to the same street later in the day if you crave something Western.

Lantis
118 Mintsu Rd, Kincheng

NOTE

Swimming is possible but not great on Hsibien Beach. Of interest though is the sunset at low tide. Masses of anti-amphibian craft spikes to repel the enemy are visible (not in the swimming section). This is an island holiday with a difference. Palm trees and pina coladas are not the go here.

Penghu Archipelago

WHERE

Formerly known as the Pescadores (Fishermen’s Islands) to the Portugese, the Penghu archipelago consists of 64 islands in total in the Taiwan Strait.

WHY GO?

Don’t expect Internet cafes, beach bungalows or Full Moon parties, but look forward to a dramatic landscape that is windswept and barren in winter and a sun lover’s paradise in summer.

On the main island of Penghu, coral windbreaks crisscross the landscape with many traditional Hokkien-style homes lying deserted as their former occupants have moved to the mainland in search of work or opted for a more modern alternative. There is a lot to explore.
BEST MAJOR ATTRACTION

With 63 other islands to choose from, deciding on a day trip may be a little difficult. It is possible to rent a boat and cruise at your own pace (enquire at the major hotels about arranging this), but take a ferry to the Chipei Island if you want to relax on a stunning stretch of golden sand.

Note: the lifeguards are a little too keen to show off their militant Baywatch skills! All swimmers are made to wear buoyancy vests and the bathing area is restricted to their whistle blowing range!

Ferries leave from Chihkan Pier, Paisha Island (which is connected by bridge to Penghu).

BEST UNUSUAL ATTRACTION

Stroll around the quaint capital, Makung, and explore the many tiny alleyways. It is reportedly home to the oldest temple in Taiwan. Approx. 376 years old, Matsu Temple is dedicated to the goddess of the seas and is well worth a visit, even if it is just to catch a glimpse of the fortune vending machine within!

BEST ACTIVITY AND TOUR

A rented scooter is the key to exploring the many tiny villages, sidetracking along the way to visit idyllic, isolated beaches.

Try the rental shop on the corner of Chungcheng and Chungshan Rd, opposite the Pao Hua Hotel.

BEST LODGINGS

The Penghu Youth Activity Center
11 Chiehshou Rd, Makung
Tel: (0692)-71124

One of the more interest

BEST LODGINGS ing places to stay. A terrace café overlooking the foreshore is a great spot for a nightcap. Private double rooms on the top floor (NT$1400) with a sloping ceiling have an attic feel about them, while cheaper dorm rooms (NT$2500 for groups of 10) are available. Book ahead in summer though. It is popular and there will be kids!

BEST EATS

Seafood is, of course, a must. Outdoor dining by the fish market at the end of Sanmin Rd. is also a must. Order by checking out what your fellow diners are eating and indicate your preference.

Matsu Archipelago

WHERE

In the Taiwan Strait

WHY GO

Because not many other people do!

BEST ATTRACTION

Visit the Chinsha Scenic area and stroll around an uninhabited but well-preserved village.

BEST UNUSUAL ATTRACTION

Have a swig at the Matsu Distillery, Fuhsing Village. The tour is in Chinese, but those who don’t speak the language can look forward to a sip of the brew, kaoliang, at the end.

BEST ACTIVITY AND TOUR

Pishan, the highest peak on the mountainous island of Peikan, offers great views and is an energetic hike. An easier route to the top is by car, but be warned: the road is steep.

Stay on the island of Nankan, simply because there is more in the way of accommodation and food. Venture to nearby Peikan as a side trip.

Stay in Jen Ai Village, Nankan, which is close to the most beautiful beach in the archipelago.

The Lianjiang Hostel
Tel: (0836)-22431
Both singles and doubles from NT$500-1500.

BEST EATS

Head into Chiehshou Village and wander to see what takes your fancy.

Orchid Island

WHERE

A 37 km diameter island off the East Coast of Taiwan

WHY GO

An impressive landing descends along the volcanic coastline of this tiny island with spear fishermen visible in the azure waters below. Exploring the natural beauty and the small Yami aboriginal villages make this destination an ideal weekend or day trip from the mainland.

BEST MAJOR ATTRACTION

Without a doubt, Yenyin Village, on the northeast side of the island, is the most interesting to visit. The traditional underground abodes are built to withstand the many typhoons that batter the area. Some elders still wear the traditional loincloths.

BEST UNUSUAL ATTRACTION

Hike to Lanyu Pond, a tiny lake in mountains on the south of the island. It is quite a strenuous hike.

BEST ACTIVITY OR TOUR

Rent a scooter and circumnavigate the island. Rentals are available from Orchid Island Leisure Hotel (Tel: +886-897-32032) and the Lanyu Villa Hotel (Phone: +886-897-32111).
Approx. NT$500/ day.

BEST LODGINGS

There is a limited selection of hotels, but staying with in a family run guesthouse is a great alternative. Camping on the beach is allowed.

Stay at the only inn in Yenyin Village.
Tel: (0897)-32175.

BEST EATS

Both hotels have restaurants, but eating a wholesome bowl of noodles from a village restaurant is a fantastic alternative. For drinks, try the Jiu Bar in Yujen Village. The Taiwanese surfer dude owner has spent some time in Bali.

Green Islan

WHERE

Off the East Coast of Taiwan

WHY GO?

Visit for a daytrip or stay over to take a dip in the hot springs, inspect the catch of the day at the harbor in Nanliaou or climb the extinct volcano, Huoshaoshan.

BEST MAJOR ATTRACTION

Head to jail: a popular attraction is one of the 3 prisons on Green Island. The Green Island Lodge (yes, that’s the name) is where most of Taiwan’s political prisoners were held. You can only view it from the outside. The other 2 prisons on the island are still operational and off limits

BEST UNUSUAL ATTRACTION

Bathe in the Chaojih Hot Spring overlooking a rocky beach.

BEST ACTIVITY OR TOUR

Many come for the diving, but a trip around the island to view the volcanic coastline is also worth it.

Tony’s Diving Club in Naliao
Tel: (0896)-72899

BEST LODGINGS

Camp. Bring your own tent (sites start at NT$200) or rent one for NT$200. Bookings need to be made at the tourist office near the airport, Tel: (0896)-72027.

The campground is located near Taipaisha Beach -- good for snorkeling and there are caves to explore around the nearby coast.

BEST EATS

Pack a picnic and head to the lighthouse on the far northwest tip of the island. Still operational, it provides an atmospheric backdrop to a late night feast. Remember your pocketknife!

Panama Beyond the Canal

By John Mitchell

After the United States invaded Panama in 1989 and carted its
drug-dealing dictator Manuel Noriega off to a Florida jail, this troubled Central American nation all but disappeared from the travel map.

Panama languished in a tourism vacuum while armies of eco-tourists overran neighboring Costa Rica. Only recently has Panama returned to the spotlight, when the U.S. officially handed over complete control of the Panama Canal on December 31, 1999.

American president, Jimmy Carter, and Panamanian leader, General Omar Torrijos, signed treaties in 1977 that would pass ownership of the US-occupied Canal Zone and the canal over to Panama by the end of the millennium.

This important event has triggered a renewed interest in the other Panama that lies beyond the canal: a land rich in protected forests and exotic wildlife, with thriving indigenous cultures, uncrowded tropical hideaways, and plenty of history to explore.

Panama City

Panama City, an international business center and the most cosmopolitan metropolis in Central America, makes an excellent base for exploring much of the country. A forest of mirrored skyscrapers bearing the logos of Panamanian and foreign banks marks the city’s financial district, and pencil-thin condominium towers, home to the conspicuously wealthy, rise from Punta Paitilla on the shores of Panama Bay.

Stores in the capital’s busy commercial districts overflow with jewelry, clothing, electronic gadgets and other consumer goods transported through the Panama Canal.

The city’s international restaurants and vibrant nightlife also reflect Panama’s location at "the crossroads of the world." But venture further from the capital and you’ll discover a natural paradise, filled with activities and attractions that should put Panama on the eco-tourism map.

The conquistadors founded Panama in 1519 and it soon became an important jewel in the Spanish crown. Gold from Peru and Spain’s other Pacific colonies was hauled from what is now Panama City across the isthmus to the Caribbean. These riches lured pirates such as Sir Henry Morgan, who sacked the city in 1671.

Panama Viejo

The ruins of Panama Viejo or "Old Panama" can be visited today. A lonely cathedral spire surrounded by the crumbling arches, pillars, and walls are all that remains of this once grand Spanish colony. The city was rebuilt three years later on a peninsula five miles (8 km) to the southwest.

This area, now known as Casco Viejo, is one of Panama City’s most historic neighborhoods. Along its narrow streets, rundown tenaments rub cornices with old Spanish churches, ruined convents, and handsome 19th-century buildings constructed by the French during their failed attempt to dig the Panama Canal from 1878-1889.

One of the first things most visitors to Panama City do is head for Miraflores Locks, only 30 minutes from downtown, where viewing platform overlooking the locks allow them to get up-close and personal with ships passing through the Panama Canal.

Miraflores Locks border Soberania National Park, a 55,000-acre (22,104 ha) nature reserve with virgin rainforest abounding in flora and fauna. Another popular destination is the Sunday market in El Valle, a sleepy town cupped in the crater of an extinct volcano west of Panama City.

El Valle springs to life on weekends as Guaymí Indians and other country folk come to market with handicrafts and produce. Kuna Indians from the San Blas Islands off Panama’s Caribbean coast often sell their vibrant molas at El Valle. These hand-stitched, reverse appliqué panels can depict anything from traditional Kuna religious symbols to Mickey Mouse and are a familiar sight throughout Panama.

The picturesque mountain town of Boquete in Chiriquí, Panama’s westernmost province, appeals to hikers and birders. Many come in pursuit of the elusive Quetzal, which can be more easily seen here than in other parts of Central America.

Bocas del Toro

Bocas del Toro on the other side of the mountainous Continental Divide is fast becoming Panama’s hottest Caribbean hideaway. Weathered architectural relics built in the early 1900’s line Bocas Town’s main street, lending it an air of faded romance. Enterprising foreigners have turned many of these decaying wooden structures into funky restaurants and pensions. They cater to increasing numbers of adventurous travelers who come to soak up the tropical ambiance and explore pristine beaches and coral reefs.

MAJOR ATTRACTIONS

Most of Panama’s major attractions are in Panama City or within easy reach of the capital.

• Panama Viejo (Old Panama)
  The crumbling ruins of what was once the largest Spanish settlement on the Pacific Coast can be visited anytime. The National Artisans Market next to the ruins is open 9 am to 6 pm daily. An on-site museum is open weekdays from 9 am to 4 pm (closes at 1 pm on Sunday). Admission is US$1.00. Panama Viejo stands on the eastern edge of Panama City

• Casco Viejo
  Panama City’s most historic neighborhood is located on a peninsula west of the city center. Somewhat seedy, but has many fine old Spanish and French colonial buildings, a sea wall walk, plus several museums. Plaza de Francia, dedicated to workers who died building the Panama Canal, contains busts of canal pioneers and stone tablets recounting the waterway’s construction.

• Panama Canal Museum (Museo del Canal Interoceánico)
  This spanking new museum facing the Plaza Central in Casco Viejo occupies a beautifully refurbished building used by the French as their canal-building headquarters until 1903. Artifacts, photographs, and videos trace the canal area’s history from pre-Columbian times to the present. Hours are Tuesday to Sunday 9:30 am to 5:30 pm. Admission is US$2.

• The Panama Canal
  The best place to watch ships passing through the Panama Canal is at Miraflores Locks, where there is a viewing platform and visitors center. The locks can be reached by public bus or taxi from Panama City. Hours are 9 am to 5 pm daily. Admission is free. Boat tours of the canal may be booked through travel agencies in Panama City (see Touring below).

• Summit Botanical Gardens and Zoo
  Located six miles (10 km) past the Miraflores Locks, these gardens contain 15,000 plant species and extensive nature trails. The zoo’s main attraction is its large Harpy Eagle Compound. The endangered Harpy Eagle is Panama’s national bird. Hours are 8 am to 4 pm on week days and 8 am to 6 pm on weekends. Admission is US$0.25

• Parque Nacional Soberania
  This huge park bordering the Panama Canal is one of the most accessible rainforest areas in Panama. It has several hiking trails, including the 11-mile Camino del Oleoducto (Pipeline Road), which attracts bird-watchers from around the world. May be visited anytime. Admission is free

• Portobelo
  An easy-going town on a beautiful Caribbean bay 62 miles from Panama City, Portobelo’s claim to fame is its well-preserved 18th-century forts built by the Spanish to protect their booty from pirates. There is also a museum (open Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 5 pm) in the restored Casa de la Aduana (Customs House). Portobelo is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

• Marine Exhibitions Center (Centro de Exhibiciones Marinas)
  On an island called Isla Naos, connected to Panama City by a causeway. Operated by the Smithsonian Institute, this center has a museum with marine exhibits, two aquariums, and a nature trail through a small forest harboring sloths and iguanas. Open Tuesday to Friday 1 pm to 5 pm, Saturday and Sunday 10 am to 5 pm. Admission is US$0.50.

• Isla Taboga
  Only a one-hour ferry ride from Panama City, this small island boasts fine swimming beaches, gardens, and nature trails. It gets crowded on weekends. Ferries leave from Pier 18 in Balboa. Fare is about US$7.50.

• El Valle
  A picturesque mountain town 77 miles (124 km) west of Panama City famous for its Sunday market (see Shopping below), gardens, nature walks, and pre-Columbian petroglyphs. El Valles’s cool temperatures make it a favorite weekend retreat for wealthy Panama City dwellers.

• Archipiélago de San Blas
  Coconuts are still used as a form of currency throughout this archipelago of some 350 idyllic islands off Panama’s Caribbean coast. The San Blas Islands are home to the Kuna Indians, an independent people who retain many of their traditions. Kuna women wear colorful mola blouses, nose rings, along with forearm and ankle bracelets. The islands can be reached on a short airplane ride from Panama City.

• Boquete
  This misty coffee-producing town in Chiriquí Province, about 300 miles (473 km) west of Panama City, is known for its flower gardens and gorgeous mountain scenery. Boquete is the most popular starting point for treks to the summit of Volcán Barú, Panama’s highest peak, and the 5-mile-long (8 km) Quetzal Trail (Sendero Los Quetzales).

• Archipielago de Bocas del Toro
  A chain of islands and coral reefs skirting Panama’s isolated northwestern coast, their name -- which means "Mouths of the Bull" -- was reportedly bestowed by Christopher Columbus in 1502. The famous explorer is said to have spotted a waterfall shaped like a bull’s mouth on one of the islands. Bocas del Toro town (Bocas Town) on Isla Colón is an up-and-coming destination among snorkelers, divers, surfers, and those seeking a laid-back Caribbean hideaway.

UNUSUAL ATTRACTIONS

• Mi Pueblito
  A full-size replica of a rural Panamanian village is the last thing you would expect to find in gritty Panama City. Mi Pueblito (My Little Town) has a pretty main square, a colonial church, a museum, stores, and a restaurant. Located in Ancon on the west side of town. Open from 11:30 am to 11:30 pm, Tuesday to Saturday and 10 am to 10 pm Sunday. Free admission.

• Parque Natural Metropolitano
  This 655-acre wilderness park lies totally within the limits of Panama City. Parque Metropolitano has nature trails and more than 250 species of birds and 40 types of mammals. This park is also the site of a tropical research center and a towering crane used to study the forest canopy. The visitors’ center is open 8 am to 4 pm daily. Admission is $0.50.

• Isla Barro Colorado
  Barro Colorado Island in the middle of man-made Gatún Lake was formed when vast areas of Panama were flooded during the building of the Panama Canal. Because of its isolation, the island teems with plants and animals and has become an outdoor laboratory for tropical research scientists. Barro Colorado can be visited on small-group tours given by the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute. Tel: 507-227-6021/6022 in Panama City for information. Cost is about US$30. See Touring below for other options.

• Canopy Tower
  An abandoned radar tower--once used to track down drug smugglers’ aircraft--in Soberania National Park has been turned into a one-of-a-kind eco-lodge and nature observatory popular with bird-watchers. The owner, Raúl Arias de Para, offers both day trips and overnight stays. Tel: 507-264-5720 or 612-9176 in Panama City. E-mail: stay@canopytower.com, canopytower.com. (For more on the Canopy Tower, see the BEST PERCH IN PANAMA)

• Canopy Adventure
  Designed to bring out the Tarzan in even the most timid traveler, this network of cables, pulleys, and harnesses takes visitors on an exciting ride through the rainforest canopy. The Canopy Adventure is in El Valle near Chorro el Macho, a 195-foot-high (60 m) waterfall. Tel: 507-264-5720 or 612-9176 in Panama City.

• Parque Nacional Darién
  Parts of Panama’s largest national park, an almost impenetrable wilderness between Panama and Columbia, are crawling with drug smugglers and guerillas. Nevertheless, Darién’s rivers, jungles, and indigenous communities can be explored safely on tours from Panama City (see Touring below).

• La Iglesia de Natá
  The oldest colonial church in Panama can be found in Natá, a sleepy town in Coclé Province. The church was built in 1522 and has been beautifully restored

ACTIVITIES

With 1800 miles (2850 km) of Caribbean and Pacific coastlines, thousands of islands and coral reefs, plus 12 national parks and 19 protected areas harboring dense jungles and mountains, Panama offers inexhaustible opportunities for outdoor activities. Many can be done independently, but you can also work with a local tour operator or guide.

• Swimming
• Snorkeling
• Scuba Diving
• Surfing and Windsurfing
• Hiking
• Horseback Riding
• Sea Kayaking
• Bird Watching
• River Rafting
• Cycling
• Deep-Sea Fishing
• Golf

TOURING

• Viajes Cora
  Experienced English-speaking guides who know the country well. A wide variety of tours throughout the country including visits to Embera and Kuna villages
  Tel: (507) 264-4436 264-4670
  E-mail: info@viajescora.com
  Internet:ways2panama.com
• Ancón Expeditions
  Destinations include the Darién, San Blas Islands, Isla Barro Colorado, Boquete, Volcán Barú, and Bocas del Toro.
  Tel: 507-269-9414/9415
  E-mail: travel@ecopanama.com
  Internet: anconexpeditions.com.

• Iguana Tours
  Itineraries similar to Ancón Expeditions.
  Tel: 507-226-8738/4516
  E-mail: iguana@sinfo.net
  Internet: nvmundo.com/iguanatours

• Chiriquí River Rafting
  Organizes rafting trips on the Río Chiriquí (US$75 to US$210).
  Tel: 507-236-5218
  E-mail: hsanchez@panma.c-com.net

• Bocas Water Sports
  Offers diving and snorkeling trips, along with nature tours in Bocas del Toro.
  Tel/fax: 507-757-9541
  Internet: bocasdeltoro.com

ALTERNATIVES

Volunteering

• The Asociacion Nacional para la Conservacion de la Naturaleza (ANCON) provides opportunities for volunteering on nature conservation projects throughout Panama. Food and shelter are provided, and lengths of stay are flexible. Their office is in Panama City
  Tel.: 507-314-0060
  ancon@ancon.org

Language Learning

• Short-term and intensive (4 weeks or more ) Spanish-language courses are offered by the Language & International Relations Institute (ILERI) in Panama City. Groups are small (maximum 4 people). Rates range from US$130 for one week to US$485 for four weeks of instruction (4 hours daily, M-F). Homestay programs are also available.
  Tel: 507-260-4424
  espanolinst@cwp.net.pa

LODGINGS

Panama City has hotels in all price ranges. Most moderately priced lodgings (US$20-$55) are located in the La Exposición neighborhood near downtown. Almost all have air-conditioning and television, but furnishings tend to be basic. Top end hotels (US$55-$250) can be very luxurious. The majority of these are in the Bella Vista and El Congrejo areas east of the city center.

Lodgings outside Panama City vary tremendously, from modest guest houses to upscale resorts. All hotels on the San Blas Islands are owned and run by Kuna Indians. Reservations must be made through tour operators or travel agents in Panama City.

Recommended Lodgings

Panama City

• Hotel Covadonga
  English-speaking staff. Clean 24-hour restaurant and rooftop pool. Rates: $US22-$30.
  Tel: 507-225-4011. Fax: 507-225 4011.

• Hotel California
  Popular budget hotel on busy Avenida España. About US$25.
  Tel: 507-263-7736. Fax: 507-264-6144.

• Las Vegas Suites Hotel
  Conveniently located in El Congrejo near banks, shops, and restaurants. Kitchens and refrigerators. Rates start at about US$40.
  Tel: 507-269-0722. Fax: 507-223-0047.

• Hotel Caesar Park
  Five-star hotel with all the luxuries one would expect. Rates: $US150-$250.
  Tel: 800-228-3000. Internet: caesarpark.com

El Valle

• Hotel Campastre
  Beautifully landscaped grounds surround this rambling 1920’s hotel. There’s also a popular restaurant. Rates: $US60 -$75.
  Tel: 507-983-6146. Fax: 507-983-6460.

Boquete

• Hotel Panamonte
  Perhaps the most attractive hotel in Panama. An atmospheric old European-style lodge furnished with antiques. Good restaurant. Rates: US$45-$55.
  Tel: 507-720-1327. Fax: 507-720-1324.

Bocas del Toro

• La Veranda
  Cheerful, well-kept guest house. Canadian owner. Rates: US$8-$15.
  Tel/Fax: 507-757-9211

• Cocomo On-the-Sea
  Very comfortable, nicely decorated rooms right on the ocean. Rates: $US40-$45.
  Tel/ fax: 507-757-9259.

Colón

• Hotel Washington
  A once-grand holdover from the early days of the Panama Canal. Rates: US$55-$75.
  Tel: 507-441-7133. Fax: 507-441-7397

EATS

Multicultural Panama City offers restaurants of all kinds. The selection is very limited in other parts of the country. An exception is Bocas del Toro, which has numerous good seafood and Italian restaurants. Traditional Panamanian food is heavy on meat and seafood dishes accompanied by rice and beans (gallo pinto). The national dish is sancocho, a spicy vegetable and chicken stew.

Recommended Restaurants

Panama City

• Caffé Pomodoro
  A very popular, reasonably priced Italian restaurant next to the Las Vegas Suites Hotel. Open daily noon to 11 pm.
  Tel: 507-269-5836.

• Crepes & Waffles
  Casual and airy creperie in the Marbella district. Has dishes for meat eaters and vegetarians. Open daily noon to 11 pm.
  Tel: 507-269-1574.

• El Trapiche
  Serves typical Panamanian fare. In the Panama La Vieja (Old Panama) handicraft market building. Open 8 am to 11 pm daily.

• Restaurante Las Bóvedas
  Upscale dining in Casco Viejo’s 18th-century fortifications. On west side of Plaza de Francia. Open Monday to Sunday 7 pm to 11 pm.
  Tel: 507-228-8058

• Restaurante Vegetariano Mireya
  A good bet for vegetarians. Inexpensive. Calle Ricardo Arias and Avenida 3 Sur. Open every day except Sunday 6 am to 8 pm.

Bocas del Toro

• Albertos Tasty
  Italian dishes served on the top floor of a funky old wooden house on Bocas Town’s main street.

• Le Pirate
  Dependable seafood and pasta dishes right on the water. Lively atmosphere. Open from 10 am until late at night.

SHOPPING

Boutiques and markets in Panama City and the Sunday market at El Valle offer the best opportunities for buying traditional handicrafts. Kuna molas, basketry, wood and tagua nut carvings, and huacas (replicas of pre-Columbian gold ornaments), are some of the items available. Grand Morrison department stores also have good selections of crafts, as well as English-language books and magazines.

The Zona Libre on the outskirts of Colón is the second largest duty-free zone in the world (after Hong Kong). However, most of the stores cater to wholesalers. Goods purchased here are shipped to the airport and can be picked up only when leaving the country. Stores in Panama City offer especially good deals on jewelry.

HAPPENINGS

• The biggest event of the year in Panama is Carnaval, celebrated during the four days leading up to Ash Wednesday. Music, costumes, dancing, and a large parade in Panama City all form part of the festivities.

• As in other Latin American nations, Semana Santa (Easter Holy Week) is an important time for religious processions and special events.

• On October 21, thousands of religious pilgrims descend upon Portobelo for the Black Christ ceremony.

• There is a 10-day flower and coffee fair (Feria de las Flores y del Café) in Boquete every January.

GETTING THERE

Delta, Continental, and Copa (Panama’s national airline) all fly to Panama City from North America, with nonstop flights from Atlanta, Dallas, Houston, and Miami.

Iberia flies from Madrid and KLM from Amsterdam.

PANALINE has daily deluxe bus service between San José, Costa Rica, and Panama City. The trip takes about 15 hours and fares are roughly US$25 one-way and US$50 return.
Tel: 507-255-1205 in San José or 507-262-1618 in Panama City.
Bus tickets can also be purchased from travel agencies in both cities.

GETTING AROUND

Panama has good roads and a well-developed intercity bus system. However, Panama City’s public transportation is very poor. Taxis are inexpensive and the best way to get around town. All the major rental car agencies operate in Panama City. Rates begin at about US$20 per day. Some companies, such as Budget (Tel. 263-8777; e-mail: budgetmg@sinfo.net ), offer special deals for multi-day rentals.

Aeroperlas, Panama’s largest domestic carrier (Tel. 507-269-4555), has regularly scheduled flights to destinations throughout the country. Aero-Taxi (Tel. 507-264-8644) and several other small airlines fly to the San Blas Islands from Panama City. There is regular high-speed launch service between Chiriquí Grande and the town of Bocas del Toro on Isla Colón.

WEATHER

Located only nine degrees north of the equator, Panama has a tropical climate with a wet and a dry season. The tourist season is year-round, but the dry season, which runs roughly from mid-December to mid-April, is the most comfortable time to visit. Expect daily afternoon downpours and high humidity during the wet season.

Temperatures in Panama City seldom drop below 75º F (25º C) and highs usually exceed 90º F (32 ºC). Mountain towns such as El Valle and Boquete are considerably cooler than lowland areas. Panama’s Caribbean coast receives much more rain than its Pacific side. Panama lies below the main path of hurricanes.

MONEY AND ATMS

Panama mints its own coins but uses the American dollar (officially called the Balboa) as its currency. Panama City is an international banking center and ATM’s that accept major credit and bank cards can be found throughout the country.

The easiest bank in which to cash traveler’s checks is the Banco de Istmo, which has branches in Panama City and in several towns throughout the country. American Express checks are the most readily accepted. US$100 bills are not usually welcome in restaurants and stores.

COMMUNICATIONS

Most of Panama City’s cybercafes are clustered in the upscale El Congrejo district.

• Cybercafé de Panama Torres de Alba
  Behind the El Panama Hotel on Calle Eusebio A. Morales.
  Tel: 507-265-1257

• Stratos
  Via Argentina in the Edificio Don Julio.
  Tel: 507-612-9174.

HEALTH AND SAFETY

Panama is a relatively healthy and safe country to travel in. However, malaria, dengue fever, hepatitis A, rabies, and yellow fever do present some risk for visitors. Discuss preventative measures with a doctor before leaving home. Tap water is potable in Panama City. Stick to bottled purified water outside the capital.

Rural areas are generally safe, but robberies have occurred in the Casco Viejo area of Panama City. The impoverished Chorrillo district of Panama City should be avoided altogether. The seedy port city of Colón is very dangerous for tourists (except for the Zona Libre and Hotel Washington). Panama has established a special tourism police force to help protect visitors.

VISAS AND OTHER OFFICIAL DOCUMENTS

Citizens of the United States, Canada, and most western European nations must have a valid passport (good for at least six months) plus a tourist card to enter Panama. Tourist cards allow stays of 30 days, cost US$6.00, and can be purchased upon entering the country. Tourist cards may be extended for another 30 days at the Departamento de Immigracion y Naturalizacion in Panama City (Tel: 225-8925/1448/1175).

Citizens of Austria, Britain, Chile, Costa Rica, Germany, Spain, Switzerland, and Uruguay currently require only a valid passport. Visitors from Asia, Africa, Cuba, and several eastern European countries may also have to show a Panamanian visa (US$20) purchased from a Panamanian embassy or consulate abroad.

For up to date information, contact the Panamanian Embassy or Consulate in your home country.

RESOURCES

Recommended Guidebooks

• Lonely Planet Panama Guide by Scott Doggett (Lonely Planet Publications, 1st edition, January 1999).

• Panamá (Ulysses Travel Publications, 3rd edition, November 1999).

• Getting to Know Panama by Michele Labrut (available at Gran Morrison department stores in Panama City).

• A Guide to the Birds of Panama by Robert Ridgely and John A. Gwynne Jr. (Princeton University Press).

Web Sites

panamainfo.com
The most comprehensive site on Panama

ipat.gob.pa
Official site of Panama’s tourism office

pancanal.com
Official site of the Panama Canal Commission. This is a very cool website!

Read more GoNOMAD stories about Panama

Budget Beaches of Sayulita, Mexico By Sheila Mary Koch

Continued - Back to Page One

Back to GoNOMAD Home Page

EATS

Two taco stands are open at night, one in the main plaza and the other near the bridge. On the plaza, you can find sandwiches (tortas), BBQ chicken and ice cream.
Restaurants on the plaza include: Calypso, Choco Banana, Seafood Tiger and Cafe Laura. A block toward the beach, on M. Navarrete is Alas Blancas and Breakers.

For seaside dining in order of increasing expense, there's El Costeño, Barbaros and Don Pedros. Seafood pizza cooked in a clay oven is available Thursday through Saturday at Pizza Ron on the river. On the other side of the sports field on Calle Miramar, you'll find Cocina Economica next to Cafecito.

Of several grocery stores throughout the pueblo, Mi Tiendita on the square is the largest and best priced. If you're buying food for the week, go to Vallarta for better variety and prices.

On Avenue Revolucion, there are special stores that just sell tortillas, chicken and meat. For fresh fish, go to the beach in the morning and wait for the fishermen to return.

NIGHTLIFE

Sayulita is not a big party town, only a couple establishments stay open past midnight.

• The latest is Calypso, a bar/restaurant overlooking the town square that caters to tourists. Here you can listen to jazz and reggae music while watching surfing videos.
• Don Pedros, also a restaurant/bar, has live reggae music and dancing during tourist season. Check here regarding salsa dance lessons and yoga classes.
• On Saturdays, there is dance or "baile" in the basketball court. Sometimes they play disco and other times local banda groups play. It's very popular with locals.
• Cafecito features acoustic music Thurs.-Sat. in a classy garden atmosphere.
• The pool hall upstairs kitty-corner from Calypso is a hangout for Mexican men. In recent years, patrons have become tolerant of female tourists using the hall. Unfortunately, it closes around 9 pm.

HAPPENINGS

• Fiesta del Pueblo is always Feb. 24 with festivities throughout that week. Vendors and carnival rides and games fill the streets. Cars and buses have to find an alternate route. A rodeo and multi-band concert are the highlights.
• Semana Santa (Holy week) translates to Spring Break for city dwellers from Guadalajara who flock to Sayulita. There are no cultural traditions happening in the streets like in some Latin American towns. Discos and parties happen every night.
• Dia de al Marina is Mexico's equivalent of Memorial Day. In Sayulita, instead of honoring dead soldiers, the people honor fishermen who never returned. Boats are filled with ice and beer, a huge meal is cooked and people celebrate all day. At night, everyone goes out on boats and forms a ring to pray and throw flowers in the sea. When they return, the festivities continue.

• Mexican Independence on Sept. 16. For two days, the village celebrates with traditional dances, dramatic re-enactments of Mexico's history including pre-Colombian rituals, bands, food and dancing in the town square. There is a special dance of the village elders and a greased pole with prizes on top that the men attempt to climb for hours. The successful pole climber throws the gifts out to the crowd. Festivities culminate with the Gritar de Independecia where everyone shouts "Viva Mexico" at the top of their lungs.

GETTING THERE

Tourism makes the area inexpensive to fly to and accessible by bus from the US. Sayulita is less than an hour north of Puerto Vallarta by bus or car. Follow Highway 200 north from the airport, cross into the state of Nayarit. The road passes Mezcales, Bucerias, San Quitin, and finally San Ignacio before reaching the 3 km turnoff to Sayulita.

• By Air
  America West, Mexicana, Alaska, Canada 3000, AeroMexico fly into Diáz Ordaz Intl. Airport of Puerto Vallarta. Suntrips and SunQuest offer packages to Puerto Vallarta you can purchase airfare only.

• By Bus
  From the US Border, it is 28+ hours by Transportes Norte de Sonora or Pacifico to the Tepic Terminal. Here you can take Pacifico to Sayulita. Pacifico won't let you off at the highway crossing after dark if you are female. Pacifico also offers local bus service between the village square and Puerto Vallarta from 6 am to 8 pm. Choco Banana posts the current schedule.

GETTING AROUND

• Car rental is available at the airport from all major companies. Daily rates without insurance start at about $25 for a compact. If you carry Mastercard or Visa, you probably already carry insurance that covers car rental in Mexico.

• Taxis from the airport start at $30. Collectivo taxis run regularly from Sayulita to San Pancho and La Peñita.

WEATHER

The weather in Sayulita is generally a bit milder than in Puerto Vallarta. November through February is the coolest, driest period with temperatures around 75-80 degrees F. Nights are usually cool enough to need a sweater and jeans. It gets hotter and more humid in April and May. The rain/storm season is June-October. During this time, the waves get very big and the beaches nearly disappear. Advanced surfers love it.

HEALTH AND SAFETY

Come prepared for mosquitoes. There aren't tons, but they seem to like tourists. If you need medicine or advice, visit the pharmacy, which is run by a doctor. There is a hospital in neighboring San Francisco for emergencies.

MONEY

The closest ATM is in Bucerias. For a bank--including changing foreign currency--you need to go to Mezcales, Puerto Vallarta or La Penita. The liquor store and Paleteria will change your money for slightly higher rates.

COMMUNICATIONS

• Public telephones are located in the Paleteria. Rates to the US are almost $2 a minute.
• A cybercafe is located in the front of the plaza facing the church. Hourly rates are about $4 and hour.

VISAS AND OTHER OFFICIAL DOCUMENTS

US citizens can use a birth certificate and drivers license or passport to enter Mexico. For visa costs and length of stay, consult the Mexican Embassy or consulate.

RESOURCES

Website: Guide to Sayulita

Back to Page One

Back to GoNOMAD Home Page

Read more GoNOMAD stories about Mexico

Read more GoNOMAD stories about: Bicycling - Canoeing - Hiking - Horseback Riding - Kayaking - Rafting - Sailing - Snorkeling - Skiing - Snowboarding - Surfing - Ziplining

Relishing Belize: Ruins, Rainforest and Reef

By Belkis Kambach

Belize greets its visitors with the promise of unforgettable adventure rivaled by no other country. Where else, in the span of a single day, can you walk among ancient Mayan ruins, trek through a lush rainforest jungle and explore the longest barrier reef in the Western Hemisphere?

Wildlife is the heart of Belize, and Belizians place high priority on preservation. In the eighties, this tiny country, roughly the size of Wales, pioneered eco-tourism long before the term was coined, and today the ideals of green tourism are rigorously upheld.

Dabbling its toes in the Caribbean coast of the Central American isthmus, southeast of the Yucatán Peninsula nestled between Mexico and Guatemala, this small Central American-Caribbean nation has more in common with its island neighbors than with its fiery Central American nextdoor neighbors.

English-speaking (with a Caribbean lilt), Creole-dominated andwith a coup-free history, this pocket-size eco-heaven has an atmosphere so laid-back it's almost comatose -- if it weren’t for the Belizian mosquitoes.

Belize shares a colorful and diverse culture and languages with a friendly populace of barely 200,000, consisting of a harmonious mix of Mestizos, Indians, Creoles, Mayans, Garifuna, Spanish, Mennonite, Lebanese, Chinese, and Brits (left over from the country's days as British Honduras). Due to its racial harmony and religious tolerance, all have blended successfully in this melting pot and adventurer's paradise. Best of all, this peaceful neighbor is barely a two-hour travel from three major U.S. Gateways.

For its size, beautiful, unspoiled Belize is also unique in the number of different wildlife habitats and species within its borders. A diverse topography reflected in its vegetation, with landscapes mixing mountains, savannas, wetlands, coastal lagoons, lush tropical rain forests rich with wildlife reserves where intrepid travelers can enjoy a seaside jungle paradise.

Most travelers flock to Belize for the excellent fishing or scuba diving. However, the Cayo District, part of Belize's inland frontier an intoxicating melange of lovely Maya ruins, untouched rain forest and primitive villages, brought us here.

One thing seems certain, we came home with vivid memories of wildlife, ruins, rainforest and reef. We knew it would be difficult leaving Belize, its wildlife, warm and hardy people, its lush landscape and its love for its precious environment. But, we also knew that, unlike its neighboring countries, this paradise wouldn’t be lost.

ATTRACTIONS

Mayan Ruins

Besides being a naturalist’s paradise, Belize is also an archeologist’s dream come true. Belize was once home to more than a million Mayans, and thousands of years later, over 600 jungle-veined ruins remain as testament to the inventive Mayan civilization.

Easy and fun to explore, they loom out of untouched jungle floors. Mayans were pyramid builders, constructing breathtaking temple aligned to the movement of celestial bodies. Although they remained technically a Stone Age culture, they developed sophisticated mathematics (inventing the number zero), advanced understanding of astronomy, and calendars whose precision were surpassed only in the 20th century.

Their history can be traced for over 4000 years, but by the 14th century their civilization was in serious decline. Their stone legacies can be found all across the region, and you can even meet a few of the modern-day Mayans who still populate Belize.

During our stay we visited two Mayan sites: Altun Ha, cloaked by rainforests, a ceremonial center founded in 200 B.C. and is home of the largest jade head of the Sun God ever found. A hand-cranked wooden ferry carried us across the Mopan River to Xunantunich (Stone Maiden), Belize's archaeological pride and most visited Mayan site. It is set on a leveled hilltop near the river close to the Guatemalan border.

Here the jungle has been hacked back, and the restored ruins are set amid cropped lawns. The site is impressive -- the 1,000-year-old central pyramid is the second-tallest structure in Belize. The site flourished as a ceremonial center for many of the country's estimated one million Mayans and is thought to have been abandoned after an earthquake damaged it around 900 AD. The ruins have not been extensively restored, and archaeologists have stripped away the loamy jungle floor to expose stone foundations, where the imprint of an ancient civilization is irrefutable.

Xunantunich’s tallest building - El Castillo - rises an impressive 131 feet out of the jungle. As we climbed the steep stone stairs leading to the top of the massive pyramid, we viewed dense jungle stretching to all horizons. Behind us, lush vegetation swallowed all but the highest peaks of the ruins, and a green carpet dotted with lighter patches of small farms and villages was spread all the way into Guatemala. Dominating the site is a wooded hill that had once been the central pyramid.

We were curious about infamous Mayan history and their human sacrifices, which sometimes involved tying the unfortunate victims into a ball and rolling them down these temple steps. Morbidly, we pushed our guide Peter for details about these sacrifices and Mayan lore. We were now as close as we could ever be to the ancient Mayans who once dominated Central America.

Rainforest

Half of little Belize is covered by dense jungle, and eighty percent of its rainforest remains under government protection, much of it unexplored. These tropical forests provide habitats for a wide range of animals including jaguar, puma, ocelot, armadillo, tapir and crocodile.

The country is also home to 4,000 species of tropical flowers, including 250 kinds of orchids. It harbors over 500 species of birds that soar through Belize’s vine trailed jungles: Fruit-Loop style keel-billed toucans (Belize’s national bird); jabiru stork, the largest flying bird in the Americas; the rare agami heron; hummingbirds; neon-green-painted parrots; an abundance of macaws, heron and snowy egret that delight sharp-eyed eco-travelers.

Getting there on a Tropic Air eight-passenger single engine turbo prop (45 minute flight) from Belize City to Gallon Jug turned out to be the best part. Our U.S.-trained pilot first skimmed the blue waters of the Caribbean Sea to the northwest region, then maneuvered down a thin landing strip carved from the jungle, ending abruptly at a farm.

The plane rolled to stop at a shack that serves as passenger terminal, control tower, coffee farm and taxi stop. An awaiting minibus and two employees greeted us and led a dirt road procession into Chan Chich, a dream lodge run by a handsome, well-informed American expat, Tom Harding from San Diego, who ditched a career as a carpenter for a life in the jungle.

Spending two days at Chan Chich, we were able to enjoy the sights and sounds of the jungle. There are 380,000 acres of jungle sanctuary here, of which 129,000 acres belong to the innovative Belizian Belikan Beer King, Barry Bowen, and the adjoining protected properties to The Nature Conservancy. This sprawling territory of protected rainforest, lagoons, rivers, swamps and open bushland with lush gardens is a bird-watchers heaven, attracting flocks of migrating birds. We weren't disappointed.

Our primary goal here was to see jaguars and other wildlife. Gilberto Vazquez, our local guide, took us over 9 1/2 miles of trails to see our feathered friends settle down. Toucans, macaws and hundreds of other bird species flit about. If we're very, very lucky, Gilberto said we might spy a jaguar, puma, jagarundi, margay or even the rare spotted ocelot.

" Keep an eye on fer-de-lance and alligators," he said. "They haven't eaten a guest -- yet!" Here a rutted path usually means tapir -- or mountain cow -- are nearby, and a white-tail deer usually means jaguars are close, contemplating dinner. "We may not see them, but they’re here; worse, they know we’re here."

Also, making their home in the jungle are peccaries (a kind of wild pig), coatimundi, gibnut, howler monkeys and insects -- especially insects. These were annoyingly present throughout our hike to the bat cave, where some 120 of the furry creatures slept peacefully. We also spotted wavy green lines crossing the trail; a closer look at these undulating paths revealed millions of leafcutter ants methodically carrying bits of leaves back to their massive nests.

We were forewarned, but less fortunate hikers from Boston grabbed at a tree for a handhold and were greeted by a shower of very angry, biting ants. While we saw nothing more of the larger beasts that morning, we did enjoy a visual feast of flora and fauna: cattle egrets, keel-billed toucans and howler monkeys lapping over us with improbable grace, always hugging the heights of trees.

Spider monkeys bounced with gusto through the canopy overhead, and when we looked up, they appeared as fascinated with us as we were with them. Gazing down from the treetops, they pitched leftover fruits at us like professional baseball players.After the tour, we were ready for a siesta.

Taking the trail that led to our bungalow, a dozen ocelated turkeys greeted us at the entrance. We set claim to our hammocks, swinging in the shade sipping fresh coladas while sharing the porch with a few other guests -- the resort’s resident lizards.

Woodpeckers tapped rotted trees, blue morpho butterflies flitted, perhaps sponsored by Kodak as they didn’t allow a photo to be taken of their glorious wings. I spent hours watching the lizards, trying to remember their shapes and coloring, so I could look them up in the immense books kept in the lodge library.

After dinner, we went on the day’s third nature walk in search of the tiny red eye tree frog. We turned our faces to the sky and listened to the sounds of the Belizean jungle serenaded by howlers and peeping tree frogs. Sleep came easily after the pleasantly exhausting day and magical night. We were in bed early, greedy for sleep, despite feeling that the entire jaguar population was making ambitious dinner plans.

The next morning, we woke early to nature’s alarm clock. Grackles chattered us awake, a grunting chorus, until it became throaty Howler monkeys. On our thatched patio we watched the sun burst over the emerald horizon and then moved from the balcony for huevos rancheros, Belizian eggs (eggs scrambled with onion, bell peppers and tomatoes), fry jacks and an endless juice supply from just-picked fruit.

With no fear, we wandered into the rainforest on an early 6 a.m. walk where we encountered groups of spider monkeys, cute as they were loud, each hanging by one hairy arm from trees. Our guide, Gilberto, led us over barely-formed dirt roads, a sort of rainforest medicine trail where we were introduced to medicinal plants used by healers. The liana vine can be used for water and the bark of the tapaculo tree (called "plug up your butt" by children), is boiled and ingested to cure diarrhea.

Many trails in Belize work in partnership with the New York Botanical Garden and the American Cancer Society to find cures for cancer. So far, over 2000 plants have been researched, and a dozen or so are showing promise. Be wary of Che-chem (local poison ivy) and a tree whose razor-sharp thorns inject a potent toxin into the blood (the give-and-take tree). The only known cure is the tree’s own sap.

Coral Reef

Nineteen miles offshore lies the 180-mile long Belize Barrier Reef, the world's second largest expanse of coral after Australia's and the largest barrier reef in the Western Hemisphere, a snorkeling and diving heaven teeming with life. Even Jacques Cousteau praised the park's reefs 30 years ago.

To the west of the reef are numerous cayes basking in warm water usually not over 16 feet deep. The most popular with travelers is Ambergris Caye, some 36 miles north of Belize City, the largest (25 miles long) of the country's cayes --ragged islands dotting Belize's coast along the Caribbean Sea and Belize’s diving capital.

We popped over from the mainland to get a taste of the great reef, landing in colorful San Pedro, the island’s main and only town. Ramon's Village is home of San Pedro's best beach. Since Ambergris Cay has more hotels than any other part of Belize, visitors often use it as their base for day trips and longer excursions.

Being one of the region’s premier dive spots, it offers underwater experiences beyond compare. The exceptional nature of Belize is even more pronounced offshore, with a host of excursions offered to diving and snorkeling spots, including: Blue Hole, Glover’s Reef and Turneffe Islands, three of the only four coral atolls on this side of the world. The Blue Hole, 300 to 400 feet deep, is an almost perfect circle of sapphire water ringed by aquamarine shallows.

Once avoided by native Caribbean fishermen, these mysterious, seemingly bottomless pools were originally dry caves and caverns on islands of limestone. Big Blue in Belize's Lighthouse Reef is among today's favorite attractions for divers.

As the edge of the barrier reef travels south along the coast of Belize, it separates itself further from the mainland. The result is a broad expanse of coral reef with channels going from 90 to 110 feet that rise abruptly into shoals and caves. The reef acts as a wall, breaking the force of tropical storms as they approach the mainland.

As rays of light pierce the water, it seemed as if the creatures of the "night shift" -- octopus, eel, squirrel fish -- made way for the angelfish, butterfly fish and the other living jewels that adorn the daytime reef together with the huge colonies of animals that have the unique ability to suck the minerals out of sea water to create reefs. Coral.

Among the world's oldest ecosystems, reefs are home to more than a thousand different species of plants and animals that bring to vivid life a multicolored wonderland to the underwater visitor that wades himself into these translucent Belizian waters.

Feeling we should get a taste for the island's snorkel-appeal, we signed up for a snorkeling expedition to Hol Chan Marine Park, east of Ambergris Cay. The highlight for novices here is the chance to swim with sharks, literally. At Shark Alley there is a natural opening from the inside of the reef to the outside. Historically, this is an area where fishermen would clean their catch, naturally attracting stingrays and nurse sharks, much like Sting Ray City on Grand Cayman.

Putting our masks to proper use we bobbed the ocean surface and spent a day snorkeling over the reef. The resort’s dive boat carries you to islands so small no map charts them. Once the boat pulls up at Shark Alley you can see sharks under the boat as they are conditioned to the sound of the engine -- meaning merienda time! Arriving at the site the interaction with these creatures is fantastic.

One of the dive guides jumped in and very slowly dived under and grabbed a nurse shark (with two hands around the head) bringing it to the surface. He rolled it over so we could scratch its belly. This caused it to remain in a catatonic state.

We saw more of these sharks at the bottom swimming very slowly in all directions, and we dove down to take photos. We snorkeled alongside the nurse sharks, named such because they have no teeth. We also swam along the great rock wall under the watchful eye of our dive master, the coral stretching endlessly beneath us like a vast organic city. Here underwater visibility can be an astonishing 197 feet.

No-fishing rules have given rise to a truly incredible population of amazingly obese fish. They can be found in staggering numbers, sometimes in schools consisting of 300-plus fish, but more often in schools ranging from half a dozen to a dozen.

The variety and complexity of coral architecture is as astonishing as it is fragile. The merest brush with a flipper can destroy centuries of growth. Giant stingrays, stoplight parrot fish, boquinete (hogfish), redband parrot, hermit crabs, coral Orejon (elkhorn coral), common sea fan, Rabirrubia (yellowtail), yellow jack snapper and dozens of brightly colored tropical fish danced gracefully along the coral reef.

Some species included French angelfish, angelically shaped indeed and with a yellow dab on every scale; the fairy basslet, two inches long, half indigo, half orange, divided laterally halfway along the body; and the yellow goatfish, maybe a foot long, their bodies striped like shirts but outlined all around by an ethereal yellow fringe. A school of bright blue tangs splashed the scene with color. There may be historic value in a ruin, but the exhilaration of a healthy, living reef is beyond words.

Although everything in Ambergris Caye, including the sand airstrip, is within walking distance, the rest of the island is accessible only by golf cart, water taxi or fishing boat -- which has the tendency of turning even the simplest outing into an adventure. Making the right decision, we boarded the local water taxi that whisked us to dinner -- a 20 minute ride to the north end of the island under a sky overflowing with stars while saltwater sprayed our faces.

At night, exhausted both by swimming and by memorizing the fish, we slept heavily under the palms with the tropical rain thundering our thatch roof. The wonderful duality of Ambergris Cay is that you can swim with the sharks in the morning, wander barefoot through the sandy streets at noon and dine in splendor at night.

On the final leg of our journey we flew Maya Island Air from Ambergris Caye to Municipal (17 minute flight on a nine-seater Britten Norman BNZ -- a scary aircraft) and drove to the Cayo District of Western Belize.

In Cayo, we joined four other travelers in the back of a mini van for a kidney-jarring ride over some pretty rough roads. Belize is for the natural traveler who appreciates both culture and beauty and is willing to expend a little effort in seeing it. It may seem a difficult place to travel, with only two paved roads in the whole country.

Along the way we saw few signs of human life along the river: just Mayan women washing clothes in the river and very tanned Mennonite villagers selling watermelons. The jungle around is spectacular, edged with green leaves sporting orange Latispathas, bromeliads, breadfruit and mangoes.

Ready to rest our kidneys, we paddled down Barton Creek where a farmer discovered a cave filled with Mayan pottery nearly 2,000 years old. Canoeing proved an excellent way of seeing the caves, gliding us through the dark caverns that remain almost as the ancient Mayans left them. Wedging our way deeper, we discover the cave ends in a vaulted chamber.

In the center, rocks ring small altars untouched for a millennia or longer. Peter, our guide, had us turn off our head-lamps, and we were enveloped by total darkness and a silence broken only by our breath. Paddling under a gothic cavern ceiling adorned with jagged stalactites, we became objects of curiosity for dozens of bats.

After lunch, we went up the trail to Cave's Branch River where we clambered over rocks and slogged through undergrowth along the 45-minute climb to the cave. Cesar, our Guatemalan guide, identified various trees and taught us how to eat termites -- a minty taste, by the way. Finally, we crested the summit to view the cave. Reaching the top drenched in sweat, we all jumped into the Class II rapids for an afternoon of cave tubing, which churned us like berries in a Krups blender.

The current carved its way through the bedrock forming different levels of pools and natural dive platforms. These inner-tubes allowed us to cool off on a leisurely half-hour drift down the jungly Branch River and tube through caves along the river. Cesar led the way, and we were filled with awe and honor when he announced we would be the first non-Mayans ever sacrificed here. After dawn-to-dusk climbing, leaping, crawling, tubing and swimming, we decided to pass the next day more peacefully.

UNUSUAL ATTRACTIONS

• Visit Guanaland to adopt a Belizian iguana. Belize is inhabited by a great variety of lizards from skinny two-inch miniature gecko to chameleon-like anole. Perhaps the most popular here is the tiny godzilla like critter with crested head and back, the Basilisk Lizard. Locals call it Jesus Christ because it has the power to walk on water. Five iguana farm projects in Belize alone are trying to save the green iguana in Belize.
  Guanaland
  The San Ignacio Resort Hotel
  P.O. Box 33 San Ignacio, Cayo District Belize, C.A.
  Tel: 501-92-2034/ 2125, Fax: 2134
  sanignaciobelize.com
  sanighot@btl.net
  Adopt for $20

• The Belize Zoo near Cayo provides a home for different species of native wildlife. 29 acres of tropical savanna is home to over 125 animals which were either orphaned or born here. This is a great stop to make up for any animal sighting you missed in the jungles.
  Belize Zoo
  Tel: 501-081-3004
  BelizeZoo.org
  belizezoo@btl.net

• Tropical Wings Tropical Wings is Belize’s largest Butterfly farm and is well worth a stop.thetrekstop.com/trophead.htm
  susa@btl.net
  Entrance is $5.00 Bz. ($2.50US) for adults; children 4 to 12 half-price.

TOURING

• The Jaguar Paw
  Tel:1-800-33-JUNGLE, 501- 81-3023, Fax: 501-81-3024
  jaguarpaw.com
  cyoung@jaguarpaw.com
  $40.00 p/p for half-day cave tubing through 5 caves.

• Cave's Branch River Canoeing
  Mike Bogaert
  Tel: 501- 92-3852
  mbogaert@btl.net

• Hol Chan Marine Reserve Shark Ray Alley
  aquadives.com
  aquadives@btl.net
  $25 Aqua Dives

ALTERNATIVES

Learning

• The Belize Audubon Society
  belizeaudubon.org
  Environmental education promotes appreciation of the beauty and value of nature. They believe education of the people of Belize is the most vital step towards widespread conservation.

• The Belize Valley Archaeological Reconnaissance's Field School
  bvar.org

• Council-International Study Programs
  633 Third Avenue 20th Floor New York, NY 10017
  Tel: 1-800-40-STUDY, Fax: 212-822-2779
  studyinfo@ciee.org
  ciee.org

• Monkey Bay Wildlife Sanctuary
  P.O. Box 187 Belmopan, Belize, Central America
  Tel: 501-823180 Fax: 501-823235
  info@watershedbelize.org
  watershedbelize.org
  A non-government membership organization that serves as a model for private land stewardship. The Sanctuary is 1,070 acres of tropical forest and savanna, bordered by the Sibun River which flows from the Maya Mountains through the coastal savanna on its path to the Caribbean Sea.

Teaching English

• University of Belize
  Main Campus
  University Drive
  Belmopan, Belize
  President - Dr. Angel Cal
  Tel: 501-82-3680
  Fax: 501-82-3930
  acal@rlc.ub.edu.bz V.P. - Academics
  Dr. Leopole Perriott
  Email: perriott@rlc.ub.edu.bzV.P. - Student affairs
  Dr. Martin Cuellar
  Email: mcuellar@rlc.ub.edu.bzRegional Language Center
  Director
  Mrs. Camela Palma

Volunteering

• Whale Shark Research Group
  research@whaleshark.org
  whaleshark.org
  A non-profit organization with the objective to closely monitor the behavior and migration of the Whale Shark (Rhincodon typus). Their intent is to continually monitor, record and preserve the largest and possibly the oldest living fish for the purpose of studying the effects of global warming on migratory fish. Also, they strive to determine the effects of pollution to plankton feeding sea creatures.

• Wildlife Rehab & Surveys
  volunteertravel.com/info.belize.html
  Placement Fee: $875

• The Belize Audubon Society
  P.O. Box 1001, 12 Fort Street Belize City, Belize Central America
  Tel: 501-2-35004 / Fax: 501-2-34985
  belizeaudubon.org/
  base@btl.net

• Amigos de las Americas
  393 S. Milwaukee Avenue, Wheeling, Illinois, 60025, United States
  Contact: Chuen Tam
  chicago@plaza.amigoslink.org
  amigoslink.org
  An international, voluntary, nongovernmental, not-for-profit organization that, through service: provides leadership development opportunities for young people; promotes community health in Latin America; and facilitates cross-cultural understanding for the people of the Americas. Area of Focus: Community Service and Volunteering

• The Scout Association of Belize
  belizenet.com/scout.html

• Women's Affairs and Youth Development
  Ministry of Human Resources, Belmopan POB 174, Belize
  Tel: 501-8-22248/22684/22637/22347 / Fax: 501-8-23175

• Young Men's Christian Association of Belize
  P.O. Box 1836, Belize City, Belize
  Tel: 501-2-33263, 31514 / Fax: 501-2-31330
  ymcabze@btl.net

• CVSS (Council for Voluntary Services)
  Executive Director
  P.O. Box 435, Belize City, Belize
  Tel: 501-2-74312
  cvss@btl.net
  velda9@yahoo.com

LODGINGS

Much of Belize is still a bargain, but the average hotel in Belize has 12 rooms and therefore, you must reserve well in advance.

Belize City

• Radisson Fort George Hotel
  2 Marine Parade
  Tel: 501-2-33333, Fax: 73820
  Tol Free: 1-800-333-33333
  radissonbelize.com
  rdfgh@btl.net

Rainforest

• Chan Chich Lodge
  P.O. Box #37 Belize City
  Tel: 501-2-34419, Fax: 501-2-34419
  chanchich.com
  info@chanchich.comChan Chich, meaning "small bird" in Mayan, is a colony of 12 comfortable, well-appointed bungalows (24 guests max.) nestled on a remote stretch amidst a Mayan main plaza used in 300 AD for ceremonies exclusively for the elite. Chan Chich fulfills every fantasy of what a jungle lodge should look like, combining an exotic mix of Mayan, safari and wildlife design where red hibiscus and masses of hanging lobster claw (Heliconia rostrata) tumble and bloom and humming birds swoop from high jungle canopies.

Reef

• Ramon's Village
  San Pedro, Ambergris Caye
  One Freedom Square Laurel, MS 39440-3325, USA\
  Tel: 601-649-1990, Fax: 601-649-1996
  ambergriscaye.com/ramons/index.html
  Also offers scuba instruction, dive guides, water craft rentals and fishing trips.

• Mata Chica Beach Resort
  San Pedro, Ambergris Caye
  Tel:: 501- 21-3010, Fax: 501-21-3012
  matachica.com
  matachica@btl.net
  Accessible only by boat, Mata Chica offers 11 individual bungalows decorated with one-of-a-kind murals. Also available: a 42-foot, four-stateroom catamaran anchored offshore.

At the Ruins

• Maya Land Villas
  Mile 69 1/4, Western Highway, Cayo
  Tel: 1-800-513-5553, 501- 91-2035, 2036, Fax: 501-91-2037
  mayalandbelize.com
  mayaland@btl.net

EATS

Traditional Belizian staples are rice and beans, often served with chicken, pork, beef, fish, vegetables or rat (you read right). Exotic traditional Belizian foods include armadillo, venison and fried paca (a small brown-white-spotted rodent similar to a guinea pig) that outraged the Brits when served to their queen during her visit to Belize: newspaper headlines in the UK read: "Queen Fed Rat." If you want to try a royal rodent for dinner give paca a try, but not after you’ve already seen one alive. You may never be able to take a bite if you’ve seen one of these beauties walking around.

Restaurants serving tourists feature fresh fish, and the ones catering to Belizians serve chicken with rice and beans and fried yellow and green plantain chips or coconut milk to add tropical flavor. Belize serves up great drinks like coconut-infused rum punch and coladas, and one brand of beer, "Belikan".

• Chateau Caribbean
  6 Marine Parade
  PO Box 947, Belize City
  Tel: 501-2-30800, Fax: 501-2-30900
  chateaucaribbean.com
  chateaucar@btl.net
  Try their coconut soup and tropical fruit lobster salad

• Mambo
  Mata Chica Beach Resort's eclectic and exotic restaurant has an Italian chef-owner, so her homemade gnocchi is a signature dish. Also good are the lobster tails, and the fresh fish specials; many of the herbs and vegetables she grows on premises.

• The Jaguar Paw
  Tel:1-800-33-JUNGLE, 501- 81-3023, Fax: 501-81-3024
  jaguarpaw.com
  cyoung@jaguarpaw.com

SHOPPING

There's no better way to revive memories than with a few well-chosen hand-carved slate or Ziricote wood carvings from Belize. Mary Sharp’s hot sauces are also notable and worth finding. Tip: prices are less expensive out of Belize City.

GETTING THERE

American Airlines (800) 433-7300 aa.com offers daily air service to Belize City. Belize is a two-hour direct flight from Miami, Houston, or New Orleans. A $20BZ ($10US) tax and a airport security fee of $2.50BZ ($1.25US) are charged when departing by air from the International Airport to any destination, foreign or domestic.

GETTING AROUND

By Plane

Belize has two paved roads and no rail network, so it depends heavily on tiny prop planes that fly frequently to air strips around the country. Tropic Air (800) 422-3435 and Maya Island Air (800) 521-1247. Fly to the domestic airports in Belize City, Gallon Jug, San Pedro.

By Car

Car Rentals
Cars can be rented in Belize City. But with the road situation (even worse in rainy season), it’s not the best way to get around.

WEATHER

With a subtropical climate, Belize’s temperature averages 79 degrees but can range from 50-95 degrees. Weather is hot and humid, but comfortably offset by tropical sea breezes. July through November marks hurricane season. Rainfall is a whopping 13 feet per year, most of it falling between June and November. The best time to travel is the dry season between December and May.

Humidity, averaging 85 percent, makes packing anything more than T-shirts, shorts, and a raincoat superfluous. Although the tendency is to dress for temperature, long-sleeve shirts and long pants provide better protection against the sun and the almost ever-present mosquitoes. Take rain gear no matter when you go.

HEALTH AND SAFETY

Mosquitoes rule the jungles of Belize through sheer number. Found in every continent in the world with the exception of Antarctica, the 2,500 species identified to date all must have time shares in Belize.

Having endured the usual itchy tribulations in many of our journeys, we had the foresight to bring and liberally apply insect repellent from hair to toenails, none of which worked in Belize. The pests found all our blood vessels and drank liberally of our blood. These wicked ones proved impervious to the strongest repellents we brought with us. DEET insect repellent might be the only thing to work in these jungles. The mosquitoes kept us constantly slapping ourselves on legs and arms in a demented parody of a Garifuna dance.

It is truly hard to understand these complicated vampires. Forget for a minute the mated female is the one that bites, the itching, bumps and irritation, they are by far the deadliest critters on the planet, spreading such maladies as malaria, yellow fever and dengue.

While no inoculations are required for travel to Belize, travelers to jungle areas should consider anti-malaria measures. Malaria and Dengue Fever are both found here, though they're fairly uncommon. Anti-malarials are recommended for jungle stays (the reasonable alternative -- which we prefer -- is to make sure you're not bitten: cover up at dawn and dusk, and use plenty repellent). To find a truly effective weapon against these bloodsuckers, try www.mosquito.org for the word on the latest repellents.

VISAS AND OTHER OFFICIAL DOCUMENTS

A valid passport is required for all visitors. For U.S. citizens, a visa is not required.

RESOURCES

Books

• Ecotourism in Action, by Meb Cutlack

• Hey Dad, by Emory King (available locally) is an anecdotal account of Belizean life written by an American expatriate.

• The Maya, by Michael D Coe

• A Forest of Kings: The Untold Story of the Ancient Maya, by Linda Shele and David Freidel.

• Time Among the Maya by Ronald Wright.

• The movie Mosquito Coast, based on the book by Paul Theroux, was partially filmed on the river that runs through Belize City.

Guidebooks

• Central America on a Shoestring (Lonely Planet )

• Central America Handbook, The Rough Guide

Cookbooks

• U Toucan Cook Belizean. Available locally.

Web Sites

ambergriscaye.com

belizezoo.org/

belizenet.com

Tourism Offices and Embassies

• The Belize Tourist Board
  Central Bank Building, Level 2 Belize City,
  Tel: 501-2-31913/31910, Fax 501- 2-31943
  travelbelize.org
  golda@travelbelize.org

• Belize Embassy
  2535 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008,
  Tel: 202-332-9636

Churchill, Manitoba: Polar Bears, Beluga Whales and more...

By Doreen Pendgracs
updated 8/06 by GoNOMAD Staff

Seeing polar bears up close and personal puts you in awe. They're big, they're beautiful and they're something few of us will ever encounter outside of a zoo-unless you venture to the remote, northern community of Churchill, Manitoba, "The Polar Bear Capital of the World."

You're almost guaranteed to see your fill of Polar bears if you visit Churchill during October or November, when upwards of 300 "Lords of the North" wait along the shores of Hudson Bay for the ice to freeze, giving them open hunting season for the thousands of seals that inhabit these Arctic waters. This is the best time to see Polar bears in Churchill!

Staring a Polar bear inthe eye through the window of a tundra buggy is an adrenaline rush like no other.

But face-to-face encounters with big white bears aren't the only reason to put Churchill on the list of great destinations.

In summer -- anytime from mid-June through August -- it's Beluga whale season, when thousands of the smiling white aquatic ambassadors head to Churchill to have their young. Visitors can get up close and personal with these gentle "white dolphins" as they swim alongside the boat or zodiac-close enough to touch!

The brave-at-heart -- and those with ultra warm clothing--should come in winter and catch a free show in the skies, as the Aurora Borealis, the northern lights, can be seen in the clear Churchill skies, peaking in March.

As the meeting place of three distinct geographical zones--tundra, boreal and maritime--the geological setting of Churchill is unique.

In fact, Churchill's setting on a peninsula where the Hudson Bay meets the fresh water of the Churchill River adds to its rich offerings, and the number of state parks makes it ideal for outdoor adventurers and wildlife watchers. But Churchill isn't strictly for nature buffs. Churchill's aboriginal communities and history as a fur-trading post for the Hudson Bay Company means there is lots of history to check out. Fans can explore the Prince of Wales Fort -- a massive stone fortress with 40-foot thick walls-where Samuel Hearne, the great explorer and fur trader, lost a battle with French invaders in 1782.

Parks Canada offers tours of the fort and has excellent videos available on the rich history of the region. There are also several other national parks and historic sites in the area. Churchill also houses the Arctic's only remaining grain terminal and tours of this massive structure can be arranged on request. Churchill is also home to an excellent "must-see" Eskimo Museum with an abundance of artifacts from the aboriginal heritage of the Inuit, Cree, Dene and Metis people who first settled this Arctic community.

Nature or history, fall, winter, spring or summer, Churchill is an ideal destination for the adventurous traveler. In any season, three to five days is a perfect length of time to take in all the wonders of this Arctic haven. Granted, you won't find any five-star hotels here (not even any four-stars!), but you will find plenty of stars in the clear, unobstructed skies of northern Canada.

MUST-SEE ATTRACTIONS Mother Nature is the unrivaled major attraction in Churchill, from Polar bears to northern lights, this is the place to check out arctic nature. Polar Bears Probably the most unusual--and exciting thing to do is to ride a tundra vehicle onto the wild terrain in search of Polar bears. The "tundra buggy" as it's called locally, is best described as a converted bus that moves slowly--very slowly--along the uneven terrain on rubber and chain tracks.

They move slower than molasses in January and you may bump around quite a bit, but the buggies are the only safe way to get close enough to a polar bear to see the color of his eyes. The tundra vehicles operate on a non-stop basis during busy Polar bear season and are generally included as part of the package you would book with your guide or tour operator.

Beluga Whales

In summer, Beluga whale-watching by small boat or zodiacs allows you to get close enough to touch the friendly creatures. You might also spot a polar bear or two in summer, but consider it a bonus if you do, as they spend most of their time out on the tundra sleeping, wandering along the coast or simply waiting for the return of winter.

Historical Sites Churchill is home to a number of Canada's National Historic Sites and Parks including Cape Merry, Prince of Wales Fort and Wapusk National Park -- still undeveloped with respect to tourist facilities. Parks Canada
Toll-free 1-888-773-8888, (204) 675-8863
http://www.parkscanada.pch.gc.ca/parks/main_e.htm Cultural Attractions

The major cultural attraction is Churchill's Eskimo Museum, open year round. It is a "must see" while in town, as the museum boasts a collection of more than 800 pieces of Inuit art and 3,000 local artifacts. Allow one to two hours for your visit-more if you're a real fan of soapstone or whale-bone carvings and aboriginal heritage. Free admission. (204) 675-2030.

ACTIVITIES

Besides Polar bears, Beluga whales and northern lights, there are plenty of other outdoor activities you can arrange independently, including winter dog sledding, snowshoeing, snowmobiling, hiking, canoeing and kayaking from June through September.

Snorkeling is possible during July and August. The water is cold, and a dry suit is recommended. Two tour companies offer snorkeling experiences with Beluga whales in Churchill -- SeaNorth Tours and Lazy Bear Lodge Tours.

You can also bring your own equipment, as there are no rentals in Churchill. A unique reason for snorkeling in Churchill is the chance to share the pristine waters with the friendly Beluga whales, who have their young each spring in the Churchill and Seal Rivers.

You can also go SCUBA diving with a dry suit from late July to early August, but you must bring your own tanks. Tanks can be filled prior to departure for Churchill if you obtain the necessary Dangerous Goods Certification papers, or you can fill your tanks in town at the local hospital-an easier option. Beware, this option is only available to experienced divers, local guides will not take novices out to dive in the river.

ALTERNATIVES One of the best facilities for information on year-round learning and volunteering opportunities is the Churchill Northern Studies Centre. The CNSC offers independent Learning Vacations as well as Elderhostel courses. Courses on Churchill's highlights including northern astronomy and the Aurora Borealis, cultural heritage, birding and wildlife photography are suitable for all ages. The accommodations are basic and dorm-style, but the experience is well worth a bit of roughing it.

Churchill Northern Studies Centre (CNSC):
P.O. Box 610, Churchill, Manitoba,
Canada R0B 0E0
(204) 675-2307
fax: (204) 675-2139
cnsc@churchillmb.net

There are also opportunities to learn about the local aboriginal culture. Dene drumming and caribou hair tufting classes may be available at the Arctic Trading Company

Arctic Trading Company
(204) 675-8804
atcpenny@mts.net

TOURING While independent travelers can view the northern lights and Beluga whales on their own, for Polar bear watching outside of town, it's best to take a tundra buggy or hire a guide.

Many local outfitters and tour operators provide a variety of excursions for all seasons--tundra buggies, heli-tours, hovercraft trips and historical or cultural tours--that can be booked upon your arrival or through your travel agent. Reservations are highly recommended if you're planning to visit during peak season of October and November, but local operators will do everything in their power to accommodate drop-in requests any time of year. As with anything in this harsh and sometimes unpredictable climate, tours and activities are always held on a weather permitting basis. Most can be arranged through:

North Star Travel and Tours
Toll-free 1-800-665-0690
(204) 675-2356

Nature First Tours & Transportation
(204) 675-2147

For unique snorkeling or SCUBA opportunities:

Sea North Tours Ltd
39 Franklin Street, Box 222
Churchill, Manitoba, Canada, R0B 0E0.
(204) 675-2195

Lazy Bear Tours
Lazy Bear Lodge, Kelsey Blvd
(204) 675-2656

There are also several specialty lodges with tours--short flights from Churchill-that are accessible by helicopter or small plane. A full list is available from the Churchill Chamber of Commerce or Travel Manitoba.

offers seasonal eco-tourism adventures March through November.
Toll-free 1-888-ECOSEAL
(204) 675-8875

June through September, North Knife Lake Lodge offers the region's best in fly-in fishing for northern pike, lake trout, walleye, whitefish and Arctic grayling.
Toll-free 1-888-932-2377
webbers@mts.net

September through February, a variety of hunting opportunities--including geese, ptarmigan, and caribou--are available in the region through Dymond Lake Lodge
Toll-Free 1-888-932-2377
webbers@mts.net

For other lodges and tour operators, check the Town of Churchill website
townofchurchill.ca or GoNOMAD.com's listings.

LODGINGS

Accommodations in Churchill are limited, so it's best to book well in advance--even a year ahead--if you plan to visit during peak bear season of October or November. For a complete list of options, contact Travel Manitoba or check polarbearalley.com.

Accommodations range from basic rooms at the Iceberg Inn to the cozy, log-cabin atmosphere of the Lazy Bear Lodge, to fully-equipped, two story suites at the Aurora Inn. Average rate is $70-100 CDN per night from December-September and $100-200 per night during the peak polar bear season, (October/November).

The Polar Inn & Suites operates a nice place conveniently located in town

Toll-free 1-877-765-2733
(204) 675-8878
polarinn@mts.net

Clean spacious rooms are available at the centrally located Tundra Inn which also offers an adjacent dining room and lounge.
(204) 675-8831
info@tundrainn.com

The Bear Country Inn offers a nice atmosphere and is priced right for the budget traveler.
(204) 675-8299
bearcinn@mts.net

Fully-equipped suites are available at the centrally located Aurora Inn
Toll-free 1-888-840-1344
EATS

Everything is casual in Churchill; leave your dinner jacket and fancy clothes at home. Menus often feature locally caught fish or meats, but prices are a little higher than you might expect because everything else has to be brought in by air or rail.

A great, casual place for people watching is the local favorite, Gypsy's Bakery, with European-style pastry, a deli, and a full liquor license. The Reef at the Seaport Hotel also offers full-service dining as well as the Captain's Cove lounge for a bit of nightlife.

During the peak bear season of October and November, it's best to make a reservation, or dine early or late to avoid any lineups. Gypsy Bakery and the Reef are open year-round, the rest are open from May to December.

You can also purchase grocery and sundry items at The Northern Store which carries a limited supply of everything from eggs to clothing and housewares. Watch out though, the Northern Store closes at 6 pm (except Fridays at 8 pm) and is not open Sundays.

SHOPPING

Don't come to Churchill looking for extensive shopping opportunities. There is little other than typical souvenirs and local handcrafts. But those looking for aboriginal art will be in for a pleasant surprise. Fabulous works of soapstone and whalebone carvings, as well as beautifully beaded moccasins and mukluks, are easy to find. The Crossroads Cultural Arts Co-op is a locally-run, non profit coop featuring artwork and crafts produced in Churchill.

The Eskimo Museum, Northern Images and Arctic Trading Company all have a wide selection of soapstone artwork, prints, books and souvenirs. Wapusk General Store, located in a beautifully-crafted log building, focuses more on silver jewelry and glasswear.

HAPPENINGS There aren't too many cultural events going on in Churchill, but three major festivals are celebrated: the Aurora Winter Fest, held mid-March; the July 1^st Canada Day Celebrations; and Parks Day, celebrated each July 16^th at national parks and historic sites across Canada.

The Aurora Winter Fest is held the middle weekend in March. In addition to the free show put on by the northern lights, this winter festival offers an assortment of activities including dog sledding, trapping events such as log splitting, moose calling, snowshoe racing, fireworks and the best in northern entertainment.

The Hudson Bay Quest is a 250-mile long dog sled race between Churchill, Manitoba and Arviat, Nunavut. It is held in conjunction with the Aurora WinterFest and includes a musher's feast and start/finish line events.

On July 1^st--Canada Day--a truly spectacular event takes place in Churchill. In teams of four, town's people and visitors alike don crazy costumes and celebrate the coming of summer with the 'Bay dip' into the frigid waters of Hudson Bay. Anyone can enter. Canada Day celebrations also include a parade, baseball tournament, puppet show and an evening dance followed by fireworks.

Canada's annual Parks Day, held each July 16^th is a special event during which national parks and historic sites put on historically themed skits highlighting the rich heritage of each region. Details change each year. Check with Parks Canada for further details.

WEATHER

Churchill is a place of extremes. There's lots of snow that stays around up to 10 months of the year, with July and August being the only time you're pretty much safe from the white stuff. Temperatures in this frozen land can be deadly--even during what's considered spring in most parts of the world. An insulated parka or jacket with hood, thermal snow boots, thick mitts or heavy gloves, a wool hat or toque, long underwear, and a balaclava or thermal shield to completely cover your face and neck are essential for visits anytime from late October until April.

Travelers can rent most of these items from various merchants in town, including the Polar Inn
1-877-765-2733, (204) 675-8878. During July and August, temperatures can soar above 30 C (90 F), so it's best to arrive prepared with layers of clothing suitable for spring through fall weather. Bring a hat, shades, shorts-and plenty of bug repellent. Hiking boots and sunglasses are recommended anytime of year, as Churchill is sunny whether the outside temperature is 60 below zero or 60 above. For current weather conditions and forecasts: Environment Canada
weather.ec.gc.ca/forecast/yyq.html

GETTING THERE There are only three ways to get to Churchill--by air, by train or by boat. No roads lead to Churchill, and if you wanted to go driving around it, you would have a short trip--the roads end just outside town. Unless you come by boat, Winnipeg--the capital city of Manitoba--will be your transfer point for travel to Churchill from both North American and global destinations.

Planes

If arriving by air, it's a two and a half-hour flight from Winnipeg to Churchill. It's a 20 to 30 minute drive from the airport to town, depending on the weather. Most tour operators and facilities will pick you up at the airport. Air travel is via Calm Air, a regional partner of Canadian Airlines. Average fare is $900-1000 CDN round-trip from Winnipeg, with 14-day advance booking.

Calm Air
Call toll-free within Canada: 1-800-665-1177
From the U.S.: 1-800-426-7000; (204) 675-2913.

If your destination is the Churchill Northern Studies Centre, it's a 20-30 minute drive in the opposite direction from the town site. In winter, the road often gets blown over with snowdrifts and travel may be impossible until the weather clears or the road has been plowed.

Many accommodations offer pickup from the airport or train depot. A cab to/from the airport runs $20 CDN round-trip plus tax, and $10 CDN round-trip plus tax to/from the train station.

Trains

It's a 36-hour train ride from Winnipeg to Churchill. This northerly stretch of VIA rail stops at many small communities along the way as it navigates carefully through the bog. Many travelers enjoy the leisurely pace as an opportunity to interact with northern residents.

The train station is right in town, so in pleasant weather, it's an easy walk down the street to many of the in-town accommodations. However, you should expect the train to be late! Scheduled to arrive at 8:30 am, it often drifts into town around 11 am or even 2-3 pm. A one-day trip by train is no longer recommended; if you are traveling by train schedule at least two or three days in town.

Call VIA Rail toll-free at: 1-888-VIARAIL or direct to Churchill at (204) 675-2149
Web site: viarail.ca

Travelers from the U.S. can book through Amtrak. Average fare is $300 CDN round-trip from Winnipeg. Roomettes or bedrooms can run $700-800. If you want to drive, the best option is to travel to Thompson, Manitoba. Store your vehicle at McCreedy Campground, which is secure. You can also park at the town hall, but vehicles there have been vandalized. Then travel overnight from Thompson to Churchill by train. Average economy fare is $120 roundtrip.

(Thanks to Debbie Wappula of Minnesota for tips on safe parking in Thompson. She says her friends who parked at the town hall returned to "an RV with broken windows, a flat tire, and spray paint," and she added the lady at McCreedy Campground "put the 'friend' in 'friendly Manitoba'!!")

Boats

While there are several whale-watching boats in town, there is only one cruise ship currently serving Churchill during the summer. CruiseNorth makes a stop to load/offload around the last week of July.

GETTING AROUND

There is no public transportation and no airport car rentals, however, there are two local taxi companies, Churchill Taxi (675-2345) and Kookum's Taxi. Both provide local transportation and area tours on demand.

Pickup trucks can be rented in town from Tamarack Rentals--for the truly adventurous. It's a good way to get out of town, but there is only about 30 kilometers of road system, some of which is only accessible in the summer. Fortunately, most hotels, lodges, tour operators and other facilities will pick you up, and most things in town are within walking distance.

There are two local tour companies offering day trips of the Churchill area. North Star Tours (204) 675-2356, and Nature First Tours (204) 675-2147. North Star focuses more on cultural and historical tours while Nature First mixes hiking and driving.

MONEY

There is one bank in Churchill, the Royal Bank. Its hours are 11 am - 4 pm Monday through Friday. It is centrally located in the BayPort Plaza, between the Seaport Hotel and the post office. There is an ATM available in the BayPort Plaza, it is open from 10 am - 9 pm daily throughout the peak tourist season. The Plaza is closed on Sundays from November through May. Individual ATMs are also available at the Seaport Hotel, Royal Canadian Legion, Northern Store and Nanuk Entertainment in the Town Centre complex.

COMMUNICATIONS

There are no cybercafes in town, but there are several computer terminals at the public library available for public use. Check the Town Centre complex for library hours.
The Seaport Hotel offers free internet use in the lobby, primarily for guests but you could probably sneak in. Several local hotels will also provide internet access upon request.

HEALTH AND SAFETY

The Churchill Regional Health Authority is a 31-bed hospital located in the Town Centre complex. It is not equipped to perform any surgeries, so patients are assessed on site, and then if it cannot be handled locally, they are flown to the city of Winnipeg, (2.5 hours by air.) The Churchill Regional Health Authority has an on-site pharmacy, as well as a dental and medical clinic. The hospital welcomes calls from anyone intending on visiting Churchill who may have specific questions about their health or medical requirements.

Churchill Regional Health Authority Patient Services
(204) 675-8319 It's a good idea to bring a full supply of any medication you may require during your visit--and remember to pack it in your carry-on luggage. Checked baggage may be bumped on its way to Churchill, depending on the aircraft used for your specific flight.

RESOURCES

Travel Manitoba
toll-free 800-665-0040 (extension ABO)
(204) 945-3777, ext. ABO
travelmanitoba.com

Town of Churchill
(204) 675-8871
townofchurchill.ca

Churchill Chamber of Commerce
toll-free: 1-888-389-2327
(204) 675-2022

By Toccoa Switzer

There is something gritty about the isle of Bonaire. I feel it the minute I set foot on the ground. I also taste it. It may be the dry, scrubby terrain. Or maybe it is the thick, salty air. Perhaps, it is a little bit of both.

Each year, tourists flock to Bonaire, fifty miles north of Venezuela, with snorkels and flippers in tow. Part of the Netherlands Antilles, it boasts one of the most environmentally renowned Marine Parks in the world, claiming over 300 species of tropical fish and over 120 different types of coral.

As a certified scuba diver, I am downright giddy at the prospect of swimming among schools of yellow-striped goatfish, peacock flounder and blue-headed wrasse.

But it is what lies above the water that captures my attention. At the southern most tip of the island, I notice a range of cone-shaped mountains, the color of snow. They dot the barren landscape like pyramids in an Egyptian desert.

Suddenly, I’m obsessed. I want to know more about these mysterious white hills. I ask my fellow divers but no one seems to know much or to care for that matter.

One shrugs. “They are probably just big sand dunes.”

My luck turns when I meet an expatriate, a retired American engineer, walking along Winsock beach. Sporting baggy swim trunks, a three-month-old tan and dive mask strapped to his head, he gives me the lowdown.

The expat explains how the island’s dry arid weather and steady trade winds make it an ideal location for solar salt production. The topography also plays a key role.“Those are mounds of sea salt” he says. “It’s Bonaire’s oldest industry, a lot older than the diving industry.”

The flat shoreline allows the sea to fill shallow pools, known as salinas. As the salt water sits, the sun and wind evaporate the water, leaving the salt behind to crystallize.

When Spanish explorers claimed the island in 1499, they overlooked the salt pans. In fact, they dubbed Bonaire an agricultural wasteland due to its poor soil quality.

So they moved the native Arawak Indians to the island of Hispaniola, now the Dominican Republic, to work in copper mines and turned Bonaire into a cattle ranch.

The tide changed in 1634, the year the Netherlands seized Bonaire from Spain. The Dutch saw immediate potential in the salinas and wasted no time in setting up shop.

Like sugar, salt ranked as one of the world’s most precious commodities, its uses ranging from tanning animal hides to preserving meats and fish.

But harvesting sea salt proved to be a long and tedious process. Lacking enough manpower, the Dutch imported African slaves, many from the Congo and Angola, to toil the salt pans.

The slaves spent their days wading through the slushy brine, sifting salt crystals by hand. Their only tools were simple wooden rakes. At night, they slept in stone huts at the edge of the salt pans.

Today, the people of Bonaire have restored a dozen of these structures, a solemn reminder of the island’s dark days of slavery.

Four 30-foot-high stone obelisks have also been restored. The Dutch used these tapered pillars to guide cargo ships to specific loading areas. Each obelisk was painted a different color. Red, white and blue represented the colors of the Dutch flag while the fourth one, a bright orange, signified the Royal House of Orange.

The obelisks were spread out among the salt pans. The workers signaled a ship’s captain where to drop anchor simply by raising a flag to match the color of the corresponding obelisk.

“The obelisks still get plenty of use,” adds the expat.

“By cargo ships?” I ask.

“No.” He smiles. “They make great markers for us divers and of course the flamingoes.”

“Flamingoes?”

“They feed and nest in the salt pans.”

It turns out Bonaire is one of the few breeding grounds in the world for flamingoes. More than 10,000 flamingoes call the island home, many of them taking up residence in Pekelmeer, a 135-acre sanctuary created by Cargill Incorporated, the current owner and operator of the solar salt facility.

I also learn that flamingos aren’t really pink but grayish-white. The birds change color from feeding in the salt pans. As you drive south on the island past the dive sites you can see a series of ponds, some brown, some green, others coral red depending on their levels of algae and bacteria. The rosier colors reflect higher levels of saline.

Shellfish, which live at the bottom of the ponds, eat the salt-loving bacteria that produce the same red cartonoid pigment found in tomatoes and red peppers. Flamingoes, in turn, eat the shellfish, resulting in their signature pink shade.

“So where can I buy sea salt?” I ask the expat. I visualize canisters of gourmet sea salt, the perfect gift item for my family and friends.

“Why?”

“For sprinkling on food.”

He shakes his head. “Bonaire’s sea salt is great for sprinkling but only on icy roads. Most of the island’s sea salt is shipped away for industrial use. You won’t find any culinary stuff here.”

Later that afternoon, I walk to the town market and spot a street vendor with a display of condiments and spices, including plastic containers of sea salt

I snatch up a bottle of the grainy white crystals and clutch it close to my chest. “I’ll take eight,” I tell the vendor. I feel triumphant – also a bit smug.

It is not until I’m back in my room that I turn my own shade of pink. While packing the sea salt, I notice one of the labels. It reads: “From South Africa.”

Travel Details –

Bonaire, Netherlands Antilles

Flights:

Continental Airlines offers one direct flight per week from Houston to Bonaire. The Houston departure leaves on Friday nights around midnight and arrives in Bonaire early Saturday morning. The same aircraft departs Bonaire that same morning with a late morning arrival in Houston. The flight time is 4 hrs and 34 minutes. Find flights to Bonaire

American Airlines offers daily non-stop service between Miami and neighboring island, Curacao. The flight time is 2 hrs and 50 minutes. Three local carriers offer convenient connections to Bonaire. The flight time between Curacao and Bonaire is only 20 minutes. Divi Divi Air offers flights every hour.

When to Go:

High season is mid-December through mid-April. However, there really isn’t a bad time to visit Bonaire. The average air temperature is 81.5 degrees while the average water temperature is 80 degrees. It receives less than 22 inches of rainfall per year and is blessed by mild trade winds that keep it balmy and pleasant year round.

Destination Highlights:

Bonaire National Marine Park

The Marine Park includes the sea around Bonaire from the high water mark to the depth of 60 meters (200 ft). The admission fee is $25 for SCUBA divers and $10 for non-SCUBA divers. The fee also includes admission to the Washington Slagbaai National Park.

Washington Slagbaai National Park

Located on the northwest part of the island, this sanctuary serves as a nesting ground for all four species of sea turtles found in the Caribbean. It is also a habitat for parrots, flamingos, parakeets and iguanas. The park includes a museum and hiking paths. One trail leads to Mount Brandaris, the highest peak of the island at 784 ft.

Donkey Sanctuary

The Dutch originally brought donkeys to Bonaire to help work the salt pans. Today, the Donkey Sanctuary is home to over 300 rescued donkeys. Be sure to bring some bread or fruit to hand-feed the donkeys. There is no entrance fee but a donation would be appreciated. Another option is the drive-through Donkey Paradise Safari Park which opened in March of 2006. The cost is $6.00 per person. Operating hours are from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM.

Toccoa Switzer lives in Charlotte, North Carolina, where she has worked in a number of capacities including banker, tree farmer and freelance writer.

By Laurie Ellis

Sure, it’s really nice to go the British Virgin Islands to relax, but in my opinion it’s even better to go to the BVI and swim! Lucky for me there’s an outfit called SwimTrek.

There are many choices for people looking for active vacations: biking, hiking, kayaking, etc., but I had never heard of a vacation that catered to swimmers.

Based in the UK, SwimTrek is the brainchild of Simon Murie. Murie started his company in 2003 after a successful English Channel crossing in 2002, and now offers trips in over ten countries.

More recently, another company, SwimVacation, has started to offer swim trips to the BVI as well. George "Hopper" McDonough started SwimVacation in 2007 and hopes to add more trips to the Caribbean and North America in the future.

You’re doing what?!

When I casually mentioned my intention to go on a swimming holiday, my friends and family responded with a mix of disbelief and concern. "You’re a pool swimmer," they’d say, or "You hate swimming where there are 'things' in the water," (both true) or better yet: the blank stare.

My mother was sure I’d be eaten by a shark, or at the very least nibbled on by a barracuda. Well, I lived to write about my experience, so obviously I wasn’t a shark snack. Swimming along, I saw some beautiful fish among the coral, and even a few barracuda and rays, but they paid me no mind.

The water was crystal clear – that blue/green/turquoise that you only see on screen-savers and commercials, and best of all, the water and air were WARM. I don’t like cold water, so 80 degrees was just fine. Pools are typically a little cooler to give you an idea of the temperature around the British Virgin Islands in April.

Days of boats and swimming

Our base for the week was the exquisitely situated Leverick Bay Resort and Marina on Virgin Gorda, where each room had a balcony overlooking the bay.

After a short introductory swim on the first night, we were divided into three groups according to speed, and each group was given a different color swimcap to wear for the week.

The caps allowed the guides in the boats to keep track of everyone. It just so happened that we ended up in three groups of five. For the next five days, we would swim with our designated group.

It’s not as rigid as it sounds; on other trips people have been known to switch groups as their speeds changed, but that didn’t happen with us.

Most days we did two swims, one in the morning after a healthy breakfast in the guides’ suite, and one after lunch, which we had on the boat while anchored at a prime snorkeling spot.

When we got to the swim’s starting point we were given something to sight/swim toward like “See the road above and behind that little island?” or “the second larger hill to the left of the antenna.”

Safety first

We’d smile and nod, or argue about it, and then set off trusting that Lizzie or Simon or Mike, the boat pilot, would reel us in if we veered too far off track. We did and they did. It all worked out fine.

While swimming, I could always see one of the small support boats or the big boat, as well as my other yellow-capped group members. I felt completely safe even as I rocked and rolled my way through some rougher water.

I knew that if I needed help, all I had to do was wave my arms in the air and I would get picked up within seconds. The guides were also very careful to keep us properly hydrated. They would stop us on occasion to toss us water bottles. Due to the sun and salt exposure, it was really important to drink along the way.

Swims ranged from 2 kilometers (1.2 miles) to 4.5km (2.8 miles), and the longest total distance for any one day was 7km (4.35 miles).

Starting times were staggered, with intervals allowing everyone to reach the end point at about the same time. The first group would start swimming, and based on how far off track they were pushed by the current, the next group would get a new target to swim toward.

Simon says… SWIM!

The SwimTrek motto is “Ferries are for wimps. Let’s swim,” but their trips are not competitive events.

The other swimmers on the BVI trip came from a variety of backgrounds: some had never done any competitive swimming, while others had a long history of racing experience.

Some had given up swimming for years and only recently come back to it, the common factor being a desire to swim in open water.

The ages ranged from 18 to 72, and everyone was able to swim according to their ability. The SwimTrek staff is really helpful, and worth talking to when deciding which trip to take.

The website also has a suggested training schedule geared toward each trip. A reasonable level of fitness and the ability to do long swims is crucial to full enjoyment of a trip like this.

Maybe it’s the chocolate

SwimTrek must be doing something right. Four of my fellow BVI swimtrekers were repeat customers and couldn’t say enough positive things about the trips they had been on: Greece, Croatia, Malta. On day 3 after a long smooth 4.5km coastal swim, we were relaxing in a gorgeous harbor thinking that all is right with the world.

Just when we thought it couldn’t get any better, there was Simon swimming one-armed toward us with a bag of chocolates held aloft. Wow. As I found out, chocolate is a great antidote to a salty mouth.

Trains, planes, ferries…

The destinations are somewhat off the beaten path, and may involve taking smaller planes or catching a ferry, but for good reason. Wonderful swimming with less concern about heavy boat traffic more than makes up for the extra effort involved in getting to the starting point.

Odds and ends

Sun issues:

The last thing I wanted to do was wear a long-sleeve shirt, but the Caribbean sun, even in mid-April, can be brutal. I bought a rashguard from Victory Tropiskin that worked great at protecting me from the sun without adding much drag. SwimTrek brought along rashguards, to borrow and/or buy, and thankfully carried a good supply of sunscreen onboard.

Food:

Lizzie was a wiz in the kitchen, whipping up breakfasts, and preparing lunches to eat on the boat. Dinners were on our own so we were able to sample a couple of the islands’ restaurants.

Since we often ate out as a group, it was helpful to have cash. One downside was that Leverick Bay didn’t have an ATM machine, so some of us had to get into town mid-week.

Note: renting a car for a day cost about the same as taking a taxi into town and back.

Compare:

SwimTrek and SwimVacation offer similar trips to BVI, but there are some important differences. Look over the websites and see which one fits your style better.

Good to know:

Non-swimming companions are welcome on both companies’ trips. SwimVacation has information on their site, SwimTrek’s staff can help with the pricing details if you call or email them.

And another thing:

This is a group trip. The guides have to keep people in groups for the safety of all. If you’re much faster than everyone else, you might get held up. Likewise, if you’re much slower, you might be encouraged to go a little faster.

If you have any concerns, talk to the staff before signing up to make sure you’ll be able to get the swim holiday you want …or just make sure to bring some friends that swim the same speed!

Do it again?

You bet! I’m already thinking of where I want to go on my next SwimTrek vacation.

Laurie Ellis is a massage therapist in Cambridge, Massachusetts, and has the good fortune to swim at the Harvard pools in winter and Walden Pond in summer. Photo by Ian Griffith

Awestruck Again: Three Jaded Travelers Find Paradise in Palau

By Dave Vedder

Three of us, all world travelers, were sitting on a rickety dock, sipping white wine, watching for the Southern Cross and reliving our exotic adventures in Palau.

Our group consisted of me, a globetrotting fishing writer, Peter Guttman, internationally acclaimed photographer and author of many adventure travel articles and books, and Teddie Anderson, Micronesia travel expert.

Between us we had visited more than 170 countries on every continent, but on this sparkling clear night we were as awestruck as a cou

ntry boy on his first visit to the city.

For more than an hour, our small group sat silent as we mentally replayed the unique and amazing adventures of the past few days.

Finally, Teddie asked each of us to choose which of the kaleidoscope of sights and adventures we would rank as our favorite.

To start things off, she declared that kayaking through the hauntingly beautiful Rock Islands was the most memorable part of a truly amazing adventure. Peter, who has traveled the globe in search of unique adventures voted for the snorkeling in Jellyfish Lake. For me, the hunter-gatherer in our group, the very recent late night trek through the jungle in search of land crabs was clearly the highlight.
Fruit Bat Soup

Yet, our lunch of fruit bat soup had to be seriously considered, if only because there is nowhere else on the planet where this particular dish might be had in a roadside diner. And we all agreed that the birthing ceremony in Koror was indeed a once-in-a-lifetime treat. In truth, we were all right: any one of the recent sights and adventure we had shared might be considered reason enough to make the very long flight to this far flung corner of Micronesia.

Palau is far from any other islands, but a little bit near the Philippines. And choosing only one piece of the marvelous montage of sight, sounds, smells and adventures available in Palau does not do justice to the entire experience.

Peter was adamant that Jellyfish Lake should be remembered by all of us as the high point in our travels. He made a great point. Palau is the only country on the planet that has fresh water lakes inhabited by millions of, golden colored, delicate jellyfish.

The name Jellyfish Lake is a bit confusing since there are at least a half dozen fresh water lakes that are home to the very rare fresh water jellyfish.

Because so little is known about these fragile and rare creatures, several of the lakes are off limits to visitors. We visited two lakes -- Jellyfish Lake and Secret Jellyfish Lake to swim with the fishes -- jellyfishes.

Both lakes required a short trip by water taxi through the spectacular Rock Islands that surround Palau’s largest Island; and both lakes require a short hike through untamed jungle to reach their shores.

As we approached Jellyfish Lake, we could see the jellyfish -- thousands, perhaps millions of unspeakably beautiful and graceful golden jellyfish pulsed and pushed again the crystalline waters forming a galaxy of life that made the hairs on the back of my neck stand straight up.

Sam, our guide, told us we could swim with the jellyfish if we liked. He assured us they were completely harmless. In fact, the Palaun government is concerned that swimmers might harm the jellyfish. So fragile are they that a careless kick of a swim fin might mortally wound a half dozen of these extremely rare creatures. We removed our fins and began ever so slowly snorkeling across the lake.

Even knowing how rare and fragile these creatures are, it was difficult not to try to touch them. We resisted and instead simply floated among clouds of one of nature’s most remarkable creatures.

Teddi agreed that few natural wonders can match Palau’s many Jellyfish lakes but she still voted for the kayak trip through thee Rock Islands. The nation of Palau consists of some 350 islands, arranged in six clusters. The largest, Babeldaob, is 396 square kilometers. But many of the islands are small, and some are tiny, green-capped rocks no larger that a house.

While all the islands of Palau are beautiful, the Rock Islands are magical. Our small group rented kayaks for a day trip through the Rock islands. A short ride in an open "panga" brought us to the heart of this enchanted sprinkling of emerald islands.

The smaller islands were little more than rock pillars sprouting above the turquoise shallows. The soft limestone rock erodes near the waterline resulting in whimsical islets with tops much larger that the bottoms. Many look like fairy mushrooms frosted with green caps of every imaginable sort of jungle flora.

Scattered among the beauty of these tropical islands are grim reminders of the folly of man. Old concrete pillboxes remain from the bloody Pacific battles of World War II.

In several places, Japanese Zeros remain where they fell during aerial battles. One lies in water less than ten feet deep. We stopped to snorkel around the rusty remains of a Japanese aviator’s war machine and final resting place.

Seventy Islands

One group of islands, locally known as "Seventy Islands," is very likely the most photographed area in Palau. Here, long serpentine islands wind around each other forming a maze of canals, lagoons and protected bays that beckons travelers to come explore, tread on a beach with no other footstep and simply celebrate being a part of this marvelous planet.

A kayak trip through the Rock Islands is a passage though paradise that very few ever experience.

While I agreed that the Rock Islands are a not-to-be missed experience, my favorite Palau adventure was the midnight jungle crab hunt. After a full day of kayaking and snorkeling, we spent a quiet evening at Carp Island, one of the myriad outlying islands.

Carp Island is home to the ultra secluded Carp Island Resort, consisting of a few bare wood floor cabins with running warm water and few other amenities. Its lure is the pristine white sand beach in front of the cabins, obligatory hammocks and the untouched jungle that begins at the back door of the kitchen.

Most Carp Island guests come for the quiet beaches and the world-class SCUBA diving opportunities found in nearby waters. We came just to relax after a very full week of diving, fishing and island hopping.

I would have been well pleased with Carp Island even without the jungle crab hunt. But I admit this unexpected adventure was a highlight of the trip for me. After a simple dinner of fresh caught fish, we were sipping a glass of white wine when one of the staff asked if any of us cared to join the crab hunt.

I was a bit concerned that a midnight trek in the depth of the jungle might be the Micronesian equivalent of a snipe hunt, but we all agreed that one can’t pass up the chance to hunt jungle crabs when such an opportunity presents itself.

Shortly before midnight, five travelers and five Carp Island staff members headed into the jungle. Our only tools were a handful of sputtering flashlights and a big plastic laundry tub.

Before we had gone more than a few yards, someone shouted, "There’s one!" and crashed off through the vines and lush undergrowth. Seconds later, he returned with a very unhappy crab that very much resembled a 1/3 scale model of the Dungeness crab found in my home waters.

Into the tub the crab went and the hunt continued. As we grew accustomed to the dark and became better attuned to what we were looking for, we became ardent crab hunters. By sweeping our flashlights across the jungle floor, we could spot the crabs as they scuttled for shelter from the light. Finding the crabs was easy.

Picking them up required teamwork. One of us would use a large stick to pin the crab to the ground while someone else gingerly grabbed the crab behind the pincers and flipped it into the tub.

All around us, the jungle was alive with unseen creatures. A cacophony of bat shrieks, frog croaks, bird screams and indescribable noises emanating from who-knew-what constantly reminded us that we were in a tropical jungle.Once we had approximately 40 crabs in our tub, we made our way back to camp.

Cooking the Crabs

I was surprised to learn that we had very nearly circumnavigated the small island in a bit more than an hour. Back at camp, we turned the crabs over to the camp cook who soon had them boiled and ready for our dining pleasure. We feasted on fresh jungle crab cracked with knife handles, hammers and any other solid objects we could find.

The meat was tender and succulent, but the small size of the crabs assured that one would never get full from eating them.

After our crab feast, three of us sat on the dock sipping wine and proving to each other how little we knew about the Southern constellations.

As we each relived our most memorable moments in Palau, it became clear to me the Palau is indeed a Pacific paradise. One where the oft-overused word, unique, is barely adequate to explain its varied and wonderful treasures.

Yes, we were jaded travelers, but Palau proved to us that there are still places on earth that can instill that thrilling sense of wonder and awe that sends us off on our wild adventures in the first place.

By Ann Banks

“That is not a seal!” said our guide Ceci, in her mockstern-teacher voice. “That is a sea lion. Does anyone know how to tell the difference?” I looked around. It was the first shore excursion of our Galapagos cruise and we passengers on the MY Ericwere just getting acquainted.

Someone did know: Chad --who, with his oversized canary-yellow sunglass frames and black sneakers with matching yellow shoelaces, was easily the hippest looking of our group. He’d majored in biology, it turned out, and could effortlessly reel off sentences like, “Speciation occurs when...”

“Sea lions,” he said, “have ears.”

A few days later, it was hard to believe that I’d been ignorant of this fundamental feature of my new favorite mammal. Or that I’d associated bird-watching with boredom. (Their sex lives alone!) Or that I’d thought of evolution by natural selection as an abstract scientific concept, not as a process whose effects were wonderfully manifest right before my eyes – bird beak by bird beak, cactus spine by cactus spine. My week on the Eric turned me into a much more acute observer of nature.

The Galapagos archipelago is one of the most physically remote spots on earth -- a group of 15 main islands and many smaller ones, directly on the Equator, about 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador, to which they belong.

It is that very isolation that put these islands on the map, so to speak, ensuring their place in the history of science. In 1835, the young Charles Darwin visited the Galapagos on a research expedition, and the islands provided him with the key puzzle pieces for his theory that species are not fixed, but transform over time to fit their particular environment.

In the Galapagos, Darwin wrote, “we seem to be brought somewhat near to that great fact--that mystery of mysteries--the first appearance of new beings on this earth.”

Ninety percent Natural Park

More than 90 percent of the land area of the Galapagos has been set aside as a national park, and although hundreds of tour boats ply the islands, they do so under strict conditions designed to protect the fragile ecosystem. I was fortunate to travel with Ecoventura, a family-owned, small-ship cruise company with a dedication to the environment that goes beyond the minimum requirements.

We encountered other tour boats, but thanks to deft time-management by our guides we had the places to ourselves more often than not. There were 20 of us on board the Ericand during our twice-daily walks we split up into groups of ten, comparing notes on our sightings back on board. (“Did you spot the baby frigate bird pretending to fly?”)

My fellow passengers on the Eric ranged in age from 20’s to 70’s. Despite the generational disparities, we bonded with one another and with our two naturalist guides, Yvonne Mortola, and Cecibel Guerrero. Yvonne and Ceci were knowledgeable about the Park, highly entertaining and impossible to stump.

Ceci is a natural comic, and she liked to intersperse her remarks with imitations of the animal she was describing – on one occasion, cocking her head to one side and hopping up and down to impersonate a finch. Our guides’ passion for their subject matter was contagious, and before long we all were eagerly absorbing some elementary fauna facts, like why the Galapagos gull is nocturnal (less hunting competition), how the Magnificent Frigate Bird attracts a mate (by inflating a red balloon-like sac in his neck), and what marine iguanas do to keep themselves warm (snuggle up with one another).

These last were the same iguanas that had so disgusted Darwin when he visited. Browsing through his account of the trip in “The Voyage of the Beagle,” I found his uncharitable description of them as “hideous reptiles” and “stupid and sluggish.”

Reptilian they are. Motionless as statues and the same sooty shade as the lava rock they bask on in great untidy piles, the marine iguanas blend so perfectly into the terrain that it was hard to avoid tripping over them.

Cries of “Watch out for the iguana!” punctuated most of our walks, and I had the fanciful notion that in some wacky version of natural selection these creatures might have evolved specifically to be stepped on by tourists.

Everyone who has written about the Galapagos, from the Bishop of Panama, who discovered the islands by accident in 1535, to Darwin, to Herman Melville to the great naturalist William Beebe, has remarked on the strangeness and tameness of the wildlife. I found that encountering this strangeness and tameness face-to-face brought on a curious Alice-in-Wonderland feeling.

Was that really me, holding the steady and interested gaze of a nesting red-footed booby who was so close I could reach out and touch her? This is strictly forbidden, of course. The rule is to stay six feet away from all wildlife.

Genovesa

Genovesa, the second island we visited, was alive with birds. Swallow-tailed gulls, doves, great frigate birds with their downy-headed chicks, mockingbirds, four species of finches, and of course the boobies, with their big, red clown feet – and all of them seeming as tame as if Pixar had conjured them there.

The Galapagos finches, with their variously shaped beaks, inspired Darwin’s world-shaking insights about adaptation and natural selection. But my personal “Aha” moment was prompted by a cactus.

On Genovesa Island, and only there, grows a species of prickly pear with spines as soft as baby hair. As Ceci explained it to us, the species developed this characteristic because there are neither reptiles to eat it and nor insects to pollinate it. So the pollination job is left to doves and other birds whom prickliness would repel; thus the evolutionary advantage of soft spines. Aha!

Darwin’s time in the Galapagos changed the world, yet I felt I had the edge on him in one respect: Darwin didn’t snorkel. I did, and seeing the Galapagos through a snorkel mask added hugely to my enjoyment of the trip. The fish were not quite as tame as the birds, but there were great clouds of them and they provided us with plenty of eye candy. In William Beebe’s wonderful description, “They were fish, but they were color before they were fish.” Imagine that a rainbow had exploded under water and you will have the idea.

Here is Chad, describing to Ceci, a fish he’d just seen: “It had a triangular-shaped body, and swam like an eel along the cracks in the rocks. It had yellow eyes sticking up on top of its head and was olive-green, with maroon stripes along the side of its face.” Everyone within earshot teased that Chad must have been smoking something, but Ceci instantly knew what it was: large-banded blenny.

Penguins, Reef Sharks and More

In addition to tropical fish, we also saw penguins, reef sharks, diving cormorants and gliding sea turtles, whose gravitas and gently waving flippers,made me think of chubby brown angels. But my most captivating encounters were with creatures entirely lacking in gravitas: Sea lions.

I knew from my pre-trip reading that the Galapagos is washed alternately by warm and cold ocean currents, and that during our October sailing the sea temperature would be 68-70 degrees. These were definitely wet-suit conditions and I might have wished that I’d gone during the warmer season, except for one thing:

Chilly water makes the sea lions frisky. And frolicking with an exuberant young sea lion has to be one of nature’s most joyful adventures.

On the beach, sea lions loll around like so many Beanie Babies. In the water, they are hilarious show-offs. They twirl and spin and somersault and do their best stuff, inviting you to admire them after every pirouette.

When they see they’ve captured your complete attention, they streak away, leaving you fleetingly bereft, and then – zoom! -- they’re back again, for more twirling and whirling and blowing of bubbles.

This rambunctious adolescent male behavior (we guessed) was not the only form of sea lion entertainment. One afternoon Chad and I provided an audience for the sea lion equivalent of a conceited teen-aged girl. She fixed us with a long, sultry stare, and then slowly craned her neck like a starlet offering the paparazzi her best angle. We burst into giggles, flooding our snorkels.

Galapagos 'Jeopardy'

On the final night on the Eric (fair warning if you take this cruise yourself) there is a test. After dinner, Ceci and Yolanda introduced us to a game they had concocted called Galapagos Jeopardy.

We were arbitrarily divided into two groups and instructed to choose a name for our team. It was my team, the Magnificent Frigate Birds, competing against the Albatrosses. Both teams grappled with such questions as:

Which sea bird cannot touch salty water?
The frigate bird.

How many times did we cross the equator?
Four times.

What islands did Charles Darwin visit during his stay in Galápagos?
San Cristóbal, Floreana, Isabela and Santiago.

This reptile can lay more than 100 eggs.
The marine turtle.

The Albatrosses, I am sorry to report, ate our lunch. Of course. They had Chad on their team.

What to Know

If you go to the Galapagos with Ecoventura, you won't have much time for lolling around on the beach like a sea lion. Most days include two guided island walks, sometimes over jagged lava fields; in order to avoid other tour boats, the morning call sometimes comes as early as 5:45. Your reward for these exertions comes in the form of unparalleled natural splendor.

Snorkeling excursions – one or two per day – are optional, but for me they easily doubled the pleasure of the trip. Ecoventura supplies snorkels, masks and fins, as well as wetsuits when needed, but you’re better off bringing your own snorkel and mask. Since my trip was during the cool season (June through November) I invested in neoprene gloves and booties, and was happy for the extra bit of warmth.

The Eric is one of three identical 20-passenger expedition yachts in the Ecoventura fleet. Starting in 2012 the company will offer two alternating 7-night itineraries designed to comply with new regulations meant to mitigate visitor impact on the islands. (Shorter five or six night tours are sometimes available on seasonal departure dates.)

Ecoventura has won awards for green travel and Santiago Dunn, the company president, serves on the board of the World Wildlife Fund. Together with the WWF, Ecoventura has launched education and conservation projects in the Galapagos to strengthen local communities' ability to manage natural resources.

It also recently installed solar panels and wind generators on the Eric, making it the first hybrid vessel in the Galapagos. To learn more about the company’s environmental initiatives and for current rates, schedules and itineraries, log on to or email info@galapagosnetwork.com.

Ann Banks is a journalist based in New York. Her travel writing has appeared in Conde Nast Traveler, The New York Times, and Arthur Frommer Budget Travel, among other magazines. She is a contributing writer for the Travel Intelligence website.