Written by Max Hartshorne

Where’s the Lime?  I found it on Antigua!

By Max Hartshorne
GoNOMAD Editor

I was in search of some warm waters and some adventure.

I found both in abundance on Antigua and Barbuda, a small island nation in the Leeward islands near Domenica, on the near bottom of the arc of Caribbean islands

The young nation, founded in 1981, is known for having an abundance of beaches, one for every day of the year they claim.

You can have all sorts of fun on these many different beaches, from horseback riding to windsurfing, or just plain old nothing.

A rum drink is never too far away.  We met up with a rasta named Sun Fire who keeps a stable of friendly old horses by Fort Beach, and we saddled up for a twilight ride.  Magic!

I did have some trepidation about mounting a horse, with my 200+ pound weight, but the old nags seemed to take it all in stride…a walking stride.

We followed nose to tail, while Sun Fire drove ahead in a little Jeep, making sure we were on the right path following his son, Nicky.

The sun was still high in the sky, but we knew that being on the beach at the right time would be more than a great photo op.  It was bliss!

Where’s The Lime?

About that lime.  What does it mean?  From my native hosts, I learned that people here ask, “where’s the lime” when they want to know where the party is. Where are the people who are liming?

We were enjoying some of the local cuisine at a beachside bar called Beach Limerz.  These dishes include Dukuna and Saltfish, Pepper Pot and Fungi.  We were beach liming!

Pepper Pot is the most famous; it is made of pickled beef, chicken or pork, includes potatoes and broth, and is topped with spinach and other greens.

Fungi are corn fritters, and Dukuna is made with coconut, sweet potatoes, cinnamon, and nutmeg.

Barry and Gail Edwards own the Beach Limerz, it’s truly a place worthy of its moniker–big communal tables you can sit at to eat and meet other people, and a giant wrap around bar with a great view of the beach.

Eco Adventure in the Rainforest

After a relaxing time Beach Liming, and enjoying the local fare, it was time for a little eco-adventure, so we made our way to the island’s rainforest.

Antigua’s national park has a 13-stage zip line with eight different obstacle courses at the end.

These obstacle courses are the most fun part of the zip line, even when the staff jiggle the cable that the participants are trying to walk on!

The zip line goes through the thick rainforest, and it’s fun to bond with your fellow zippers as you go in the same order from station to station.  We got to know a pair of newlyweds from New York and another couple from Canada as we waited our turns to zip.

At the end of the zip line, the obstacles make it more of a challenge, everyone is still hooked onto the main cable so no one will perish, despite the hijinks.

Antiguan Eco Adventures

South Coast Horizon Eco-Fantasies also has some fun in store for visitors who want more from their Caribbean vacation than a tan.

We joined their guide in sit-on kayaks for a short paddle through mangrove forests to a beach where we met up with a man in a boat.

The aquamarine water sprayed us as we hopped over the waves, but the warm water was welcome.  We made our way out to Cades reef just offshore and donned snorkels, masks, and fins.

There is nothing like that silence that engulfs you as you sink your head below the waves and all you have is the fish below you and no sound. It’s a magical feeling, and always worth it.

South Coast Horizon’s Eco Park offers these half-day excursions that include kayaking, reef snorkeling, snacks, and drinks.  It’s a fun diversion during a week at an all-inclusive, where many of the island’s visitors stay.

Sandals Resorts

I haven’t had that many experiences at Sandal’s properties, there are 15 in all, scattered between six islands in the Caribbean.  Their resort on Antigua where we stayed is couples-only and features everything you’d expect, including the swim-up bar, a beachfront location, large rooms with full stocked bars.  And great free Wi-Fi, too.

It’s located on 27 acres on Dickenson Bay, one of the prettiest white sand beaches on the island.

When I checked to the Sandals Grande Antiqua Resort and Spa, I was told that whatever crazy amount of booze I drank, it would all be replaced in the morning. I didn’t touch a thing.

There is also a wood-fired pizza cafe, which dispenses delicious pizzas including my favorite, topped with plantains and chicken, all day and night.

The staff is uniformly friendly, the food was really tasty in Mario’s, one of 11 onsite restaurants that include a sushi bar, a high-end Japanese restaurant, a pub called the Drunken Duck and Eleanor’s, for Pan-Caribbean cuisine.

Antigua is a Sailing Capital

The island’s English Harbour is famous for Nelson’s Dockyard, where 18th and 19th-century houses and other buildings are preserved. This is a major destination for yachtsman, and the dockyard is named after the famous Vice Admiral Horatio Nelson who commanded the British Navy.

Antigua’s British roots are never far away–the island is passionate about the sport of cricket and is considered the yachting capital of the Eastern Caribbean, owing to its location and its safe harbors, English and Falmouth harbor, on the south coast of Antigua.

During Antigua Sailing Week in April, more than 100 yachts converge on English harbor for their big regatta.

Barbuda’s New Resort

I didn’t get to visit the country’s second island, nearby Barbuda, where I was told that actor Robert DeNiro and billionaire Aussie developer James Packer are planning a new luxury resort which will start construction in 2017.

It will be an above-water luxury resort called Paradise Found, with 50 villas. The developers will also beef up Barbuda’s small airstrip.

Barbuda has a deserted resort and only about 1500 residents compared with 80,000 on Antigua. News reports indicate that the actor is joining. They purchased 251 acres of the former K Club and will spend over $250 million developing the area

For an island that’s just 17 miles by 12, Antigua offers a traveler a wealth of fun and a guarantee of sun.

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Written by GoNomad

A family cruise adventure in the South China Sea

By Michelle Lamb

I discovered a way to get back to my diving, and at the same time, enjoy a family vacation. The answer?  A liveaboard boat cruising in the warm waters of the South China Sea.

The Hans Christian Andersen (HCA) liveaboard in the Philippines is the answer to your adventure travel wish and includes some vacation laziness. Divers and snorkelers of all ages enjoy a week of sailing to pristine beaches, untouched reefs, and WWII wrecks in the clear and warm South China Sea.    

My family of four boards the HCA on a sunny and breezy December Saturday afternoon from Batangas, a two hour drive south of Manila.   We soon become a party of 32, greeted by a crew of 26, and set sail into the proverbial sunset while being served tropical drinks.

Although not a luxury cruise, with such a low passenger to crew ratio, the service is always kind and immediate.   By week’s end, we know everyone on board.

Scheduled Dives

Every morning we are given a schedule and explanation of the day’s excursions and scheduled dive times.   My husband and I sign up for the 11 dives offered that week, five of which are wreck dives.

Our children, ages four and ten, either join us on the dive boat and snorkel while waiting for us to surface, play on a nearby island beach, or amuse themselves in the HCA TV/game room area—called the Mermaid Salon.

The HCA has several routes; we chose the Northern Route bringing us to Coron Bay, a WWII wreck diving cemetery, and Apo Reef Natural Reserve, the world’s second-largest contiguous coral reef system—all featuring world-class diving sites.

One of the more interesting wrecks is the Akitsushima, a Japanese seaplane carrier.  

After diving, the Nanshin Maru, a unique surface interval is spent exploring a cave on Black Island.   While the wrecks support beautiful corals and huge schools of fish, Apo Reef presents us with white-tipped reef sharks and turtles.

Pandan Island

Our first stop is the white sand laced Pandan Island.   Every day the ship anchors near equally stunning islands for snorkeling or quiet beach time.  

Most of the beaches are deserted other than a simple palm frond hut or two.   We are brought from the HCA to shore with three different chase boats.

After a guided snorkel and our own discovery time, a gourmet lunch is brought from the HCA to the beach.   The food is fresh and delicious every meal without exception.   Usually, there is a choice of meat and fish or seafood, tropical fruits, homemade bread, rice and various vegetables.  

One night we even have a pig roast on the beach, complete with the crew singing after dinner and of course, more tropical drinks.

The crew serves dinner early to our children, so my husband and I can enjoy happy hour and an adult dinner.   This is our chance to get to know the other passengers better.

The grandparents of one family did the cruise two years earlier and liked it so much, they brought the rest of their family on a second voyage—nine in all.  

The ship’s owner is Danish, so passengers are largely Scandinavian  and range from retired professionals, couples with and without children, and solo travelers exploring   Asia.  

We really hit it off with our fellow divers and plan to meet next year for another dive trip.

The non-beach excursions gave us a slice of rural Philippine life.   We visited three different islands, mostly inhabited by fishermen and farmers.  

Riding in a Sidecar

In Sablayan, Mindoro, much to our children’s delight, we rode in the sidecar of motor-tricycles to a local history museum and market. 

In Culion, a former leper colony, we visited the former hospital, now a museum.   And lastly, Panlaitan, purely a fishing village, we visited the local school and a few of the villagers’ homes.

The HCA provided my family with enough choices to feel like we’ve had a week of adventure travel combined with relaxing excursions and a bonus of forming life-long friendships.   For booking your adventure cruise, see www.hcacruise.com.

Michelle Lamb writes from Guam, has also lived in Europe and the mainland U.S.A.  Read more about her adventures at www.michellesfamilytravel.com

Written by GoNomad

Belize’s Island Paradise- An impromptu solo trip

By Ashton Stockwell

“Whatcha mean ya don’t know where you goin?”

The immigration officer looked at me a bit skeptically as I handed him my arrival document with no information filled out for hotel or resort I’d be staying at — apparently not as common as I assumed.  The truth was, I had no idea where I was going once I arrived in Belize – my initial plan was to just wing it.

It was September, and this was my first solo trip abroad.  I decided to take a chance on this small Central American country wedged between Mexico and Guatemala that I knew little about.  The only research I had done was a quick Google search on my way out the door once my ticket was booked.

Forgot to Call the Bank

How impromptu was my trip? Let’s just say in my rushed excitement to head to the airport I never called to let my bank or phone provider know that I would be leaving the country -rookie mistake.

Once I arrived, essentially stranded in Belize City (the only international airport in Belize), fresh off the plane and ready to explore this lush tropical paradise, I found myself with no money or phone access.  Not the best start, but lessons learned.

“Everything aarite” a broad grin greeted me at the Tropic Air counter – Belize’s largest airline – “I help ya”.  The blend of English and smooth Belizean Kriol from the friendly woman behind the desk put me at ease as she helped me get back up and running.

The silver lining – I had a moment to glance at a map of Belize the grinning lady handed me and decided it would be an island adventure for me.  I would head to Ambergris Caye, the largest of more than 200 Cayes in Belize.

A round trip ticket cost approximately $75 USD. I hopped in the tiny Tropic Air plane next to the pilot, and within twenty minutes over turquoise Caribbean waters I touched down in San Pedro Town.

Golf Cart Get around

Ambergris Caye is approximately 25 miles long and a little over a mile wide with San Pedro Town being the island’s only inhabited area.  Lucky for me, the airstrip is located in the middle of town which made for an easy transition to my next step – find a way to start exploring my new island home.

You won’t find bustling streets of cars and trucks anywhere on the island, the preferred means of getting around are bikes and golf carts, the latter the most popular.  Right outside of the airstrip I found Boaz Golf Cart rentals where I got set up with a cart and tore off into the sandy streets of San Pedro.

It only took me one block to conclude I had made an excellent choice.  I found myself on Barrier Reef Drive (the locals know this as Front street) clustered with artisan boutiques, laid back restaurants, cafes and bars with barefoot patrons happily sipping beer seemingly without a care in the world.

As I proceeded North down the ocean front path I came across Caye Casa, a quiet two story boutique hotel with thatch roof porches and incredible views of the sea and reef.  Another lucky break, I had come in the low tourist season and most hostels and hotels would be completely vacant.

I settled into my colorful casita, propped my feet up with a Belikin (Belize’s own domestic brewed beer) and with the sounds of waves softly crashing against the reef stretched out before me I smiled knowing I was now on Island time.

Shark Alley….

About four miles South East of San Pedro is the most popular snorkeling site in all of Belize — Hol Chan Marine Reserve and Shark Ray Alley.  Once a depleted fishing area where fisherman would clean their catch attracting numerous nurse sharks, this now protected refuge has regenerated into a thriving section of the Barrier Reef teeming with vast marine life from sea turtles to sea cucumbers.  They had me at sharks.  I had to check it out.

My guide for this excursion would be Blinkey, a friendly Sanpedrano who worked at a dive shop that was closed for the low season.  We happened to meet at the Sandbar Beachfront Hostel and Bar (which became my go-to breakfast spot that I still daydream about) where he pointed out his boat docked at the pier across the Palm dotted beach and cheerfully offered to take me.

After grabbing some fins and masks we struck out headed South to Hol Chan.

We soon arrived at Shark Ray Alley where only three or four tour boats were anchored. We were swarmed with schools of jacks, rays and soon the slow gray shadow of the first nurse shark appeared.

I plopped into the shallow water over the side of the boat and followed Blinkey to “the cut” with a depth of 25 ft, where he would point out the species of fish (over 160 species have been identified at Hol Chan), corals and sponges.

As a new boat approached and anticipating bait being thrown in the water, the nurse sharks began schooling nearby.  These creatures move seamlessly by snorkelers without hesitation which offers an excellent up-close experience with some sharks as large as 7 feet and rays which are known to swim straight toward you in hopes of a scrap of fish.

…And shark bait

Belize is known for being a mecca for fishing enthusiasts – which I would consider myself – thanks in part to the Belize Barrier Reef, so I knew while I was there I had to get offshore with a rod in my hand.  My new friend Blinkey had a captain that would take us to the other side of the reef where the dark royal blue water drops off hundreds of feet.

Since blue water is so close to the island, fishing charters are much cheaper with plentiful opportunity for a great catch.  For just $275 USD for a half day charter, I had an entire boat and incredibly accommodating crew to myself.  It was time to go catch dinner.

Within minutes after setting off from the Tackle Box dock we were across the Barrier Reef trolling for Tuna, Wahoo, Dorado and the elusive Billfish.  It wasn’t long until we heard the scream of the reel — we were hooked on!

I grabbed the rod and got to work cranking down as I could hear the captain from the top deck yell down to his deck hand something in his Spanish/Kriol, then “Shark, Shark!”

Right as I understood what was happening, I saw the Bonita (a medium sized member of the tuna family) on the end of my line leaping frantically toward the boat just as a massive black tip shark launched himself out of the water at my fish.

The fight for dinner was on.  I was quick, but Mr. Blacktip was quicker.  I may have lost that battle, but somewhere between our exhilarating shark attack and the sunset we managed to catch our fair share of barracuda and Dorado to bring back.

Hidden Oasis

Once back to San Pedro, I dropped my catch off to the chefs at Blue Water Grill (Beachfront at the Sunbreeze Hotel on Barrier Reef Dr) where they told me to come back at 6 pm and my dinner would be cooked and waiting for me — how can you beat that?

In the meantime, it was time to explore the southern tip of Ambergris Caye.  Approximately half a mile south of San Pedro is the island’s own Mayan ruin known as the Marco Gonzales archaeological site.  This is no easy to access site, however; surrounded by dense jungle and mangroves, the only way to get there is by a makeshift over-water walkway that winds through the mangrove thickets.  Visitors are rare to the site, especially during the rainy season.

Wanting to get the whole experience of Belize, the epicenter of the ancient Mayan world, I trekked the path until I came to the site littered with piles of conch shells, broken pottery, and even some human bones.  Besides the roaring buzz of millions of mosquitos, I was completely alone — a very eerie experience but one not to miss out on.  One very important tip: bring mosquito spray!

On the dusty road back toward San Pedro to enjoy my fresh caught dinner, knowing that my stay at Caye Casa was coming to an end, I went in search of new accommodations and found a lush beachfront resort that resembled a Tahitian jungle more than a hotel.

I wandered down the tropical garden of Royal Palms and manicured sand pathways of Ramon’s Village and knew this is where I would spend the remainder of my stay in San Pedro.

With Polynesian style cottages, lagoon style pool, thatch covered hammocks on the beach and even their own dive shop you are completely immersed in a true island oasis at Ramon’s.  If you are a scuba enthusiast, you are in luck.

Ramon’s Village has been managed by Ramon Nunez (Belize’s first certified scuba diver) since the 1980s. Swap stories if you spot him at breakfast in the hotel’s restaurant Pineapples on the Beach.

Greeted by the staff more like family than a guest truly makes you feel at home, especially going out of their way to make sure I was comfortable at all times knowing I was traveling solo for the first time.

Un-Belizable Celebrations

September happens to be a special time for Belizeans.  Celebrating their independence from the British in 1964 and then finally attaining full independence on September 21, 1981.

Every day I was delighted with musical performances of barefoot school children practicing down the beachfront streets for the San Pedro independence parade.  Bystanders would join in, too, with songs and dance as the performers paraded down until the music could barely be heard any longer.

There are plenty of celebration events you can catch in San Pedro such as the Miss San Pedro competition where you can find everyone rooting for their favorite girl or the Uniform Parade of school kids, police, town officials and firemen.  On September 20^th (Independence Eve) head over to the Old Football Field for a huge ceremony of music, fireworks, and food. 

The celebrations continue on into the night as locals gather together in the streets under strings of bright blue Belizean flags where they laughed and came together in what is undeniably a favorite time of year.

Split second decision

On my last full day in Belize, over breakfast complete with locally grown pomegranate margaritas, with an expat couple I met during celebrations, they recommended I hop over to Caye Caulker before I left.

Measuring only five miles long and less than 1 mile wide with little to no beaches, Caye Caulker had not even been on my radar during my stay on Ambergris Caye.

But I was curious about this tiny island’s reputation as a laid-back alternative to Ambergris where you can “borrow” a shelter dog to walk around or hang out with backpackers at The Split.

After I finished my second or third margarita with my new expat friends I checked the ferry schedule and realized I had 20 minutes until the next ferry to Caye Caulker departed.  I decided to island hop and jetted off toward the ferry dock. 

There are daily scheduled ferries back and forth between San Pedro and Caye Caulker at a cost of $9.50 USD each way.  After a scenic 11-mile water taxi ride we arrived at the little isle.

The Split

It doesn’t take long to explore the island once you arrive.  The motto there is “Go Slow” and you can’t help but feel the welcoming free spirit vibe. I made my way down to the local and tourist hangout known as The Split.

The Split is a channel that separates the island into the more developed southern portion and the northern swampy mangroves.  One of the most popular gathering spots on the island is here due to crystal clear deep water for swimming and the landmark Lazy Lizard Bar that serves up plenty of libations including the super strong Green Lizard Juice.

There I met other solo travelers from all over, including Oliva from Australia who was also on her first solo adventure.  We decided to swim together to the other side of the split to the hidden rope swings tied into the tall mangroves.  Fighting the current together was not as easy a task as we assumed, but we made it across and it was worth it.

With the setting of the sun, it was time to board my taxi boat back to San Pedro for an early morning flight home.  Thanks to the help of easily made Belizean friends I knew my first impromptu trip would not be my last.

In the words of Madonna “This is where I long to be, La Isla Bonita”.

• Boaz Golf Cart Rental – Coconut Drive San Pedro Belize  Open 8am – 7pm

Telephone: 011-501-226-4466 Email: inquiries@boazgolfcarts.com

Daily rates $120 BZD

• Caye Casa – Oceanfront San Pedro Belize

Telephone: 1-888-480-4535 Email: info@cayecasa.com

Daily rates: Casita $165 USD

• Sandbar Beachfront Hostel & Bar – 7 Boca del Rio Drive, San Pedro Belize Open 11am – 12am  Telephone: 011-501-226-2008 Email: info@sanpedrohostel.com * Bar menu with everything from lobster ceviche to hand tossed pizzas.
• Blue Water Grill – Barrier Reef Drive San Pedro Belize Open 7am – 9:30 pm

Telephone: 501-226-3347  *Diablo Alfredo was to die for

• Ramon’s Village – Coconut Drive San Pedro Belize

Telephone: 501-226-2071 Email: info@ramons.com

Rates: start at $175 USD

Ashton Stockwell is a  freelance writer, outdoor photographer, conservationist and commercial real estate agent from Louisiana and based in Madison, Mississippi.

Written by GoNomad

Coral Bay, St. John USVI – A Snorkeling Paradise

By Terri Clemmons

St. John (not John’s) is “a whole ‘nother world” according to Kenny Chesney, a country singer, as described in one of his ballads. Some locals blame him for giving away the secret of the sublime island in the U.S. Virgin Islands.

With undeveloped beaches with postcard views in every direction, hiking trails for every fitness level, historic ruins, and laid back vibe or party atmosphere; there is something for everyone.

Our top reason to go is for the excellent shore snorkeling. No need to get on a boat, although you can take boozy cruises or guided tours if that is your thing. The pristine beaches offer nature’s best views.

No hotel strips here. But be warned, the trip to “The Rock”, as it is affectionately known, can be addictive. There are many travelers that return year after year, and it is easy to see why this small Caribbean island is a sun-and-sea lover’s favorite.

The Island

The island is mostly undeveloped because 60% of it is a national park, with rich history including sugar plantations, slavery rebellions, the Rockefellers, and the Oppenheimers.

There are two sides to the island, Cruz Bay and Coral Bay. Cruz is the island hub, where Coral is the laidback former fishing village.

There are two main roads on the island and it is easy to get from one bay to the other in 20 minutes. It is left side of the road driving, which you get used to pretty quickly.

The locals drive with more “gusto” than the tourists, so just pull over and let them pass. There are public transport open-air buses and taxis, but they do not go to all the beaches. We chose to rent a jeep to have access to the whole island.

The news of St. John is a blog about, strangely, the news of St. John, and offers an abundance of information including cruise ship days, events, and web-cam views.

A Hop, a Skip, and Ferry

There is no airport on St. John, so you fly into St. Thomas and take a 15-minute ferry ride into Cruz Bay. This extra step of taking a ferry might deter some, but that makes it less crowded for the rest of us.

It also means no cruise ships blocking your view, but ships docking at St. Thomas do take day trips to STJ.

There are no direct flights from Chicago, but there are from the east coast. We had a short layover in Puerto Rico before reaching Cyril E. King Airport. The second time we made sure to book a flight that arrived earlier, so we could avoid driving in the dark on your first day on the island.

The sun sets early because it is close to the equator, so check sunset times for your travel month. Allow time for jeep rental and grocery shopping too.

If you do end up arriving after 6:00 p.m. like we did, Courtesy Car Rental will give you a number to call for late arrival. Most rental companies do not, so check.

There are drivers lined up at the airport and a dispatcher will direct you. We asked for a direct ride to Red Hook to avoid stops at hotels along the way. We waited about five minutes while he got two other couples traveling to RH.

It took about 30 minutes to get to ferry on a Saturday afternoon. The cost was $15 per person and additional $2 per bag.

There are two ferries that run the 20-minute route back and forth from RH to St. John. They depart RH on the top of the hour. The 20-minute ride cost $28 including the cost of two big bags.

There is a newer ferry and an older one, and you can tell the difference. I tend to get motion sickness, but it was not a problem.

The Beaches

The north shore beaches are well known for their easy access to stellar shore snorkeling. Many are easily reached and others require hikes. Parking can be an issue if you arrive in the afternoon.

Honeymoon/Solomon requires a little more effort than walking across the street, but it is worth it. The Lind Point Trail from Cruz Bay leads to these beaches, but we parked at the Caneel Bay Resort. The walk from the parking lot is quite a jaunt, but it is clearly marked with signage.

You are given a parking ticket from the attendant when you enter, and if you spend the equivalent of the $20 fee at any of their facilities, the parking fee is waived

. You need to exchange your ticket for a different color when you make your purchase to show attendant on the way out. It is easy to spend $20 there, as it is the priciest resort on the island.

We chose to eat at the Beach Bar restaurant and the food was really good. We ordered appetizers that were generous enough for a meal. The resort has a reputation for being rather snooty, and we felt that from some of the guests when we were lugging our chairs down to the beach, but the staff was friendly and helpful.

Timing is essential here because of the chartered boats that stop offshore and dump a mass of finned humanity into the water. We got there by 8:30 am and had the beach to ourselves for a while. We snorkeled for two hours. This was one of our favorite reefs with colorful coral and diverse fish.

We saw an eel and turtles on the grassy area to the right of rocky outcrop on the left side of the beach (facing the ocean). The water was very calm and it felt very safe and protected from boaters.

The catamarans arrived about 10:30 a.m., and then again about 2:00 p.m. The second wave had three boats and it was snorkel chaos. It was hard to watch the lack of respect for the reef.

Elkhorn Coral and Glowworms

Hawksnest is known for the elkhorn coral, and it is impressive. Go early to snorkel the reef that is right off the beach without a crowd. When the crowds come, the quality diminishes considerably as the sand kicks up. The beach is narrow so it fills up quickly. Go to the far left to the shady nooks, which are also less populated.

A guidebook mentioned that if you are there three nights after the full moon, go to Hawksnest at dusk to see glowworms. When we went, there was only one other couple there, and it felt a little like a snipe hunt at first. Then the charter boat arrived off shore and you see the flashlights.

The idea is to flash your light into the water to attract the glowworms that come into this bay three nights after a full moon. Official sunset was 7:00, and by 8:00, it was truly dark, and we started to see the glowworms. It looked like fireflies in the ocean. Very cool.

We scooped up a handful and they were translucent worms about 3/4 of an inch…and they were everywhere! A little freaky since I was standing knee deep in worms.

Cinnamon Beach has excellent snorkeling on the far right along the rocks. We saw lots of fish and a nurse shark. Keep inside the buoys! There are shady nooks on the far right and is less populated as it is a little distance down the beach.

The cay is supposed to offer great snorkeling, but not on the day we were there.

Trunk Bay photographs like a dream, but the snorkeling trail is strictly for beginners. This is the only beach with a fee. The far side of the small cay is supposed to have better snorkeling, but we did not have any luck there.

Check the cruise ship schedule and avoid this beach on those days. Excursion groups flood the place.

Maho is like an aquarium on the right side. It was calm and shallow for a long distance, so it would be ideal for children or beginners. The beach is narrow and not much shade in the afternoon. Parking in right across the street, but limited.

Francis a Favorite Beach

Francis is our favorite beach. It is wide, shady beach with unique snorkeling experiences every time. There are always turtles in the grassy area. We saw stingrays, puffer, squid, but the highlight was the tarpon.

These silver giants glide in the water and their fins remind you of Jaws. There was a school of tarpon that were charging into a large ball of baitfish while we snorkeled.

They circled in and out of it for 20-30 minutes as we hovered above and to the side. As they swam in front of us, they would tilt to the side, causing the sun to reflect off their silver sides and flash us. Look for those bait balls and there will be big fish.

Waterlemon (not a typo) is the reason I will return someday. I never got to snorkel it. It is one of the best places to snorkel according to…everybody. I got sick, and could not do the one-mile hike that it requires.

I could barely drag my chair onto the beach at Hawksnest. I ended up having to go to the Myrah Keating Smith Community Health Center to get medicine.

It was island slow, but the doctor was kind and rather entertaining. I hope no one else has a coughing-up-a-lung woman sitting behind them on the flight to St. Thomas, but if you do, it is nice to know health care is available when you start coughing nonstop.

They accepted my BCBS insurance. The pharmacy at the market was pricey, even by island standards, for generic antibiotics, but it is the only game in town.

There are so many more beaches that it would take a book to detail them all. Coincidently, there are two books that are helpful for planning and navigating the island: St. John Feet, Fins and Four Wheel Drive by Pam Gaffin and St. John Off The Beaten Track by Gerald Singer.

Landlubbers

Hiking is a big attraction on the island with its dozens of trails. The Trail Bandit spent years mapping out known and unknown trails. A free map is available on his site trailbandit.org. The National Park Rangers give guided tours of Reef Bay Trail. This 4½ -mile round trip hike through the tropical forest includes a ruin site and petroglyphs from the Arawak Indians.

The trail is rocky with many roots. You need good shoes, not flips. The tour is very detailed, perhaps too detailed. However, the guided tour offers the perk of a boat ride back to Cruz Bay instead of hiking back out.

The Annenberg Sugar Plantation ruin is a popular site, and a self-guided tour offers a sobering look at the plantation system that once existed. Go early to get great pictures without someone else’s kids in the background. There are great views and interesting information along the trail.

The Moravian Church, constructed in 1750, sits on a hill in Coral Bay and is on the National Registry of Historic Places. They do not offer tours as this is an active church, but they do welcome visitors.

We attended and were welcomed with open arms, literally. The people on the island are generally very friendly, but there is a cultural expectation of a friendly greeting before conducting any business.

A simple “good day” is all it takes.

Coral Bay Eats

Caribbean Oasis is the best value on the island and the food is good to great! Each night is a different menu consisting of at least four entrees, prices ranging from $9-12. Check their Facebook page or website for daily menus. Carryouts are popular here.

The Triple B food truck parks in the Oasis parking lot in the morning. It has great coffee and outstanding baked good and breakfast sandwiches.

Aqua Bistro has a great view of the bay and always a nice breeze. The bar serves good frozen cocktails like the refreshing “Lime in De Coconut”. Sit at the bar to get the half price drinks from 4-6 pm.

Concordia Café has open mic night on Mondays. It was an enjoyable night of music at a beautiful location. Overpriced food, but the entertainment made it worth it. Go early. It is from 4:30-6:30. Ask about the half-priced drink specials.

Shipwreck Landing is a great spot with a view of the bay and nice breezes. Fish taco and conch fritters for lunch were very good. The only good dessert I had on the island was here. It was the caramel coconut cheesecake with chocolate ganache. Stellar! One caveat for the place: the seats are not comfortable.

Pickles in Paradise is open early. We discovered the “Trainwreck” sandwich late in the trip, but we got it several times to take to the beach anyway because it is so good. It is big enough to share and comes cut in half.

Four-Wheel Drive

If you plan to explore the island, and of course you are, then you must rent a Jeep. We’ve rented from Courtesy Car Rentals on both trips and had a good experience.

It’s not cheap, about $75 per day, but it’s a cheaper rate to rent by the week rather than the day.

If you are staying in Cruz Bay, you could rent a jeep for a few days to explore the more remote parts of the island, and take the buses the other days.

The four-wheel drive allows you to access some of the rougher roads, or even the “used to be a road” roads.   Talk to a local bartender to get the story on the lack of road maintenance, local politics, and all the latest in the resident intrigues.

There are plenty, from activist battles with big developers to beach access wars.

The two main roads are maintained, but there are many roads that have been left to crumble. Since it is left-side of the road driving, the worst part is when you get into your rental jeep for the first time, and try to navigate Cruz Bay side streets and turnarounds. Have a map and a plan before you put it into drive. The co-pilot position is no joke. But once you get the feel of the island, it is not difficult to get around at all. There are not enough roads to get lost.

Sleep

Coral Bay is the laid back side of the island where your sleep options are house rentals or “villas”. The housing is built into the sides of the rocky cliffs, which often afford wonderful views, but it also requires navigating tricky driveways. Always ask about the drive to the house. Some are truly villas, but you can rent anything from mansions to studio cottages.

Many have pools and other amenities. Look on vrbo.com where we booked to see the options. Both places we rented were accurately represented, but I did my due diligence to be sure. Most rentals provide beach chairs, beach towels, and coolers. Look at the list of provisions and pack lightly. Both sides of the island are casual, with the exception of a couple of upscale restaurants.

Coral Bay has plenty of shops and restaurants, some with live entertainment. There is no walking back to your villa, though. There might be some that say you could, but the roads are narrow and winding, and there are no designated sidewalks. I wouldn’t do it.

Cruz Bay is the main hub where the ferry docks, with shops and restaurants and nearby boutique hotels, condos, and inns. There are only a couple of big resorts on the island, the Westin and Caneel. There is also a campground at Cinnamon Bay and Concordia Eco-resort on the more remote east end.

Take

Pack lightly. Truly. The dress is casual. Shorts are fine. Flipflops are fine. You are in your swimsuit most of the day, so bring at least two. Water shoes are advisable for trail trekking. Leave room in your bag for more important things like reef-friendly sunscreen. Don’t be that red guy.

We back our own snorkel gear, but rentals are widely available. If you think you will snorkel every day, it would be worth buying your own. A gear backpack for snorkel equipment and a cooler backpack are beach essentials. The straps make it easy to lug the gear.

Food is expensive on the island. Everything is shipped in, thus the high price tag. We bring some things with us like peanut butter, protein and granola bars that don’t melt for the beach, tea bags, coffee, and a box of cereal. When we get our rental jeep, our first stop is the Starfish Market grocery store. Water is not usually potable, so buy plenty of water.

For two weeks, we bought two cases water and two gallons of water for making iced tea.

There is a spirits store next to the market, and Sam and Jack’s deli is on the level above the grocery where we pick up a sandwich to take for dinner on the first night. Once you load the groceries, call your property manager, and arrange the meeting place to go to your rental house.

Unpack the essentials, head to your balcony with the fabulous view, pop a top, and start your dream vacation.

Terri Clemmons, right, is an elementary teacher of gifted students in Illinois who uses her summers wisely for travel experiences.

Written by Mary Govoni

By Mary Govoni

There’s been a lot of environmental coverage in recent years about the frightening status of Australia’s Great Barrier Reef.

Scientists and journalists alike are determined to spread the word that climate change is having devastating effects on the coral and the ecosystem as a whole.

I’ve read headlines as drastic as: “Large Sections of Great Barrier Reef Now Dead” and “GBR is Literally in Hot Water”.

And because visiting the Great Barrier Reef and experiencing this underwater world has been on my bucket list since pre-Finding Nemo days, I knew it’s something I needed to see before it was too late.

I recently visited Cape Tribulation to experience Australian wildlife in its truest and most genuine form.

Not only was I incredibly awestruck by the Great Barrier Reef, but I fell in love with the freshwater pools, the strange and dangerous birds, and the second largest rainforest in the world.

A Quick Australian Geography Lesson

Cape Tribulation is a remote headland located in Queensland, Australia about a two hour drive north from Cairns and an hour north of Port Douglas. It’s an up-and-coming ecotourism destination for both Australian and international travelers, advertised as the place, “where the rainforest meets the sea”.

It currently boasts an unmatched lush and beachy authenticity, and isn’t overcrowded by the masses. In order to get to Cape Tribulation, you and your vehicle must cross the river via ferry.

Wi-Fi is nearly nonexistent and dining options are quite limited. However, accommodation is not. Most places offer cottages or huts, tucked into the rainforest or alongside the shores of the beaches.

I stayed at the Daintree Crocodylus, an environmentally-friendly ecoresort, in a cabin with nothing but a bed and a mosquito net to cover it.

You’re almost guaranteed to see tiny frogs or spiders the size of a baseball as you walk between cabins to the bathroom, the pool area, or the reception. You truly get to know the Daintree Rainforest as you fall asleep amidst the rain, the bugs, and the hot, humid air.

Snorkeling on the Great Barrier Reef

Ocean Safari is Cape Tribulation’s leading Great Barrier Reef tour group offering two-hour excursions twice daily at a very reasonable price.

I had an 8:00 am departure time on what turned out to be the perfect day to see the reef.

After shimmying my way into my wetsuit (which you’re only required to wear during “stinger season”), we met the boat on the shore and headed out towards the reef.

Our trip out to the reef was minorly delayed when we saw a pod of bottlenose dolphins and stopped to watch them.

But as we carried on, we got about 20 kilometers off shore and pulled up to our first snorkeling spot. The visibility in the water was like glass — as soon as the boat stopped you could look over the edge and see an array of different coral clusters as well as the stingrays and schools of fish that inhabit them.

After a brief snorkeling instruction session, you’re handed your snorkels and told to get out there. I’ve seen plenty of coral reef photos and I’ve been to a number of aquariums, but experiencing the sight of a coral reef for the first time is unlike anything else.

It truly is an insurmountable beauty. At both reef sites, Mackay and Undine, you can explore the waters freely, get up close and personal with sea turtles, and spot more species of fish than you can count.

Because Cape Tribulation is in the Northern reef, and much more secluded than other parts, evidence of coral bleaching is far less noticeable.

The colors remain vibrant and the reefs are full of life. But to see the beauty of these reefs and to know that they are a dying ecosystem is a reality that is devastating.

It is a sight that I think everyone should experience at least once in their lives, and I hope that it’s possible for generations to come.

I left with a newfound urge to make environmentally-conscious decisions, regardless of how small they are or how far away the reef might seem.

On the ride back towards the shore, I spoke with one of the guides, a young Australian man, native to Melbourne.

He had moved up to Cape Tribulation to work in the growing ecotourism industry and couldn’t believe how perfect the weather we had that morning was for snorkeling on the reefs.

As he joked about working an office job in Melbourne, he said: “I find myself complaining after a long day at work sometimes, and then have to remind myself ‘I go to work everyday on the Great Barrier Reef, a place on a lot of people’s’ bucket lists’, I don’t exactly have the right to complain about my office.”

And I couldn’t have agreed with him more.

Cassowary Crossing & Crocodile Warnings

Aside from the breathtaking views of the Great Barrier Reef, there are things that you can experience only in the Daintree. I had never heard of a cassowary before, and until I saw countless “Cassowary Crossing” signs on the roads, I never would have known to be on the lookout for them.

A cassowary is best described as a mix between an ostrich and a turkey. It’s large and it’s beautiful but also very dangerous. I left Cape Tribulation having seen four of these strange looking birds while driving down dirt roads and wondering if I’d ever see one anywhere else in the world.

And the birds aren’t the only thing that can kill you out there — the beaches are home to saltwater crocodiles and deadly stingers so swimming in the saltwater is nearly impossible.

But with the amount of freshwater swimming pools available, I wasn’t worried about finding a place to escape the heat.

Emmagen Creek and Mason Creek are stops you cannot miss. But make sure you hold onto a paper map, because it’s easy to accidentally make your way off the path and end up somewhere in the rainforest.

Before I went to Cape Tribulation I had no idea what to expect and it was certainly an experience unlike any other.

If Australia is on your bucket list, I urge you to include Cape Trib on your itinerary. Spend a few days up here to truly experience what life is like in a place where the rainforest meets the sea.

Written by Christopher Ludgate

Grand Bahama Island’s Extreme Kayaking Tournament

By Christopher Ludgate

Daring to go Deep

The sun was just starting to rise, revealing the threat of distant storm clouds glowing with pinks, yellows, and blues above the turquoise horizon.

Along the warm, white, sandy coast of Taino Beach on Grand Bahama Island, I stood in a grass hut watching the silhouettes of the competitors of the three-day-long Extreme Kayak Tournament who were prepping their vessels unperturbed by the increasing swells of the water before them.

These daring anglers who descended on the island hell-bent on embarking on the annual challenge to kayak miles out into the Atlantic were on a mission in search of claiming the biggest catch – and a big check.

Miss World

My guide, Chivvaun Smith, soon met up with me on the shore. Native to the Bahamas and not least of all Runner-up to Miss World Bahamas 2016, Chivvaun informed me that “The tournament attracts a lot of people from Florida, but there are fishers who come for the event from all over the world. It winds up being a good opportunity for local business with sponsorship and also tourism.”

While the event feeds the competitive appetite of the anglers, EKFT winds up also “benefiting Bahamas Children’s Home,” Joe Hector, the international event director, told me. The home provides quality care to children with special healthcare needs. Some of the fish is donated to kitchens as well another local informed me.

The sun shone through, and the storm threat passed, leaving swells as high as eight feet rolling in the distance while Joe paced the beach, pumping up the spirit of the sportsmen and women with his bullhorn.

Following the Anglers

Chivvaun arranged for us to hop on a motor boat to follow the anglers out a bit and get a unique view. We approached the canal docks, and at the end, dwarfed by the neighboring titanic yachts, was this tiny four passenger boat. I thought – Geez, we couldn’t possibly go out there in THAT. I mean no life-preserver… Um…

Full speed ahead, our captain pulled through the mouth of the canal into the Atlantic Ocean’s tides in our little engine that could, as we cheered on the pack of about 40 kayakers furthering on into the thick of it, tackling those big swells with surprising ease. The bow of our boat rocked and hoisted, crashing, again and again, face forward and then sharp down at the stern. Soaked and wind-blown, vest-less, and holding on to our seats tight we watched as the kayakers braved on.

And in the midst of the intense ride, what dawned on me was the evident allure and attraction for these anglers as they navigated the rough coast, entering into the calm – into the beauty, peace, and the solitude of their experience. It was then I felt awe-inspired to be part of it.

Pure Adrenaline, Hold on Tight!

Piggy-backing on the adrenaline filled experience, I headed for more thrills at water-sport experts, Ocean Motion, where I booked some time on a Waverunner. As part of the greater Bahamian archipelago of 800+ islands, Grand Bahama Island – so named by the Spanish for its “great low-tides” – also has many canals running throughout which make for some great adventure via sight-seeing on a Waverunner.

Friendly native to the area and Ocean Motion Waverunner pro, Mika, and I tightly strapped on our vests, while I silently questioned entering the still very jerky tide of the ocean.   He read my mind and agreed that it was a bit of a rough sea for most people. But I was game and signed my release.

With kill switch set and fearless determination to dominate the waves and make it to the serene canals, we aimed directly toward the moody horizon jumping the thrusting, rigid aqua colored ebb, minding the shallow reefs, and slamming into the swells, shouting with delight as Mika shouted, “Full throttle …Full throttle!”

With little anxiety over whether that was a question or a command, I harnessed that beast and pressed the accelerator switch until a heady climax, leaning into it feeling wildly free and bursting gleefully before gearing left into the gentle wake of the canals where we saw a whole new side of the hidden scenic marinas, eatery exteriors, and manicured resorts through the Bell Channel.

It’s an exhilarating highlight for any Caribbean travel-therapy getaway.

Be Lazy, Enjoy the Bahamian Hospitality

It’s important to remember to be lazy to truly decompress in the Bahamas, especially here at Port Lucaya. It’s welcomed. My stay at The Pelican Bay Resort

Hotel on the Grand Lucyan Waterway boasts colorful and unique Scandinavian-esque architecture and interiors with private terraces looming above its glorious bay and three pools to chill out by, bars to chill out by, an eclectic and savory four-star restaurant, Sabor, whose chefs cater to every diet and whim. Discreet paths are very closely accessible to a plaza of local touristy knick-knack shops.

Some above-the-grade restaurants like The Grill –   a rustic fusion Euro-esque seafood place with an unpretentious, friendly, yet high-end flair with similar ambiance stands out from the usual local places in the area. It is a comfortable stroll from the hotel overlooking the marina.

Along an open-air market,  is Bojangles, which is impressively manned by co-owner Kephee Bain, who juggles huge and diverse crowds come midday. It may not look like much, but it’s definitively local fare and friendly service is very good by measure of patrons. Bain will even take a coconut to the chopping block for you to serve up some fresh hydrating coconut water while waiting on your fresh well-portioned meal.

Also notable and on the other side of the bay is Bell Channel Inn which focuses on traditional and modern cuisine, as well as twisting those ideas into accommodating diverse diets with outstanding service by a Bahamian/Dutch family owned business.

Bell Channel overlooks Upstairs, a thriving nightclub with live music and a bar that caters from the simple to the traditional local cocktail culture like Sky Juice or a shot of Nassau Royale, like my sweet friend Brook and I sipped on as the band warmed up.

Biodiversity of the ‘Great Shallows’

Shamie and Va’Doyle from Calabash Eco Adventures picked me and my friend Brook up from the hotel early one morning in their Scooby-Doo-esque tour van. Passing the dirt roads that our guide informed were prepped for city planning in the somewhat barren industrial port, we headed for our kayak Eco-tour as Shamie narrated an off-the-cuff primer to the area’s salient ecosystem.

Exploring the skirts of the Pine Forest that Shamie explained, “naturally smolders, but adapted to also extinguish its fire with its own yellow resins, delivering nutrients to the soil” and on to the Blackland and Whiteland coppices   – to the Sand Strand of the famous Beaches with their purple spider-lilies, then over to the Dover Sound Mangrove Swashland where the songbirds nest, it proved a more personal hands-on way to experience the Bahamas than rum cocktails, tanning, and Atlantis.

Fun as they may be, taking in the natural environment of the young 10,000-year-old islands lends a certain appreciation. And it’s beautiful.

After applying a good coat of bug spray just in case, we hopped in our double Kayaks with a small group who joined in on the eco-tour of the Mangrove. Shamie lead the way into the graceful remote waterway. The soothing effect of rhythmic gliding along the surface of the placid water relaxed my mind.

We respectfully scoped out indigenous birds and baby Heron’s and Egret’s in their nests, exploring a balanced and stunning nature, allowing a spiritual rejuvenation from the tedious clutter that sometimes distracts my own inner peace. It was majestic and delightful.

Shamie later introduced us to “Da Boiling Hole” for an intimate and eye-catching snorkeling experience; another of the many visual hands-on informative and personal chauffeured aquatic tours he offers that get you up close and personal with one of the world’s fascinating ecosystems.

Bush Crack Brew

In the afternoon, Brook and I took a detour to The Bahamian Brewery for some more intrigue after learning that it existed as a sponsor of the Extreme Kayaking event. We earned a brew after the paddling.

“We opened in 2007 and expanded now four times since. The brewery does not yet export out of the country, but there are some discussions happening – unofficially,” Chrissy Hanna teased while at the tasting bar. “Maybe that’s part of the new expansion,” Hanna elaborated.

We sampled some of the brews whose main ingredients are imported from Germany. Highlights were High Rock with its golden creaminess, Virgil’s 6% alc Amber Ale, which is exclusively made for Nassau’s Atlantis Resort, and the popular Bush Crack which has a hilarious back story that Hanna illustrated for us adding some unabashed humor to some unexpected levity on the journey. And it’s worth a taste, too!

Written by GoNomad

Lesser-Known Ruins on the Riviera Maya – Xel-Ha

By Emese Fromm

Leaving the Cancun airport in our rented car, I marvel of the changes I see.

I have been visiting the peninsula for over two decades, and I see changes every time I come. The old road, once surrounded by jungle, is a highway now. As much as I miss it being so narrow that two cars would barely fit through it, the ease of travel is a benefit I enjoy.

What’s in A Name?

Soon after my husband starts driving, I notice signs for Xel-Ha, the water park.  Though we are not heading for it, I think about the name.  It derives from the Yukatek Maya, combining the words Xel – spring, and Ha – water. The ancient Maya used the location to build a port-city across from the lagoon, structures of which still stand centuries later.

The lagoon and inlet that gave the place its name is now a water park, by the name of Xel-Ha Park.

A Tourist Trap on the Water

Opened in the past ten years, the park on the water is teeming with tourists. Although we have visited the peninsula many times, we still haven’t been there.  That is not to say that we have not visited Xel-Ha lagoon.

Before it became a huge tourist trap, the lagoon was a local water park, open for snorkeling. The entrance was a small palapa hut, where we paid an entrance fee of a few pesos and promised not to use sunscreen since it hurts the ecosystem in the lagoon.

Before entering the actual park-lagoon, we showered, to remove any trace of sunscreen. The beach was small, the water cold and crystal-clear. We snorkeled for a while, enjoying the colorful fish and sea creatures. Of course, we got burned but considered it a small price to pay for keeping the lagoon clear.  I remember sharing the place with very few local families and visitors.

Since the place is a world-class resort and park, we try to avoid it. We prefer to keep the old image of it in our memory.

The Ruins Are Easy to Miss

Rushing towards it, cars and buses drive by the small sign for Xel-Ha Ruins without a second glance. Trying to deal with traffic, we almost miss it, as well.  Only the fact that we know where it is makes us look for it. The old, dirt parking lot is empty, we are the only visitors here. It is so pleasant to feel the breeze, listen to the birds, and even take the time to chat with the caretakers.

Our old friend is not there any longer.  He used to offer to take us to the water park through a trail from the ruins, only known to locals.  We never took him up on the offer, since in those days the entrance fee was low enough not to matter. We would go now, but no one offers to guide us.

We pay the modest fee for the ruins, then take off on the path. Being here brings back memories of my very first time in Yucatan, over twenty years ago. The ruins are still standing as they did since they were abandoned a few thousand years ago.  However, more of them are cleared off, and entrances into the old structures are off-limit now.

Once Again, We Are Exploring the Site

The main trail forks as soon as we enter.  This time we take the one to the left, leading to the Palace Group.  Shaded by trees, the group consists of two major structures, the Market, and the Palace. Both date from the Late Post-Classic Era of the Mayan civilization, about 1200-1550 AD. We enjoy exploring them, especially since it is so quiet, so peaceful in there. Our only companions are the birds and an iguana laying on the rocks of the ruined structure.

As we leave these structures and follow the path, we come to the more impressive Pyramid of the Birds. As pyramids go on the peninsula, it is a small one. What it lacks in size it makes up in the beauty of its well-preserved murals. Now under a cover to preserve it, this mural of birds gave the pyramid its name.

The composition is still striking after all this time, as it depicts two different kinds of birds.  Two red frames enclose the pictures of red birds, with long tails, and some that seem to be yellow parrots with shorter tails. They look like they are flying everywhere.

The frames are separated by a column with a glyph on it. I know from my readings that the glyph stands for the Mayan word, “Ahau”. It means Lord or ruler. It is also the name of one of the days in the Mayan calendar.

Much of the mural is ruined, but thanks to the palapa cover, most of it is still clearly discernible. I am in awe thinking of the age of this paint, still beautiful if faded.

Painted in 600 AD

Ancient Mayan artists have painted it sometime between 300 and 600 AD., a date that corresponds to the Early Classic period of the Mayan Civilization.  The pyramid of the birds is the only structure this old. The rest of the preserved site is newer.

The reason this particular structure it is so well preserved is that it had been encased in a newer building for centuries. This was a common practice among the Ancient Maya in a land where building material was scarce. As the newer structure started to fall apart, this much older one was revealed.

I stand on the pyramid, in front of the mural of the birds. I am just about on the busy highway, with cars and tour buses zooming a few feet from me.  We are only separated from it by a wire fence and some trees.  Yet no one looks up, they are all in a rush to get to the next big destination, the busy park, the huge resort. “Slow down, come take a look at this!” I want to yell.  In the same time, I am glad no one stops.  It keeps the place serene, quiet, pleasant, a good place for birds and wildlife.

After spending enough time at the small pyramid, we turn around and walk back towards the Mercado. From there, we choose to follow the old Mayan road, called sacbe, to the next structures. A sacbe is an ancient Mayan road, it roughly translates into “white road”. The ancient Maya made these roads from limestone, which gave them the distinctive white color. This particular sacbe continues to the much bigger site of Coba, inland. On the other side, it also connects the site with the coast.

Following my family, I continue to walk towards the group of the House of the Jaguar. This is the very first Mayan structure that I have ever seen twenty years ago. I still remember my original excitement and awe, standing in front of the murals inside.  At the time, I was able to enter the structure and walk through it. Now it is closed to the public, but most of the images are still visible from the outside.

The picture of the jaguar still stands on the outer wall of the building. It shows off the very distinctive Mayan blue, the dominant color of the building believed to be a temple.  The red handprints on the panels of the doorway are still clearly visible as well.

As I walk through the ruins, I stop at the cenote. Surrounded by tall trees, with crystal clear, deep blue water, it’s one of my favorite spots.  I walk to the edge of the water and join my daughter, who is sitting there, watching the fish in the water and a dragonfly fluttering above it.

We spend a long time at these ruins, enjoying the serenity of the place. By the time we are ready to leave, we still have not encountered another visitor. The whole time we had the place to ourselves. As usual, it was a pleasant s

top during our adventures through the peninsula.

If You Go:

Xel-Ha Ruins are right on Highway 307 between Cancun and Tulum. Since the place is not advertised, it is easy to miss. Driving from Cancun, start looking for it as soon as you see the big signs for Xel-Ha Park. The dirt parking lot with a small sign for “Zona Arqueologica Xelha” is on the right. The entrance fee is 70 pesos for adults, children under 10 are free.

The only amenities are the restrooms in the building where the ticket counter is. Make sure you have good walking/hiking shoes, and water. Wear a hat and sunscreen since the sun is very intense. Don’t forget your water. Enjoy your visit.

Emese Fromm is a writer/translator living in Phoenix, Arizona, who loves to travel and explore new places with her family. 

Written by GoNomad

Dominica: A Private Paradise

By Caroline Sumners

The first question people will ask you when you tell them you are going to Dominica: “Do you mean the Dominican Republic?”

No, this is Do-mi-NEE-ca, a Caribbean island where the beaches are still empty and the rainforests still secluded. No huge, sprawling resorts here; instead, you’ll find a slower pace, friendly locals, dirt roads, and tropical gardens. This island–affectionately called “The Nature Island”–is truly a treasure.

Measuring in at less than 300 square miles, it’s also totally feasible to drive the perimeter of the island, soaking up its main cities and its off-highway gems in a few short days–which is what we, two female travelers in search of adventure, decided to do.

The Nature Island’s Natural Pools

We stayed at a no-frills Airbnb in Trafalgar to serve as our base for exploring the sights surrounding the colorful capital of Roseau. We hiked to Trafalgar Falls from the house in the middle of town.

The twin waterfalls will cost you $5 USD, or you can purchase a weeklong pass to Dominica’s most popular treasures for $12 USD. Navigating the rocky terrain to get to the luscious swimming hole is tricky, so we got help from a guide (around $5 USD).

Titou Gorge

From there, it’s a short (though harrowing) drive to mesmerizing Titou Gorge, which moviegoers may recognize from Pirates of the Caribbean: Dead Man’s Chest.

We rented a life jacket for a few dollars at the tables out front. A chilly, cavernous swim took us to the waterfall. On the way back, we bought a fresh passionfruit juice from the same woman renting out the life jackets.

Dominica is smothered in tropical fruits, the gardens bursting with starfruit and mango, and we ate as much fruit as we could–often from right outside the window of our Airbnb.

This volcanically-crafted island is also full of geothermal delights. The famous Champagne Reef was too cloudy for snorkeling, so we opted for the lesser known Bubble Beach Spa instead.

It’s a charming, shallow, warm pool of bubbles found in Soufriere on the road between Roseau and Scott’s Head–the kind of place where you will find locals lounging and enjoying a natural hot tub of their island. Small restaurants cluster along the road cooking up fresh fish to enjoy after a dip here.

Pair it with the island’s famous rum punch–as long as someone else is driving, because you won’t be able to after one of these!

Dominica has plenty of classic white sand beaches as well, but you won’t be sharing them! We stayed at Calibishie on a cliff overlooking the ocean and didn’t see another soul on the beach the entire time. After a swim, we headed into town to the oceanside Coral Reef Bar & Restaurant for some fried lionfish.

“Where’s Jimmy Charles?”: Help from the Neighbors

When we first arrived in Trafalgar, we struggled to find our Airbnb host. It was completely dark, and we were arriving several hours later than we had told our host thanks to the delayed flight and an impassable highway that required significant re-routing of our trip.

We stopped at the local watering hole to ask for help–seriously, it was called “Water Bar.” The whole place knew who he was, and one of the patrons even hopped in our car to help us look for him.

We drove all over the winding roads of that town, stopping at Jimmy’s father-in-law’s house and the one house party happening that night, while our new friend asked everyone about Jimmy’s whereabouts.

With each and every dead end, he said, “Don’t worry, we will find him. Trust me.” That level of relaxation is what Dominicans are all about. Don’t stress while you’re here; you are surrounded by new friends who want to share the wonders of their island with you.

And he was right; we eventually found Jimmy, sound asleep but easily roused to let us into our house for the night.

Flying In & Driving Around

We took a flight from San Juan, Puerto Rico to Marigot, a city in the northeast of Dominica. We arranged a rental SUV online through Expedia before landing, which I recommend; the airport is small and you can’t count on the rental desk being open when you arrive.

Our flight was super delayed after being re-routed through Antigua, so we were glad we had someone expecting us–and someone to give us a few pointers on Dominican driving!  You will drive on the left-hand side and need a good dose of patience; you may be navigating some rough terrain.

Driving here is worth it for the opportunity to stop at roadside waterfalls, like Sisserou. Colorful hand-painted signs welcome you to a short hike down to the falls. We had the whole place to ourselves. On this trip, we quite often had the place to ourselves.

We rarely met other tourists, so we got to soak in all of this rain-drenched beauty by ourselves. If you’re looking for an authentic, charming Caribbean experience, the people of Dominica will welcome you with open arms, a fresh passionfruit from the garden, and a sweet, strong rum punch.

Caroline Sumners is a middle school biology teacher in Atlanta, GA. She uses her school breaks to explore the world, especially places with interesting wildlife so she can share what she learns with her students. When at home, she reads voraciously, practices yoga, and spends time outdoors with her two dogs.

Written by Max Hartshorne

Why don’t more Americans take Vacations?  One Cruise line is trying to change that, one family at a time

By Max Hartshorne

When was the last time you took a vacation? If you pose this question to a large percentage of Americans, they would have to shrug and say, ‘well, not this year.’  Some would have a hard time recalling just when they took their last family holiday.

It’s a sad reality and it’s different than in most other parts of the developed world, where mandated three, four and even five paid weeks of vacation is standard.  Not in the US.

The facts revealed in recent surveys point to how badly we all need time off.

Paid Time off on the Table 

In 2015, Americans left 658 million days of vacation time unused. A staggering two-hundred-twenty-two million of those days were paid time off that could not be used in any way once surrendered, including being paid out or rolled over!  That means Americans simply gave over $61 billion dollars in paid time off back to their employers.

Unfortunately, the trend is only projected to grow more in the coming years. There are many theories on why US Citizens are reluctant to take time off, and one indicates that it may be partly due to the rising costs of vacations.

Are vacations so costly that people would rather give away paid vacation days than use them? Consider the fact that Disney vacations now cost a thousand to two thousand dollars a day. That’s well over the weekly salary of middle-class Americans. A weeklong vacation at Disney theme parks costs almost two months’ worth of wages. No wonder then that families can’t afford to travel and take time off! The big question we should be asking is why vacation prices are soaring.

Could it be the Chinese?

Many attribute the rising cost of holidays to the influx of Chinese tourists to the US. In 2015, tourism from China was up by 18%, and Chinese tourists accounted for $30.1 billion in tourism revenue in America.

China is well established as this country’s largest market for tourism and travel exports. In most heavily-traveled countries, there is no group that is increasing their yearly spending more than those from China.

As a result, theme parks, hotels, and cruise lines in the US are hiking prices to cash in on the boom from overseas. From 2015 to 2021, visitors from China to the United States are expected to double from 2.6 million to almost 6 million.

With tourism increasing rapidly, and Chinese tourists willing to spend over $30 billion a year visiting the U.S., there’s a big push to cater to Chinese tourists and show them America wants them here.

Only the Best 

Chinese visitors are different from the typical American traveler, according to many in the tourism business. For example, a VP at Enterprise Rent-a-car said that when the Chinese rent cars, they want only the top of the line, and usually go for every possible add-on, from the extra insurance to the GPS, to the vehicle upgrades.  Who wouldn’t want more customers like that?

The cost of Chinese translators, amenities like teapots in hotel rooms and modified restaurant menus aimed at the Chinese market, and a general awareness that this is where the money is, has resulted in increased costs for many tourist destinations.

These additions mean hotels and attractions are putting out more dollars, and that translates into a need for more revenue. Chinese tourism gives many stateside venues the ability to raise rates, even if they aren’t catering to the Chinese. The hike in prices is justified because they’re keeping up with industry standards.

With costs to popular places like Disney World on the rise, cruises have become an oasis for families who just want something they can afford.

One cruise line that’s made a big splash for their affordable, shorter cruises is Royal Seas Cruises, which caters to less affluent, but still, provides the amenities and fun that vacationers expect on a cruise ship.

What Customers Have Said

One mother of two from New Jersey said, “the staff, the rooms, the accommodations, the food, the spectacular scenery, the excursions… you can’t say enough about it and it’s so reasonably priced that just about anybody could really afford it.”

A senior couple also had good things to say about Royal Sea’s Bahama island cruises: “We’re New Yorkers. We’re hard to please, but this is our second evening on the Grand Celebration, and so far it’s very, very nice. We’re pleasantly surprised. It’s been great, absolutely great! Whatever you want, whatever you need, they’re here all the time.”

“For me, the Bahamian people have something special about them. My big surprise is that there are activities for everybody, it’s kind of amazing. We did a little snorkeling, saw some big turtles. We like to gamble so the casinos have been very good too.”

Smooth Sailing on the Grand Celebration

“We went to the Bahamas and stayed there for a week, and now we’re back on the ship going home and it’s just been smooth sailing.  It’s been fun. Karen at the grocery store was pretty nice. Went to the bonfire which was fun and there was really good food.”

“We’ve had excellent service since we’ve been here. There are lots of things to do on this ship; if you’re into gambling, you can gamble, the food is excellent, the pool has all kinds of activities for adults and for children. This is the best bang for our buck for vacation.”

“I would definitely recommend Grand Celebration to anybody else who’s thinking about of going on a cruise. Grand Celebration is the one to do. If you want to go on a cruise, this is the place to be.. this is the best place to be.”

This story was sponsored by Royal Sea Cruises but the opinions are the author’s own.

Written by Shelley Seale

By Shelley Seale

On the popular island of Maui, this classic (yet distinctly Hawaiian) road trip is one of a kind.

The Road to Hana takes visitors down 50 winding miles of highway along Maui’s north shore, connecting Kahului with the town of Hāna in east Maui. Making this trek across the stunning landscape of the island offers unique cultural activities along with gorgeous natural scenery and exciting outdoor adventures.

Our mini-guide highlights some of the best things to be seen and experienced along the Road to Hana, and in the surrounding areas of Maui.

Snorkeling and Diving

Anywhere there’s an ocean, particularly with a rich and diverse sea life, people who love the water’s depths will be found snorkeling or scuba diving. Maui offers a lot of excellent spots for both.

The volcanic Kanaio Coast is the place to explore a rarely seen part of Maui, with its variety of remote, exotic snorkel/dive sites accessible only by boat.

Volcanic formations, caves, and blowholes provide excitement, along with the stunning variety of tropical fish found in the pristine coral reefs; as well as spinner dolphins and green sea turtles (which we saw!).

This area of South Maui is where the last volcanic eruption flowed a little over 220 years ago. It is a rugged area full of lava arches and sea caves; this part of the coastline is not accessible by car and only a few hike the lava rocks.

Blue Water Rafting takes people out there the fun way — on a Zodiac-style raft that speeds along the waves for an aquatic roller-coaster ride.

After checking out the crashing of the sea against the lava formations (and a few celebrity homes in this out-of-reach spot), the Blue Water Kanaio adventure makes two snorkeling stops at exquisite reefs, known for the abundance of fish, eels, and green turtles.
Upcountry Farm Tour

Located on the high elevations around Haleakala, the fertile slopes of Upcountry Maui are home to ranches, botanical gardens, and farms with soaring views over the misty mountains.

Cool breezes are a refreshing change from sea level, and there are a variety of makers that have farms or property that is open to the public, often for tours and tastings.

Maui Country Farm Tours is a great way to see a variety of these places on one easy itinerary, guided by Marilyn Jansen Lopes, who owns the business with her husband. Marilyn is a knowledgeable and extremely personable guide — a little wacky, but in a fun way.

Some of the spots on the tour include:

Ocean Vodka Organic Farm & Distillery: Using sugar cane that is organically farmed on the rich, volcanic soils without the use of synthetic pesticides or herbicides, this state-of-the-art vodka distillery offers a tour and tasting, where you can also sample some of their popular (and unique) vodka goat cheese truffles. The views out across the valley are stunning.

Aliʻi Kula Lavender Farm: This was my favorite stop on the itinerary. The lush, tropical gardens are so gorgeous and peaceful that it’s hard to do them justice with mere words; I could have stayed here all day.

The 13.5-acre farm resides at an elevation of roughly 4000 feet and is home to approximately 55,000 lavender plants within 45 different varieties.

But it’s not just lavender; the garden is overflowing with olive trees, hydrangea, Protea, succulents and an exceptional variety of other plants. We were served lavender tea and the most delicious scones I’ve ever tasted; the gift shop is worth a (long) browse.

MauiWine, ʻUlupalakua Vineyards: This is Maui’s only winery, open since 1974. The winery is built around historic buildings from the original ranch and is just down the road from the vineyard, which encompasses 23 acres of beautiful Maui countryside.

Horseback Riding

While most people automatically picture the beaches and stunning coastline when they think of Hawaii — a completely accurate depiction — the mountains and highlands are as much a part of the islands as the ocean.

Taking a horseback ride along mountain trails offers a way to see Maui that is unlike much of the scenery you’ll find doing other activities.

Piiholo Ranch, near Lahaina, is the perfect place to do this. The ranch has been in the Baldwin family for seven generations and is located in Maui’s Upcountry at the edge of the rainforest, 2,000 feet above the Pacific Ocean.

With plenty of wide open ranges for horseback riding and panoramic views, Baldwin’s legacy trail makes for a fascinating Hawaiian “paniolo” cowboy adventure.

Waterfalls & Stunning Overlooks along the Hana Highway

When you’re ready to start the actual Road to Hana, the route begins just outside Paia town, at the intersection of Hana Highway 36 and 360/Baldwin Avenue. And be sure to fill up with gas — this is the last place to do so before reaching Hana, some 50 miles, 54 (mostly one-lane) bridges, and 600 hairpin turns.

While the actual driving takes around three hours, give or take, you’ll want to allow much longer in order to take in the wonderful sights along the way that make this one of the best drives in the world.

The route passes a number of stunning waterfalls, including Twin Falls (Mile Marker 2), Upper Waikani Falls (MM 19), Twin Falls (MM 24) and Wailua Falls (MM 45).

There are also a number of overlook vistas that are must-stops — especially since the entire drive is pretty much a series of jaw-dropping moments, but the sharp curves and lack of road shoulder make it impossible (and dangerous) to pull over much of the way.

Don’t miss a stop at Ho’okipa Lookout (MM 9) and Wailua Valley State Wayside (MM 12), where a climb up the stairs to the viewing platform affords amazing views look down onto the historic village and taro fields of Wailua, set against the deep blue waters of the Pacific.

Beaches, Parks, Caverns — and Local Refreshments

Waiʻānapanapa State Park (MM 32) offers one of the best, and most interesting, beaches in Maui. The 122-acre state park has a black sand beach, tide pools, seabird colonies, lava tubes, blowholes, freshwater caves that you can explore, and a natural stone arch.

Other beautiful beaches worth a visit include Hamoa Beach (MM 50) and Koki Beach (MM 51), a good spot for surfing.

Maui’s explosive past is on full display at the Keʻanae Peninsula (MM 16). Stretches of green fields are stopped in their tracks against a black, jagged shore of lava rocks, a lasting reminder of the incredible lava flow from Haleakala Crater that created this peninsula.

Today, this dramatic seascape is a must-see for both photo ops and a taste of Hawaii — the shave ice and banana bread at Aunty Sandy’s are legendary.

For an adventure beneath ground, check out Kaʻ Eleku Cavern (1/2 mile off the highway at MM 31). This is a long underground lava tube that visitors can walk through; they also have picnic grounds and cool botanical garden maze.

As you near Hāna Town — one of the most isolated communities in the state — a stop at Coconut Glen’s (MM 27.5) is a must. This iconic ice cream stand is well known in the area for its delicious, non-dairy & vegan ice cream made with coconut milk. The stand has a cool little vibe as well; look for the giant chair created by actual living plants.

Hana itself is a great place to chill for a few days — and you’ll find it is completely unlike the rest of Maui. This is really a small, sleepy little village, and the place to relax. If you’re into eco-retreats with plenty of room and natural beauty, stay at Ala Kakui, a small retreat and native Hawaiian cultural center.

Another option is the Travaasa Resort, with a world-class spa, Preserve Kitchen + Bar, and a host of daily activities from yoga and canoeing to bamboo pole fishing and lei making.

Road to Hana website

Written by GoNomad

Things You Need to Know Before Visiting Nicaragua That Guide Books Won’t Tell You

By Heide Brandes

The temperature was a thick and moist 90 degrees in Rivas, Nicaragua when the old man started yelling at me and my fiancé Ash in Spanish.

He was stooped over with legs so arthritic that they bowed out like a wishbone, but his crisp white linen suit and shiny black shoes made it clear he wasn’t a beggar or one of the streets homeless.

We both stopped, and the old man ignored me while continuing to yell at Ash. Since neither of us spoke Spanish, knowing what he was so publicly upset about taking a while, but it came down to the shorts Ash was wearing.

Offended by the Shorts

He was offended by the shorts. Apparently, Ash should have worn long pants and a nicer shirt. I could only imagine what he thought of me in my tank top and shorty shorts.

We shrugged at him apologetically, but this old man hobbled behind us for a block berating us on our lack of respectable clothing. He wasn’t the only one.

In many places in Nicaragua, when visiting the town center, people are expected to dress up and dress conservatively.

That little tip was one of many I wish we knew before visiting this Central American country. Nicaragua is a country of contradictions in many ways. You can surf the slopes of an active volcano and you can swim in oceans as blue as Navajo turquoise.

Before visiting Nicaragua, be aware of those surprises that the guidebooks won’t tell you.

A Dollar for Some Grass

Ash and I had just landed in Managua and were struggling to haul our luggage to the bus that would take us to our rental car when a cheeky little slip of a boy ran up to me and pressed a blade of grass, tied into a sweet little knot, into my hand.

“How nice,” I said, grinning at Ash. I smiled at the boy and crawled into the bus.

Suddenly, this cheeky little boy was screaming at me, his hand held out demandingly. He kept yelling at me until one of the other passengers told me he expected money for that gift, and in a fit of confusion and embarrassment, I pulled out a dollar and gave it to him.

The Chiclet gum hawkers are easy to spot, but the adorable little children handing you offerings aren’t. If you allow a “porter” to “help” you carry your luggage, you’ll be expected to pay. Those free maps others try to give you aren’t free either.

So unless you really like that knotted grass, just shake your head politely to anyone who offers gifts or assistance.

Upgrade or Upchuck

I’m a spend-thrift. I admit this freely.

In Nicaragua, though, upgrade your rental car. We decided to go cheap and ended up with a tiny stick shift car with no power steering, no power breaks, no locks but on the driver’s door and, horror of all horrors, no GPS. In a country where street signs are sometimes as elusive as the howler monkeys, a GPS is vital.

Be prepared to share the road in that rickety little rental too. While driving the highways, we dodged potholes with 18-wheelers, red bicycle taxis, ox-drawn carts, horse-drawn buggies, motorcycles, herds of cattle, wandering horses and the occasional baby sitting in the highway. Seriously, we dodged a baby on a major road.

Dress like the Locals

Unless you are in the party surf town of San Juan Del Sur on or the Caribbean Corn Islands, dress in long pants or skirts. The conservative Catholic culture means that even in 100-degree heat, people consider it rude to dress in very short shorts or skirts.

Even on the shores of Lake Nicaragua inland, most families swam in shorts and T-shirts, not swimsuits.

The rule changed when we arrived on Little Corn Island off the Caribbean coast near Bluefields. This island, which is only accessible by giant, open-air canoe-like boats (or the ferry, for the faint of heart), is a getaway for anyone looking for an island paradise without all the tourists or fancy resorts.

The hour-long, $165 round trip flight from Managua to the Big Corn Island is an easy way to get rid of your crappy rental car and spend a few hassle-free days on the islands. But, the flight only leaves twice a day, so call ahead of time for reservations or book it the night before.

Little Corn Island (), only 1.5 square miles, is home to roughly 800 people who speak Creole English and Spanish, and the popular activities include fishing, snorkeling, horseback riding, day drinking, sunbathing, night time parties, yoga, paddle boarding, and massage.

Ash and I decided on deep sea fishing. On Little Corn Island, deep sea fishing does not mean boarding a huge fishing boat with technical gear, but loading up in a tiny bass boat with one guide, a couple of fishing poles and a diesel engine puking up black smoke.

By noon, both Ash and I were doing our own puking over the side of the boat as the tiny vessel churned through the high waves, turning our insides into a stew from too much sun and engine smoke.

The four Red Snapper we caught was worth the bout of seasickness, and once back on shore, we found a man in a shack to clean the fish and cook it up right on the sand, seasoning it with garlic and a magical mix of Creole seasonings that lit the mouth on fire.

Killer Volcanoes

Before giving up on mainland life and escaping to the islands, Ash and I aimed for Isla Ometepe. Ometepe is an island in the middle of the great Lake of Nicaragua and home to two volcanoes, Concepcion and the dangerous Maderas, who claims the lives of wayward hikers every year.

If you take a ferry to Isla Ometepe (ferry schedule:  ), be prepared to pay a couple of times. You’ll pay a fare to ride the ferry, a

fare for tourism tax, a fare for taking a vehicle and another tax. If you do not speak Spanish, this can become very confusing when the fare collectors come by yelling “Blanco auto?” over and over looking for the owner of the crappy white rental car.

If you hike Maderas, you’ll need a guide. Every year, hikers get lost on the rabbit warren of trails, fall off cliffs, die from over-exertion or simply disappear among the slopes of the volcano.

I found my guide by simply asking the waiters at the small nature lodge of Finca del Sol, that we lived in for three days. The English-speaking waiters knew a guy who knew a guy. Also, don’t smile overly much at non-English-speaking waiters. They think you are creepy.

Even with a guide, I was vastly unprepared for how challenging the hike was. For one, howler monkeys roar from the dark jungle-like angry gods and they like to pee and throw feces at you.

The trail itself is straight up the slope and bees the size of small birds will dive bomb your head all the way up. About three-quarters of the way up, my guide Marco announced that “we are coming to the hard part. It’s all knee-deep mud from here.”

I know when I’m beat. I looked across the vast vista from nearly the top of Maderas and bowed my head at her dominance.

“Let’s go back down,” I said, and Marco cheerfully agreed. Three hours later, we were sitting in the sparkling natural pools of Ojo de Agua, sipping straight magical rum out of coconuts.

Other Things to Consider

Nicaraguans love children. You can use this to your advantage when visiting with locals or trying to ask directions. People tend to be friendlier to tourists with small ones tagging along.

Never leave your luggage in your vehicle unattended. You’re likely to never see it again.

Try the island dish called Rundown, a one-dish seafood stew that looks like a murder scene, but is filled with chunks of fish, conch, lobster, coconut milk, root vegetables, plantains and more.

This local dish is prepared by all the island “mamas” and is named for how anything they have lying around is “run down” into a stew.

That being said, consider Nicaragua. Good luck, and keep your pants on.

Ometepe website

Ometepe ferry schedule

Hotel Finca del Sol

Ojo de Agua pools

Little Corn Island

Heide Brandes is an award-winning journalist and editor with more than 18 years of experience as a reporter and editor. She has been published in Forbes, Silicon66, Bloomberg News, The Red Dirt Report, Splurge OK!, The Guardian UK, The Wall Street Journal, The Washington Post, TrailGroove Magazine, Destinations Travel Magazine, New York Daily News and the New York Times. She is also the Oklahoma correspondent for Reuters News Service. Besides freelancing full time, Heide is an avid traveler, a medieval warrior, hiker, professional belly dancer and belly dance instructor and kind of a quirky chick who lives in Oklahoma City. 

Written by GoNomad

A journey to the Island in the Sky: Africa’s Uluru

By Matthew Sterne

It is in Cape Maclear that I first hear about the Island in the Sky.

We are sitting on the deck of the guesthouse watching the sun setting over Lake Malawi when a girl at my table starts describing her hike up Malawi’s biggest mountain. While the fishermen bring in their

boats and local boys sing to passers-by I focus on her story.

On a round-the-world trip, she describes Mount Mulanje as better than Machu Pichu. Her giddy descriptions of the walks and views of her three-day experience are so impassioned I change my plans. With a short amount of time left on my trip and a hankering for a broader experience, I set off the next day for Mount Mulanje.

The Lake of Stars

My journey started ten days before in Malawi’s capital Lilongwe and I immediately aimed for the lake and Nkhata Bay. As a land-locked country, Malawi’s huge source of income and pride is the massive Lake Malawi.

Often referred to as the ‘Lake of Stars’, a name so delightfully coined by David Livingstone, it is the third largest lake in Africa.

With one thousand different fish species, hippos, crocodiles and fish eagles calling the lake home the nature alone is a serious attraction but really it is the people that make a stay in Malawi so unique.

Despite the poor living standards in Malawi and high HIV-infection rates, Malawians are undeniably upbeat.  The people of Malawi are one of the happiest in the world and everyone seems to be smiling and eager to chat and interact.

This omnipotent joy is contagious and the highlight of almost any trip to Malawi. The cheerfulness seems to affect each traveler with a genuine bliss which makes it that much easier to savor the beauty of the lake.

The start of my bus journey to Nkhata Bay was delayed as we waited hours for the bus to fill up. ‘This is Africa’, as my Dad (or any other person who has watched Blood Diamond) would say.

Most of the first few hours were spent with every toddler on the bus screaming in horror at the sight of me and my pale face.

They would innocently peer my way and immediately break out into dreadful crying sobs. I was initially alarmed by my effect on the kids but the laughter of the other passengers soothed any anxiety I had.

“Every day is Christmas here”

Twelve hours later I arrived in the enchanting Nkhata Bay. I liked the place, a small ramshackle dusty street village, and loved the lake. Surrounded by African jungle the lake was warm, wonderful to swim in and full of tasty fish. Local fishermen in dugouts paddled around while I took in the view from my balcony.

There was a fantastic carefree feeling in the town, almost like an island vibe. As one local so gladly put it, “every day is Christmas here”. It is one of those places where you dream of starting your own backpackers one day, a sublime paradise one could spend every day but I had to keep moving.

I took things even slower at my next destination, the idyllic setting of Monkey Bay, where I lazed in hammocks, went on afternoon walks into the town and ate avocados the size of melons.

My third stop was the popular Cape Maclear, where I went on boat tours to the islands and quickly developed a snorkeling obsession.    

The Island in the Sky

Now, I am in a banana-packed mini-bus on the way to Mulanje. This tiny village is at the base of the mountain that shares the same name and is the access point of the hike.  It is late afternoon as we approach along a dirt road through well-ordered tea plantations and dusty soccer fields.

Along the road, I catch only fleeting glimpses of the mountain and suggestions of its magnitude. By the time the bus arrives in the town I still can’t capture the mountain in one view, it seems like we have arrived at the side entrance.

Emerging from the grove of bananas that is my mini-bus I am greeted by John, a local mountain guide. He walks with me up to my accommodation at the base of the mountain. As we walk he tells me about the hike and the supplies we will need which he will organize.

He is a quiet and intense young man and seems as excited as I am to do the hike. For the third time in my trip I spend the night as the single guest in a lodge (I have unknowingly gone in the rainy season, the downfall of a spontaneously booked trip) and go to bed early in anticipation for the next day.

We meet in the early morning mist at the base of the mountain, a fittingly mysterious rendezvous and start our ascent briskly. We set off through a sparse wood, crossing a river and passing women and children collecting firewood.

Blue monkeys play in the trees above us as the wood thickens and becomes a lush jungle. We tramp through the dense vegetation and shortly come upon steeper terrain. For a few hours it is strenuous work as we scramble up on our hands and knees.

High School Girlfriend

While I huff away John tells me about the mountain, his life, his village and how he needs more money if he wants to marry his girlfriend who is still in high school.

While still on the steepest paths we pass poachers carrying off timber. John tells me how they sleep in the caves and take many days to find the trees, cut them down and then carry them out.

I criticize their crime and then move on to berating the society where they are forced into such a way of life. John explains that many of the men simply do not have any choice and we leave it at that. 

The hills have eyes

Eventually we push through the challenging terrain and reach the plateau. As we trek the last few kilometres to the hut the mist lifts and by the time we reach our destination it is a bright sunny day.

The hut is a simple house run by an old warden who speaks no English but every now and then breaks into a delightful cackling laugh. Despite being a rather old man he has a young family and invites us to join them for lunch.

It is a warm gesture but a strange experience. The warden’s one-eyed wife impassively stirs the ntsima, the very popular and cheap local porridge, in a big black pot while staring at me with her good eye.

Their two young sons sit opposite me, also staring, nonchalantly chewing on either end of a boiled rat. Tail and claws and teeth and all. I eat my lunch of ntsima and tiny fish with many bones, say my thanks and leave while the boys finish off the last of the rat.   

A geological surprise

After lunch John takes me to the viewpoint. We walk for half an hour and then suddenly the panorama appears quickly, almost surprisingly. We turn a corner and there it is. The shock of the view washes over me as I slow down, stop and take it all in.

The drop to the tea plantations far below is severe and straight allowing an unhindered view of the surrounding area. All of Africa seems to stretch out before us. Through the vastness I pretend to see Mount Kilimanjaro on one side and Victoria Falls on the other.

The horizon is flat and complete and feels impossibly far away. Out of this plain Mulanje rises up with no warning, a geological surprise, like an African Uluru, staggering and magnificent.

We are silent as we take in the sweeping vista. While sitting on top of the Island in the Sky and staring out over the land I think that this is a perfect finish to a memorable and refreshing two weeks in Malawi.

The lake might be Malawi’s main attraction but the string of unique experiences and gleeful faces has made the holiday even more special. As always it is the people that make a place what it is. I sit savoring the moment, cherishing the view and quietly praising the genuine friendliness and joyful spirit of Malawi.

Eventually, we turn and start back to the hut.

Matthew Sterne is a freelance writer from Cape Town, South Africa. He has worked in an ice cream factory in Norway, a camel safari in India and a pub crawl in Amsterdam. He has been a door-to-door salesman in Australia, a club bouncer in America and a kayak sea guide in Greece. His family says he lacks direction but he knows exactly where he is going. Everywhere. 

Written by GoNomad

By Billie Tyler

Gili Trawangan is an infamous backpacker island located off the coast of Lombok, Indonesia.

It’s an island known for its nightlife, boat parties, themed events, western food, cheap booze and hostels crowded with young faces, a kind of ‘mini Ibiza’ of Indonesia if you will.

But don’t be put off by this stereotype, take a step off the backpacker route and you’ll find the island has much more to offer!

Transport: Bali – Gili T

When traveling to this area of Indonesia you will most likely be landing in Bali (Denpasar) due to low airfare costs. Bali has an unlimited amount of travel agents, street sellers, and booking offices that organize buses and boats to Gili T daily.

You have two options, take the fast boat (2hrs) or the slow boat (4hrs). Sadly I was on a time limit and booked within the first office I stumbled across. 

They charged me 350’000IDR ($26) for a minivan pick up from my hotel, drop off at the pier and a two hour (fast boat) direct to Gili T. Whilst on the boat I overheard a girl saying she paid only 90’000IDR ($6.75) so make sure to shop around and haggle or you’ll end up paying big bucks like me!

Boat from Bali

On the day of my departure it was stormy and raining like crazy, I expected the boats to be called off but of course not, it’s Indonesia! They packed forty of us on a tiny boat.

There wasn’t any leg room, ventilation, windows or outside seating area, just a hot sweaty box with sick bags hanging up in every corner (they came in handy a fair few times!).

I’d like to say it was the weather that caused such an uncomfortable journey but I genuinely think it was the size and temperature of the boat. Just don’t expect a grand entrance onto the island and you won’t be disappointed.

Welcome to Gili T

Whilst walking the main town area for the first time you could be forgiven for thinking you had arrived in Jamaica.

Bands playing Bob Marley covers, Jamaican flags plastered on every wall like shrines dedicated to Bob himself, local dreadlocked men offering bouquets of marijuana and magic mushrooms, shops displaying signs like ‘’No Woman No Cry, No Mushrooms No Fly!’’  pushing their specialty mushroom shakes as a ‘’Ticket To The Moon’’. Cocaine and crystal meth are also sold publicly.

This is what I found the most incredible. Indonesia has the harshest penalties for drug use, the smallest amount could land you life imprisonment or the most common punishment, death.

Yet this island promotes drugs loud and proud! The Island itself is Muslim, drug and alcohol use should be frowned upon but it’s actually a large part of their culture, which they cherish.

Police don’t operate on Gili T, but when they do make a random appearance they normally hang out with the dealers anyway!

On the flipside, you can also find incredible vegan and vegetarian restaurants, PADI certified diving schools, five resorts, a turtle conservation and quaint French-themed bakeries. The contrast is staggering—crystal meth to vegan burgers!?

Exploring the Island

Transport on the island is limited.  They have horses and carts which I personally didn’t use as they’re clearly malnourished, or a bicycle, which everyone has!

The locals prefer the sound of a passing bicycle bell as opposed to the sound of a car horn in the morning, therefore there isn’t a single car or scooter on the island.

Renting out a bicycle is extremely easy, you pick your bike, pay the man and off you go! No passports or details are wanted. The average daily cost is 50’000IDR ($3.75) but as we stayed for ten nights we haggled it down to 35’000 ($2.60)

The island is only 15 km by two, meaning you can take a slow relaxing ride around the whole island within an hour. The main road trails the coastline, giving you a beautiful ocean view along with locals waving at you to buy their freshly pressed coconut oil.

Along the seafront, you’ll find plenty of beach bars with multi colored bean bags where you can relax under umbrellas, drink watermelon shakes while watching the locals practice their ukuleles.

Early morning yoga classes commence as paddle boarders, scuba divers and snorkelers head out to spot the turtles feeding on the coral.

Shops sell handmade patchwork clothes, cosmetics, knock-off Havaianas, and various small trinkets to take home as gifts.

Food glorious food, what more could you wish for?

From corn on the cob and pizza to falafel and local cuisine. The choices are endless. Budget travelers tend to grab dinner at the food market.

Three dollars will get you a serving of rice with five toppings of your choice, mostly vegetables, tempeh and tofu, a vegetarians dream! Holiday-makers and honeymooners tend to graze in five-star restaurants with bands performing covers of their choice.

Beach Life

Sunsets are amazing on Gili T. There are swings out at sea you can sit and watch the sunset from, it makes a beautiful picture, too! Horse riding on the beach front is my personal favorite.

It’s 100’000IDR ($7:50) for twenty minutes. You trot in the sea and gallop across the shore while the sun is setting, a truly magical experience! These horses, by the way, are not working horses, they have western stables, vets, and owners, no problem on that front.

Tracing the shore line are comfortable deck chairs, candles, fairy lights, bean bags, vibrant colored umbrellas, fire shows and so much more. The locals don’t hold back on decoration!

The Down Side

If you’re someone who enjoys running into the sea diving in head first without the risk of head-butting a huge lump of concrete then this island may not be for you.

Don’t get me wrong, the beaches are good, but the excessive use of anchors and tourists incorrectly scuba diving and snorkeling have meant that the corals have died and are now washing up on shore in large amounts.

I’d suggest buying aqua socks/sea shoes as getting in and out of the sea is an awkward task.

Overall, Gili T is one unique, exciting, paradise island populated by the kindest of locals.

Whether you’re an experienced backpacker or first-time holiday goer this island will suck you in and treat you like royalty. Just grab your bags, book that flight and experience the music, mushrooms, and magic!

Insider tips

–  Try to search for rooms on foot, you’ll find better rooms for cheaper prices.

– Ask for imported alcohol when drinking, methanol poisoning still happens in Indonesia.

– When traveling long journeys buy individual tickets at the main bus stations/ports. Tourist centers overcharge you, significantly.

– Download Maps.me on your smartphone, it’s an offline, detailed map which will come in handy!

Boat to the Gilis – www.Gilibookings.com

For the ultimate beach bums:  Horse riding on the beach, my favorite!!

Always a beautiful sunset on Gili T

Billie Tyler is a 23-year-old traveler from Somerset, UK. She has been traveling for the last four years, managing to explore 40 countries. During her time abroad she started blogging her experiences and personal encounters. She is currently based in Thailand training as an aerial arts teacher until her next big adventure.

Written by GoNomad

 Exploring the Underwater World of the Ningaloo Reef

By Monica Puccetti

The chaotic world of civilization falls further and further away as the odometer climbs higher. Kilometer after kilometer tick by, seemingly in time with the road kill. One dead kangaroo, one kilometer driven.

It’s the strange, wild math of the Australian outback.

The arid, desolate land stretches far into the horizon, giving one the sense that they will forever be stuck in this land of spinifex, doomed to try to survive on a plant even camels refuse to touch.

I glare at a particularly large bush on the side of the road like it has personally offended me.

Perhaps it has, after all once one has walked unawares through the horrid plains of spinifex one will forever have a healthy hatred of this plant and its microscopic thorns with a penchant for embedding themselves under sensitive skin.

Grateful for the Gust

Dry wind whips in the open window of our 1999 Land Cruiser Troop Carrier, affectionally named Terrance. My sticky skin is grateful for the gust, but nothing can fight the sweat currently accumulating from my neck to my knees.

We love Terrance and all his old car quirks, but sometimes I do wish we had a working air conditioner.

How much would it cost to fix? I wonder as I stare vacantly out into the bush. A couple hundred at most, ya, we should think about that…

“We’re here!” Kane calls triumphantly, if a little exhausted, from the driver’s seat, snapping me out of my internal monologue.

In a heartbeat, the landscape has transformed from the endless parched bushland of the west coast of Australia to an inviting seascape of rolling white dunes surrounding a crystalline turquoise bay.

The ocean has snuck up on us. I cannot get to the beach fast enough, practically falling out of our oven of a car in the process. I remind myself it’s not Terrance’s fault his air conditioner is broken and then promptly forget everything except the bay in front of me.

I’ll apologize to the car later, I’ve got snorkeling to do.

Into the Blue

Our first stop in the is the aptly named Turquoise Bay. A ribbon of fine, snowy sand curves around a bay of clear turquoise water, creating the perfect beach.

This beach has everything, I think to myself as I ditch my sweaty clothes and wade into the shallow water. I soon realize that not only does Turquoise Bay wow from land, it awes from beneath the waves.

Schools of inquisitive dart fish flash between our legs as we walk up to the drop-off. The crisp water caresses my body as I dive into the blue, a refreshing break from the winter heat of Northwest Australia.

Spangled Emperors the size of small dogs swim lazily around us, content in the knowledge that this is a marine sanctuary and that they have a very limited chance of ending up as someone’s dinner.

We spend almost an hour floating around the calm right side of the bay, but as the day gets later the wind picks up. The wind is starting to strengthen the already formidable current and we opt to pass on snorkeling the left side of the bay, the famous drift.

The currents in Turquoise Bay are caused by a build-up of water in the lagoon behind the reef that then rushes back out to sea. It is advisable not to snorkel on the sand spit that acts as a barrier between the two sides of the bay and as a funnel out to sea.

However, in good conditions, the left side of the bay, the drift, is considered some of the best snorkeling in the park.

On the Edge of Nowhere

The reef here is part of the Ningaloo Coast, a world heritage area on the west coast of Australia. The Ningaloo reef is the world’s largest fringing reef and the only reef of its size near any land mass.

This makes the Ningaloo reef one of the most accessible large coral reef systems in the world, easily rivaling the Great Barrier for diversity while making seeing it as easy as wading into the shallow water.

The irony here is that while it is accessible in the manner of entry, one does not need to pay big bucks to take a boat out to the deep reef, it is probably one of the most remote places in the world.

The Ningaloo Coast stretches 300 kilometers and contains 2,435 square kilometers of the protected marine reserve, but it is 1,200 kilometers from the nearest city, Perth, which also happens to be the most remote city in the world.

The only real towns near the reef are Coral Bay, to the south, or Exmouth, to the north. Coral Bay is tiny, a glorified caravan park, and while Exmouth is slightly larger, it still would not register as a town in most developed countries.

The only other human life on the Ningaloo Coast is at the cattle stations that border the reef, the two most popular for camping being Warroora Station and Ningaloo Station.

The best way to see the Ningaloo Coast is to drive it, as while there is an airport in Exmouth, flights are expensive, rare, and altogether not worth it.

Most people opt to make the Ningaloo a stop on a larger road trip around Australia because the distances out west are just too large to make a short trip worth it. This is our first big stop on our three-month overland journey from Perth to Darwin.

Part of Their World

The next day we are up with the soft light of dawn, the usual for a night spent in a tent. Groggily, we make our breakfast, grab our snorkel gear, and drive the 60 kilometers back into the park. Today we are headed to Oyster Stacks, a section of shallow reef just off a rocky entry point. One can only snorkel at Oysters Stacks on the high tide, so we stop at the visitor’s center on the way in to check tide times.

We enter the water at 10 am, slightly later than intended as we managed to lock our keys in the car. Thanks to the help of some friendly German backpackers, their tent hook, and Terrance’s less than secure back door we still have time to snorkel before the mandatory exit time of 12:30 pm.

The current pulls us up the coast to the left of the entry point, but we don’t fight it. Instead, we let ourselves drift along on this aqua travelator. Huge parrot fish nibble brilliantly blue coral heads as we drift

overhead. Massive conglomerations of hundreds of different types of fish dart about the stacks of coral that give this stunning site its name.

Clark’s anemonefish play hide and seek while convict surgeonfish swirl above them in ever changing schools. Blue spotted rays glide silently through the water, their wings swishing with the grace of an aquatic acrobat. I can’t help but feel like I’ve been dropped into a world-famous aquarium.

As we float along in this world under the waves, I muse over the sheer abundance of life on the Ningaloo Coast. The Ningaloo is home to more than 500 distinct species of fish (reef and pelagic), 300 species of coral, 600 species of mollusks, and the largest congregations of whale sharks in the world (it is estimated that the population is between 300 and 500 from March to June).

This is one of the few places in the world where whale sharks are so common that the dive boats guarantee a swim with these benevolent giants.

Here, on this tiny tip of land on the edge of nowhere, you can swim with massive manta rays, stare down buff kangaroos on the side of the road, spot a shy dugong, be ignored by proud dingos, float in schools of tropical fish more diverse than in any aquarium, and even have a strangely intense moment going eye to eye with a clearly intelligent and clearly pissed off octopus while trying to free it from a fishing hook.

Yet, despite all this, most Australians have never even heard of this reef that rivals the Great Barrier, let alone swum in its diverse waters.

Such a pity, I think as I almost run into a snapper. The meaty red fish darts off and I swear I see it glance back at me, a peeved look in its inhuman eyes. I wonder, do fish complain about the idiocy of tourists?

The Smell of Adventure

Reluctantly, I climb out of the water. The sun is high in the sky, signaling noon and the end of high tide. We pile into Terrance, showering him with salt and sand, and head back to our campsite at the Exmouth Lighthouse Caravan Park. The smell of sunscreen, sweat, and salt mingles with old car smell and I breathe it in like a fine perfume, the smell of adventure.

Want to Go?

Accommodations

There are two main options for visiting the Cape Range National Park section of the Ningaloo Coast, camping in the Cape Range National Park Campground or staying in Exmouth town and driving into the park every day. If you want to stay in the park you need to book in advance on their online booking system.

To book a site go to parkstay.dpaw.wa.gov.au. We stayed at the Exmouth Lighthouse Caravan Park due to its location midway between Exmouth town and the Cape Range National Park. We stayed on an unpowered campsite for $31 AUD per night; this includes the use of all facilities, i.e. laundry, showers, toilets, and camp kitchen.

Call 08 9949 1478 for bookings if you are in Australia or go to www.ningaloolighthouse.com for more information. Exmouth Lighthouse Caravan Park happily accepts walk ups, bookings are not necessary unless you are traveling over school holidays.

Getting There

Exmouth Airport is the only option to fly into the area, however, most visitors to the Ningaloo drive. If you are an overseas visitor there are many different campervan or caravan rental options, the most common being Britz Campervan Hire, www.britz.com.au, and Maui Campervans, www.maui.com.au.

However, campervan hires can get expensive for long-term travel, such as three months or more, and many backpackers opt to buy a car then sell it at the end of their trip. One good website for used car sales is www.gumtree.com.au. It is important to note that many of the roads in this area are unsealed and 4×4 only.

Cape Range National Park Entry

A day pass to any national park in Western Australia (WA) is $12 AUD and if you are driving in every day you will need to pay the entry fee every day. A four week National Parks Pass costs $44 AUD and can be purchased onsite at any WA National Park. The pass covers unlimited entry to all WA National Parks during a four-week period.

Services

The only services; food, fuel, etc.; are located in Exmouth town. The Cape Range National Park is remote and there is only bush camping available so make sure you bring all food, water, and fuel you need in with you. Prepare wisely.

Monica Puccettiis originally from California. She has gotten lost in 35 countries, writes about her adventures on her website, www.whichwayswest.com, and is currently counting kangaroos somewhere in the outback of Western Australia.

Riding The Lunatic Line across Kenya

In Swahili, they called it “The Iron Snake.” Aging, poorly maintained and perpetually late, this 120-year-old relic made its last wheezing journey in 2017, a symbol of Old Africa. Greg Kelsey rode the line in late 2016.

By Greg Kelsey

I had been staying at Diani Beach, on the Kenyan coast, where the sands were of the purest white, the days warm, and the resort bar well-stocked. So relaxing was my sojourn, that I had forgotten to apply sunscreen on a snorkeling trip and my back was the same color and texture as sashimi.

Unfortunately, I couldn’t stay forever. I had to catch a plane from Nairobi in three days, and I had decided to take advantage (if that’s the word) of the infamous train journey from Mombasa to the capital.

There was a certain amount of foreboding on my part: the first-class compartments were doubles, and it was likely that I would be bunked with a stranger, hopefully not an Al-Shabab terrorist.

Booking the beast is no mean feat. A website, apparently put together by a person with kindergarten level skills, both in the English language and at website construction, requests your details and the proposed date of travel, and in return you receive a stuttering response, requesting that you immediately make payment.

I was apprehensive: what sensible person gives their credit card details online in Africa? Yet my choices were limited, and with trepidation, I keyed in my digits.

I closed my eyes as I hit ‘enter’. Within minutes, a further email arrived, thanking me with gratitude, and enclosing an odd receipt/voucher in Excel.

My ticket would be available for collection on the day of travel from the ticketing office, it said.

Uncrowded Station

My taxi driver was unfamiliar with the entrance to the station, which rather suggested a low level of popularity. He circled the platform before asking a random security guard for directions and was shown to a pot-holed track that looked like nothing so much as a quarry.

At the end was a dirty shack made from scraps of corrugated iron left over from when Moses was patching the ark. A sign proclaimed it to be the fabled ticketing office.

The service window was a curious device, with iron bars protecting the occupant from molestation. The bars were in two layers, each running perpendicularly for greater effect.

I squinted into the darkness and thought I saw a fellow in the depths. An old man in his hundreds sat on the bench outside, smoking and muttering imprecations to himself.

“Hello?” I called into the mire.

“Yes?” returned a terse voice.

“I have a ticket, today, for Mombasa.”

“Where is it then?”

“I got an email. I can show it to you on my phone.”

He was unimpressed. “What was the name?” I gave it, and he shuffled through one pile of green books, then another. Nothing grabbed him.

“I don’t have it,” he said.

With difficulty, I shoved my phone between the bars to prove my veracity. He looked at it, and sighed like his mother was dying.

“Wait.” He said, testily. He made a call, presumably to the Nairobi office. It went on endlessly and I sat down on the bench next to the old guy, seeking shade. He nodded. “Jambo,” he said, agreeably.

After a few moments I heard a faint call. “Gregory, Gregory…” It was like the chirping of a baby bird from within a deep well. I went back to the window. My server was less than impressed.

“I was calling for you, why you not respond?” he asked.

Because you’re behind a soundproof wall, I thought. “Sorry,” I said.

“Your ticket is in Nairobi,” he said, unimpressed.

“Is it?”

“Yes.”

Silence.

“I think you travel on Wednesday.”

“No. Today.”

“But you have no ticket.”

“Yes I do.”

“Where is it?”

“In Nairobi, You just told me that,” I said. “I need to travel today. I have a plane to catch.”

“Then you’ll need to buy a ticket.”

“I have bought a ticket.”

“Yes, from an agent, but not from me. It is against the law to travel without a ticket.”

“But I do have a ticket.” This was getting a bit Abbott and Costello. Who’s on first?

He sighed. If he wanted me to buy another ticket so that he could collect a commission, it wasn’t going well. He wrote out a boarding pass and handed it over. “You will need to collect your ticket in Nairobi,” he said, although why I would do so after the train ride escaped me.

A 100-year-old Train Operation

The train was waiting on the platform, which was nothing more than a long, rusty shelter. I showed my pass to a guard and asked for directions.

“It’s all the way up there,” she gestured to the front of the train. Its inception was barely a blip on the horizon. I thanked her and set off.

This train has been in operation for over 100 years. Nowadays, a single black-throated diesel drags this machine over 600 miles to its destination, twice per week. It has a terrible reputation for punctuality: it can be as much as three days(!) late.

When I reach the front, my carriage and compartment are fairly easy to locate. My room is made for 2 people, with one fold-out bed at head height, and another at seat level.

The seats are grimy, blackened with the sweat of generations. A drinking water dispenser sits above a small sink and does, in fact, release a thin stream of liquid when teased into action, but whether it is actually water and/or drinkable is a question I don’t intend to investigate. A non-functional, art-deco fan ornaments the wall.

There are also two ash trays, a cup holder, a light, a rubbish bin, and cupboard. The corridor is barely wide enough for a single person of modest build. Two cannot pass.

The African sun is streaming in the window. It’s airless and roasting, and although I open a window, sweat drips from my arms almost instantly. There are toilets at each end of the carriage, and some are squats, the piss-hole leading directly onto the tracks. If I drop my glasses down there, they are gone for good.

This cabin is comfortable enough, but things will get awkward if I’m joined by a stranger, and I pray that the other seat isn’t booked. There is very little movement on the platform to suggest that there will be a rush of occupants, though.

At 4.55pm there is an announcement: the train will leave in five minutes, all passengers please board. Thankfully, no-one joins me, and I settle into solitary relaxation.

The train clunks into activity. Without fanfare, it rumbles slowly through the outskirts of Mombasa, where houses and shacks edge right up to the tracks, which seem to be somewhat of a refuse depot. Masses of household garbage mount up and stink the verge.

Small children make smiling runs alongside, waving and yelling “Jambo”. Some just stand, dreaming the train will one day take them away, out from the small compass of their lives and into something bigger. Eventually, the city gives way to savannah and small villages.

This line is properly known as the Uganda Railway, so named because the line was originally meant to terminate there, or at least at the close-by town of Kisumu, on the Eastern side of Lake Victoria. In fact, the line to Kisumu was discontinued in 2012. In the 1990s, the trip took 12 hours, though through neglect and lack of maintenance travel times have blown out to its current 24 hours.

Construction commenced in 1896 when European countries were scrambling for influence in Africa. The British East Africa Company employed over 30,000 Indian workers at the then extraordinary equivalent cost of 650 million pounds.

There is still a thriving Indian community in Kenya as a consequence.

Construction was far from smooth, with dozens of workers being killed by hungry lions, and it was dubbed “The Lunatic Line” by an angry and parsimonious British Parliament.

Meeting My Valet

A smiling fellow in a shabby uniform introduces himself as my valet and confirms that I’m the only passenger in my compartment. It turns out that this isn’t at all unusual: the train rarely carries more than a dozen in first class and 50 in total. A third-class ticket is only about $7.

Dinner will be served at 7 pm, he says, listen out for the bell. Most importantly, he says there is a bar, selling beer, open right now in the next carriage if I want one. By god, I want one: it’s sweltering, and my face must be gleaming with sweat.

Unfortunately, he proves to be wrong. Although the next carriage is definitely the dining car, there is no bar open, at least not yet. Well, we’ve only just started: perhaps they need a little while to set up.

In an hour, I again go searching. The dining car is deserted. I’m about to knock on the kitchen door when I hear the crash of a dozen pots and pans, accompanied by Swahili curses.

They’ve obviously come adrift with the jolting of the train and ended up on the floor. I don’t think my intrusion would be welcome, and I slink away.

Dinner Time on Board

At 7:30, a tinkling bell wanders through the carriage, announcing dinner, and I make my way to the dining car.

The rest of the first-class passengers are already there, and I’m asked to squeeze in with a pair of Polish fellows. Nice chaps. They, unlike me, have beer.

Two enormous, camouflaged guards join us for dinner, toting equally enormous automatic weapons. They sling them around rather carelessly, squeezing into their table.

I ask the waitress for a beer, and she promises to get me one, but she doesn’t.

A different waiter comes by, and I ask him for a beer. He nods.

Again, no beer arrives, but the food does–rice, cabbage, beef or chicken stew. We eat from ancient crockery with silverware on cracked leather seats. Immobile bakelite fans provide no relief from the heat. At one time, this may have been swish. In its early days, this service hosted dignitaries like President Roosevelt: he rode primarily on the front of the locomotive, in 1909.

I walk to the kitchen, where I remind them about the beer. Yes, someone will bring it. And this time it arrives, just cold enough, and I’m thankful.

Dinner is rounded off with tea and fruit. It’s not gourmet, but adequate. My new Polish friend extracts a bottle of vodka that he brought with him against just such a contingency and shares it around. It’s sweet, spicy and citric. He teaches us to say “cheers” in Polish. (“Naz-droh-vee-ay”).

After dinner, we retire to our compartments, which are still hot, despite the open window. The lower bunk has been made up into a bed.

Not an Easy Sleep

It’s not an easy night’s sleep. The train lurches between dangerous out-of-control speed, listless meandering, and complete inactivity. Well after midnight, the temperature cools sufficiently for me to pull up the blanket. My sunburn stings and these sheets are rough.

The next morning, the bell tinkles at 7, and I dress for breakfast. Baked beans, a small sausage, fried egg and toast, and get out we have another sitting.

The countryside is different now: wide plains and small farms. Larger, wealthier houses appear, and the occasional herd of zebra and wildebeest. We stop to pick up locals at small stations, neat grassy affairs without platforms. There is no drama or pushing, just the occasional box of clucking chickens.

Last Legs of the Lunatic Line

By the time I took my journey, in late 2016, the Lunatic Line was on its last legs. Its final trip was on 28 April 2017. Construction of the new standard gauge railway (“The Madaraka Express”) was completed in December 2016, with the first passenger service on 31 May 2017.

The journey should now take only 3-4 hours, and will be President Kenyatta’s legacy – should he survive the disputed 2017 election.

The new track generally follows the old route and was 90% funded by China at a cost of $3.6b USD. It’s eventually planned to connect with other standard gauge lines in East Africa and is constructed with viaducts and embankments to allow wildlife to cross safely.

Passing through Kibera Slum

As we approach Nairobi, the train passes through Kibera, Nairobi’s largest slum. Four million people live here, cheek by jowl, without running water.

Again, children jog by, yelling “Jambo” and dodging the community’s refuse.

At Nairobi Central, the train wheezes in, not a moment before it’s due, and I exit. I need my ticket from the booking office, and a guard retrieves it for me, allowing me to depart the aging platform.

This colonial edifice contains a railway museum for the trainspotters, and I suspect that the Lunatic Line will find its own way there soon. In the meantime, I hope that the new modern line is symbolic of an emerging Kenya.

Booking a Ticket

https://traintickets.co.ke

Business: 3000 Ksh (one way) – $29 USD

Economy: 1400 Ksh (one way) – $13.50 USD

Child: 50% adult prices

Where to Stay at Each End

Mombasa (Diani Beach)
Diani Beach is a short trip south of Mombasa. Uber is available in Kenya, and much cheaper than taxis.
I recommend Kenyaways Beach Hotel
Rooms range from $250 to $435 USD (3 nights)

Nairobi
In Nairobi, stay at the five-star Sarova Stanley hotel, first open in 1902, and a favorite of Ernest Hemingway’s. 
Rooms range in price from $450 to $120 USD

Greg Kelsey is a solo, pant’s seat traveler, and freelance writer. In the last five years, he could be found in East Africa, Qatar, Peru, Chile, Bolivia, Nepal, Vietnam, Cambodia, Vanuatu, New Zealand, Indonesia, and at home in Australia. His writings can be found at https://gregkelseywriter.com

St. Lucia’s Best Caribbean Hideaway: Marigot Bay Resort & Marina

By Janis Turk

Of all the Caribbean islands, St. Lucia is one of the most enchanting.

There, guests can stay tucked away on a private sparkling bay flanked by rainforest-covered mountains and a pristine little beach, making it a sublime vacation or honeymoon spot with a warm and windy West Indies vibe.

And with daily nonstop JetBlue flights from New York and nonstop service from Boston on Saturdays, getting to St. Lucia is a breeze. All the best island fun—like hot street parties and cool water sports—awaits, or you can simply unplug from city life and enjoy a leisurely day at the beach.

St. Lucia is home to many spectacular hotels and resorts, but my favorite is one far from where the cruise ships dock. For a truly luxurious experience, I like to stay at Marigot Bay Resort & Marina by Capella. Romantic, playful, scenic, and sexy, this stylish little resort offers rest and relaxation, along with plenty of opportunities for exciting island adventures.

Rum Cave Restaurant

Centered by two freshwater infinity pools on the upper and lower levels of the resort, Marigot Bay Resort also is home to a luxury spa, an active marina, attractive shops, boats and beaches, fine-dining restaurants, sushi bars and a swim-up watering hole, along with a newly renovated Rum Cave restaurant, featuring fun and informative rum tasting events.

The lavish resort has sprawling indoor/outdoor lounge spaces, garden pavilions, patios, cabanas, water features, and a private boardwalk. With stunning views of Marigot Bay (it’s been featured in movies), and with shimmering waters, and mountain flora and fauna, Marigot Bay Resort offers a blissful escape.

The resort’s 124 extravagantly handsome rooms and suites offer hot tubs, balconies, and West Indies-inspired décor.  You’ll feel as though you’re in your own private island residence, complete with five-star amenities and your own personal assistant.

A Personal Assistant for All Guests

Whether guests book the most expensive suite or simply a standard room, all are assigned their own Capella Personal Assistant who calls in advance of their trip to make their every desire is ready once they arrive. Once there, the personal assistant will book romantic dinner reservations, arrange a cruise from the resort’s own Capella Marina, or set up special island adventure excursions.

During my stay, the staff pampered me as I enjoyed an enormous one-bedroom suite, complete with a living room, ultra-contemporary kitchen, laundry room, spacious master bedroom, and grand master bath.

With my own deck overlooking the pool and Capella Marina, and with a private hot tub and fast dependable Wi-Fi, I couldn’t imagine nicer island accommodations.

Two- and three-bedroom suites are also available, and families with children will appreciate the resort’s “Zando’s” Kid’s Activity Program.

One of the highlights of my visit was an evening spent dining with Billy Boyle, Marigot Bay Resort & Marina’s executive chef, who carefully and skillfully cultivates the resort’s farm-to-fork dining experiences.

Chef Billy’s meticulously curated menus feature delicious, locally-sourced dishes inspired by fresh ingredients available seasonally from Saint Lucian farmers.

A local fisherman, called “Captain Warren,” even docks at the Rum Cave to deliver his catch of the day for the evening’s dinner.

Another blissful part of my stay was an afternoon at the Auriga Spa & Fitness at Marigot Bay Resort & Marina.

With views of the bay and mountains, the private indoor/outdoor spa village and fitness facilities are hidden among trees and verdant foliage, creating an exclusive oasis.

Before my treatment, I enjoyed the steam inhalation room, Jacuzzi, and sauna cabana, and a welcoming, grounding ceremony, which uses carefully selected herbs designed to prepare the body for the spa experience.

The large state-of-the-art fitness center was also handy day and night. The Spa village is even home to a treehouse gazebo, perfect for a romantic dinner for two or a special spa treatment setting.

With the resort’s marina’s shops, restaurant and sundries store, and with a ferry to take guests across the bay to LaBas Beach at Marigot, to swim, kayak, and more, guests never want to leave Marigot Bay.

But if you do, be sure to take a “Smooth Operator” private charter boat to the other side of the island (or you can ask your Capella Personal Assistant to arrange for a car).

Take day trips or half-day excursions to visit cocoa farms, or to bathe in natural hot springs, or take a volcano tour, and along the way pass through charming villages and see St. Lucia’s famous twin volcanic mountain peaks, the Pitons.

Visit Pigeon Island and Anse Cochon beaches, where snorkeling and diving is a delight. Or make a scenic climb up the Marigot Bay Ridge with the resort’s resident Ranger.

With all this to do and see in St. Lucia, you owe it to yourself to book your Marigot Bay getaway.

Visit www.marigotbayresort.com  to find out more.

ALL FISH FACES: Photos and Fun Facts about Tropical Reef Fish (Ocean Friends). In this new book by blogger Tam Warner Minton, children are introduced to the ocean’s fish.

The first book in the Ocean Friends series, this numbered seventy-page paperback targets children ages four to twelve years old who enjoy educational information and photographs about tropical fish. With no scary scenes but containing the possibility of being poisoned, it may be best read out loud by adults to beginner readers due to some complicated wording.

Minton explains the different types, features, and characteristics of tropical fish that include puffer, angel, butterfly, parrot, trigger, file, frog, toad, scorpion, lion, and boxfish as well as groupers, clownfish, anemonefish, and others. Also mentioned are ways to protect and preserve our oceans and coral reefs. All pictures include the name of the fish and location where found.

Now is the Time to Do Something Extraordinary!

By Tam Warner Minton

Several years ago, I watched a documentary that prompted me to reinvent my life. The documentary was about two marine biologists living in Tofo, Mozambique, studying Manta Rays and Whale Sharks.

I was captivated by the Mantas…I had never seen one while diving or snorkeling before, only through binoculars on the surface of the water. Having already had some experience with Whale Sharks, I was also extremely interested in their ecology.

The scientists, Dr. Andrea Marshall (aka Queen of Mantas) and Dr. Simon Pierce, were studying these species, which at that time were so abundant in Mozambique waters.

Sadly, the populations are now significantly impacted by unsustainable fishing practices. Their organization was Marine Megafauna Foundation (www.marinemegafauna.org) and the documentary was BBC’s Queen of Mantas.

Wanted to Help

I wanted to do something constructive, I wanted to contribute to helping the ocean and its animals. I began searching for dive trips where I could do some volunteer work, even to just do fish counts and surveys. All Out Africa (alloutafrica.com) had a program working with Whale Shark Identifications and fish population counting in Tofo, Mozambique, helping with the whale shark program I had seen on the documentary!

I thought, why can’t I do that? It was for adults, not a high school or college program or a gap year, but volunteering for adults. My family had a few reasons they did not want me traipsing off to Africa by myself, and I suppose there were some good reasons among them, but I made the decision to go. I booked my trip.

It appears crazy, absolutely nuts, to pick up and head off to Africa for six weeks by yourself, to live in an unpopulated area where there are no doctors, and the closest thing to a town, Inhambane, was at least an hour away over roads with potholes the size of Volkswagens.

There was no Decompression chamber in case of getting decompression sickness, known as “the bends”. The closest one was in Johannesburg. Not a hop skip and a jump away. The message? Don’t get sick.

So off I went a midlife woman with a passion for diving and animals, off on my very own adventure. It was the best gift I ever gave myself. I was tested physically (I’ve had two back surgeries and have a few other physical issues), emotionally, and mentally. There were times, especially at the beginning, when I thought there was no way I would be able to do it.

Exhilarating and Disturbing

The experience empowered me and made me understand my abilities and my strength in an entirely different light. The trip was challenging, the environment both exhilarating and disturbing, and certainly the living standard was not what I was used to.

I have been fortunate to lead a privileged lifestyle, but after my journey through southeastern Africa, I came to realize that one should have no complaints as long as there is fresh water to drink, food to eat, and a roof to keep out the weather. To say it was eye opening and life changing is an understatement.

Diving in rough water was a new experience because the currents and surges off of Mozambique are strong. The water is cold. I was used to the warm, clear waters of the Caribbean. It took me a few dives to get comfortable, and my first two dives were pretty awful. But, I adapted. I learned, and I kept at it no matter how inadequate I thought I was…

I stayed in a house of volunteers, sharing a bathroom with the house and a bedroom with a roommate, and ended up with some great friendships. I was the oldest one there, most of the volunteers being Europeans in their twenties, but we came together in our love of the ocean and its life. I have seen these friends since the trip, we keep in touch, and we have enjoyed diving together in other locales.

Since that time, Summer 2012, I have been on several citizen science expeditions (trips spent assisting scientists in research) and volunteer trips. I have traveled all over the world meeting new people and making new friendships while contributing to our knowledge of the ocean and its animals.

Ray of Hope Expeditions

I have been to Thailand, Ecuador, the Yucatan, Bali, Komodo National Park, Raja Ampat, the Great Barrier Reef, St Lucia, and Mexico.

Most of my adventures have taken place with Andrea Marshall’s Ray of Hope Expeditions as I have an affinity with Manta Rays. I have been diving in the three large oceans, the Atlantic, Pacific and Indian Oceans.

I may travel solo, but once I arrive I meet new friends who share my passion. I’m never lonely when I travel alone.

Have YOU Ever Wanted to Do This?

Have you ever wanted to do something you thought was “out there” or just downright crazy? Do you have a desire to get out into the world and make a difference? There are volunteer programs all over the world for adults. Most of them have nothing to do with scuba, and there are plenty of them on all continents. There are so many opportunities, and in some cases, for little cost.

I have some advice for you: be bold. Why not look at it? Eco-tourism, volunteer tourism, or citizen science will take you to places you’ve never even dreamed of.

Do you want to do something? Not even participating in science, just going off on your own? Do it now. Tomorrow is promised to no one, and in midlife who knows what is coming next?  Do something extraordinary for yourself, you won’t believe how empowered it will make you feel, and how it may change your perspective on life! It certainly changed mine, and for the better.

Tam Warner Minton is the travel blogger, writer, and photographer behind the adventure travel blog, www.travelswithtam.com. She has traveled to all seven continents and is an advocate for citizen science, the environment, and getting out of one’s comfort zone. An avid scuba diver, Tam goes on many ocean research expeditions and is an amateur underwater photographer. Her book, ALL FISH FACES, introduces amazing, colorful underwater creatures many have never seen before, but are crucial to our oceans. Showing kids of all ages the amazing life beneath the waves is the way to preserve our oceans for future generations! Partial proceeds benefit the Marine Megafauna Foundation.

By Lisa Goins

My husband and I live on the island of Java in Indonesia with our four children. We teach at the International school where our children attend. We have traveled extensively throughout Java enjoying the beauty of Indonesia. Our most memorable family vacation came about last year when my husband said that he wanted to take our children to a small, almost deserted Island in the Java Sea called

Menyawakan. I said, “You’re crazy!” But after a little research and a modest down payment, we were leaving the ground in a Cessna 402, flown by an ex-Air Force fighter pilot!

Pick your Paradise

Menyawakan is one of the 27 “paradise islands” in the protected Karimunjawa Marine Park archipelago. This resort island was selected in 1999 to be the local host and dive advisor for the National Geographic TV documentary, “Marine Parks of Indonesia,” an expedition led by Francis Lee of Singapore. It is located in the Java Sea, which is filled with reefs and marine life that offers every diver a new and exhilarating experience. Snorkelers and divers come from all over Indonesia to study the marine life surrounding this enchanted island. The resort on the island is called Kura Kura Resort.

Just after takeoff, our pilot asked if one of our children would like to fly the plane. Before I could object, my youngest son Spencer took the wheel and we all put on our white knuckles! The view was beautiful from the small plane. An assortment of islands and reefs were scattered everywhere like lily pads floating on a pristine sea.

Behind Curtain Number. One

Menyawakan was a spectacular sight. We could see the entire reef from the air, jutting out from the coconut trees, in shades of green painted on the water. The island itself is about 2 miles around, a leisurely walk, with never ending views of mountains and sea. Coconut trees sprinkle the sand like candles on a cake. Here in this paradise there is only one fly in the ointment, falling coconuts!

The pilot asked us if we wanted a closer look. While I was wondering what he meant by that, my children were nodding yes and the plane suddenly took a nosedive toward the bay! He circled the Island in one swoop, the wing of the plane nearly touching the water. For a moment I shared the thrill of a kamikaze pilot! We all held our breath and our hearts stopped, but our sense of adventure kept going as we marveled at the beauty of God’s creation from just a few feet above the water. We could actually see the staff at Kura Kura Resort wave at us and we could read the names on the boats. That moment remains frozen in my mind.

After we circled around Menyawakan, we headed for the big island of Karimunjawa for our landing. A delightful panorama of rice fields and mountains lined the runway. Children ran alongside the plane as we touched down and taxied over to a small hut like building, the Karimunjawa Airport. Wedeplaned, walked through the building, and watched wide-eyed as they threw our luggage into the back of an old pickup truck. My boys jumped into the back of the truck, and we followed them on foot. We proceeded down a dirt road to a ramp that led to a swamp. A speedboat, parked among literally hundreds of jellyfish, awaited our arrival. We boarded the outrigger named Fountain 38 and took off across the Java Sea.

Da Plane Da Plane

Arriving at Kura Kura Resort is much like arriving at Fantasy Island. The staff greets you as you get off the boat with smiles and huge coconut welcome drinks. As we scoped out the view from beneath the coconut trees, a sense of wonder surrounded us. They showed us to our bungalows, which were only about 15 feet from the water’s edge. I marveled at the thought of falling asleep with the sound ofwaves lapping gently at the shore.

There are 10 two-room deluxe bungalows and 5 VIP bungalows on the Island. They are currently in the process of building five new luxury beach villas, each with a private swimming pool. Every bungalow faces west with a sunset view. All rooms are furnished in teakwood. They are air-conditioned with all the luxuries of a 5 star resort.

After settling in we all took a walk across the beach as the sun began to set. The sunset over the Java Sea is a sight that beckons attention. As the sun slips into the ocean, it leaves colors of every hue for your eye to follow.

Snorkeling:

The next morning began with fresh fruit and an assortment of baked delicacies. We sat in the open-air restaurant (the only one on the island), with a beautiful view of the harbor, listening to the morning and planning the day’s activities. We decided to spend the day snorkeling around the island. This was our children’s first snorkeling trip, and we wanted to start them out slowly. After we ate we went to the dive shop and gathered up all the equipment we would need, including lots of sunscreen, and headed out to the dock. All of our snorkeling equipment was included in our package price.

My oldest son Mitchell was the first one in the water. He is 16 years old and had never snorkeled. He had that teenager attitude like, “O.k., this is going to be fun for about 5 minutes.” He put on his mask, stuck his face in the water, and when he emerged he looked like he had seen the Loch Ness monster. He was stunned.

The water below the dock was filled with millions of fish of all colors and size. “It’s just like an aquarium!” he blurted out before he dove in again. About 5 feet from the dock the ocean floor drops off. At one point we spotted a school of barracudas. We stopped to gawk at them, partly out of fear and partly out of awe, when suddenly we realized that there were hundreds of them!

There was literally a wall of barracuda’s within just a few feet of our fins! They were seemingly unconcerned about this little interruption from the world above and just moseyed on by with little regard for us. We slowly swam toward the surface, breaking into the air, yelling, “Did you see that?”

Many moments such as this ensued throughout the day. My daughter and I snuck up on a small octopus and watched as she maneuvered around her deep-sea home, changing colors every few minutes. We stared as a friendly eel kept poking his head out of his rocky dwelling, waiting for us to get tired and go away. My husband saw a grouper larger than himself, and finding Nemo became the challenge of the day.

Exquisite Coral

As we began to venture away from the dock we encountered a breathtaking array of coral. Exquisite coral of every kind lay quilted across the reef bed, a never-ending parade of bright colors providing endless hours of enjoyment for snorkelers. Canals, seemingly hand crafted by nature in a maze of beauty, were nestled just below the water’s surface.

We swam from canal to canal feeling the silent energy of underwater life. Sea anemones, kingdom and castle of the clownfish, were scattered among the coral, often hidden in cracks and crevices. Sea urchins, also known as nature’s pincushions, were to be carefully avoided, while soft corals and sea fans could be inspected up close and even touched. Soft corals, often referred to as underwater flowers, came in dazzling shades of red, pink, purple and yellow.

Stingrays were an exciting find, and starfish were scattered everywhere, clinging to rocks and coral as if hanging on for dear life! Dinner at Kura Kura’s one and only restaurant proved to be a most enjoyable experience. They serve both Western and Indonesian cuisine with assortments of seafood. We had 3 meals each day, and all were delicious! Drinks must be purchased separate from the package price.
SCUBA Diving

The island has its own dive shop, which provides SCUBA diving equipment free to all guests that have purchased dive packages. You can arrange several different dive packages including trips to nearby fringing reefs, atolls and underwater wrecks. The surrounding waters have a huge variety of fish, some rare,such as crocodile fish and leafy scorpion fish. Whale sharks are spotted year-round and add a lot of excitement for the adventurous diver!

Yan, the dive instructor, invited us to go out on an all day SCUBA diving trip. The boat was equipped with 6 wet suits, snorkel equipment and a full staff to cook for us throughout the day. We traveled across the Java Sea for about 45 minutes to a small, uninhabitedisland. We docked our boat in the bay area to facilitate dive instructions and still be able to swim to the good snorkeling areas.

Yan, our dive instructor, taught everyone in our family how to dive, one at a time. Learning to SCUBA dive is an experience in itself. Hold your nose, blow out through your ears in order to equalize the pressure every foot or so, breath through your mouth, let the air out of your floaties so you will sink, thumbs up if you want to go to the surface, thumbs down if you want to keep sinking, and whatever you do don’t forget to blow out your ears or you might start bleeding in the cavities just above your eyes from the pressure (which actually happened to our son, Mitchell). Whoa! That is a lot of things to remember!

Yan was patient with our children and gave excellent instructions. Each one of us spent time diving and snorkeling except for Hailey, my eldest daughter; she spent most of the day seasick!

Back to Kura Kura

During the ride back to Kura Kura, a family of dolphins that decided to join us pleasantly surprised us. We watched in awe as they raced along beside our boat, jumping into the air, spraying water on everyone and making wonderful noises. They put on quite a show for us, swimming seamlessly through the water, side by side, in unison. What a perfect ending to a lovely day at sea.

If you are interested in visiting Kura Kura Resort, see their web site at www.kurakuraresort.com

For More Info:

Kura Kura Booking Office
PADI Resort # 6133
Sunset Beach Cottages
Teluk Awur – 59424 Jepara
Indonesia

Phone +62 (0)291 595 931
Phone +62 (0)291 595 932
Fax +62 (0)291 595 933

Email: kurakura@idola.net.id
Web: www.kurakuraresort.com

Package Prices: Packages begin at 2 nts and go Up to 6 nts. You can also get more Elaborate dive packages. See website For details.

All Packages Include
Accommodations in deluxe bungalow, All meals in restaurant, aeroplane return transfer to / from Kura Kura Resort, boat dives and scuba gear (dive packages), use of snorkeling equipment, sea kayak, paddle boats, welcome drink and 21% Tax and service.

Jet skis are available for rent at 50.00 per hour.

How to get to Kura Kura Resort

From Jakarta Indonesia to Semarang
Departure Jakarta
Garuda Indonesia flight GA230, dep. 06.35 arr. Semarang 07.30
Mandala flight RI290, dep. 06.45 arr. Semarang 07.40
From Semarang to Jakarta
Departure Semarang
Garuda Indonesia flight GA237, dep. 18.35 arr. Jakarta 19.30
Mandala flight RI297, dep. 17.10 arr. Jakarta 18.05

Connections form Jogjakarta and Bali are also available.

Detailed information at: PT Kura Kura Aviation
Achmad Yani International Airport
501 45 Semarang
Indonesia
Phone: 024-760 8735
Tel/Fax 024-761 2282
Email: kura2aviation@idola.net.id

Lisa Goins lives and teaches in Indonesia. Contact her

Read more GoNOMAD stories about Indonesia

Learning Spanish on the Go in the Mexican Caribbean

By Cristina Espinosa

It was 10 a.m. on a Monday at my office in New York. I wasthinking about planning out my next vacation during some holiday time coming up next month. I was flirting with the idea of enrolling in an intensive Spanish course overseas and thinking some language skills might come in handy for my new job or during my future trips overseas.

My ultimate goal was to develop practical Spanish survival skills with which I could travel throughout the Spanish speaking world and have contact directly with the locals without the need for a bilingual guide or English tours. I knew I had been missing out on a huge part of traveling overseas and wanted to experience my next trip through the eyes of a native rather than just another tourist.
I felt some Spanish skills would be a great first step toward a more global perspective. Whereas I had always regretted not having learned more during the few Spanish classes I’d taken back in high school and college, all I could pretty much remember were conjugation tables and basic grammar.

Skills but not Studying

Reflecting on those tedious hours spent locked inside a classroom without any direct connection to the real world, I became less and less enthusiastic about spending my precious vacation time ‘going back to school.’ I knew I wanted develop some basic conversational skills but wasn’t too sure about the studying part. I marveled at the way explorers way back when, traveled to exotic destinations with the help of local guides and teachers who taught them about the region’s unique culture, language and customs while they experienced it. It seemed far more glamorous than spending my trip inside a school, albeit overseas.

The Tulum Mayan ruins

The first morning in Playa del Carmen (a former fishermen’s village that has turned into a charming bohemian European-style small town overlooking the Caribbean) I was relaxed but very excited about heading on the first day’s excursion.
During a welcome dinner last night together with the other trip’s participants and our LGs at a local Caribbean style Mexican restaurant; we got an exciting overview of the week ahead and a great introduction into their concept of making Spanish fun and easy.

I was relieved to see that they were even people who knew less than I did. They there was a couple from Germany who had pretty much never heard a word of Spanish before. Cristina, one of the three LGs on our trip, was by there side helping them understand everything that was going on.

They kept repeating sentences, and seemed very cool about their first steps in the language! Another participant, a Canadian, seemed to be already quite proficient in Spanish, and later told me that her aim was to perfect her conversational ability, something that she felt was very useful in her job as an ESL (English as a second language) teacher with many Spanish speaking pupils.

Everyone had a ball and we seemed to forget that we we’re actually learning at the same time. Looking forward to the next day’s activities, most people went back to our small quaint hotel early and hung out by the pool while resting up for the next day.

The next day, after a brief introduction of that day’s activities after a delicious breakfast, the LGs used all sorts of materials from blown-up digital posters to drawings to give us an overview of the Tulum archaeological site as well as the skills that each one of us could practice with our LG along the way. By 9:30 am, we were already in our Suburban SUV and in route to our first excursion.

Distinct from other archaeological sights in Mexico, Tulum is a special place rich in history and breathtaking views. Just north of the village of Tulum, stands the spectacular and expansive Mayan archaeological site. Built high atop a rock cliff, it formidably embraces the Caribbean Sea. We learned that this ancient walled city (Tulum is Maya for wall) originally took its name from the Maya word Zama, meaning dawn.

From the main temple, the Mayas were able to display torches in the windows facing the sea, guiding trading canoes through the break in the reef at night. These windows are visible evidence of their intelligence. It was obvious that the magic of the Maya is still alive and well in Tulum. As we explored the ancient temples, took a long dip in the Caribbean and had a picnic on a spectacular beach, our Language Guides were always were by our sides engaging us in conversation, resolving all of our doubts and making the process of learning totally dynamic.

Freshwater Sinkholes

On our way back, we stopped to appreciate a natural wonder unique to the Yucatan: the cenotes. These freshwater sinkholes each have their own unique personality (some enclosed in caves while others were completely open), but all of them with crystal clear water and amazing rock formations. As we snorkelled and explored various cenotes using underwater flashlights, everyone became enthralled by the discovery of this new (to us) incredibly unique natural wonder which we later learned had a rich history in the ancient Mayan world.

The constant immersion in Spanish part was so well intertwined into the day’s activities, most of us didn’t realize how much we were learning until we returned to our hotel and realized that we all needed a quick siesta to rejuvenate ourselves for the night ahead. We were having a great time as everyone tried their best to communicate and express themselves in Spanish (using anything from hand signals to English when necessary- sure helped that each LG spoke perfect English).

They created a fun and supportive environment where everyone felt comfortable to try out their Spanish, make plenty of mistakes and be bold in learning. I had never considered myself to be very courageous and would usually have remained silent rather than ask questions and risk embarrassment, however, this experience was entirely different. I felt as though I was on a wonderful voyage with good friends who just happened to speak perfect Spanish (LGs) rather than as part of a group tour. Two of our LGs were Mexican and one from Spain, so we also got to learn plenty about each country’s unique culture and customs along the way.

That night, we strolled along Playa del Carmen´s famous 5th Ave.(the most popular street in town) and had a hard time choosing between restaurants for dinner. It was amazing what a wide range of choices you have for eating out, both Mexican and international, all with a distinct Caribbean flavour. That is something you would expect at a night out in New York, but not in a little Mexican town!.

A private sailing trip to Isla Mujeres

After the usual introduction of the morning, we headed off to Cancun’s hotel zone to board a private sailing catamaran to host just our group. We were going to sail to Isla Mujeres, a nearby tiny Caribbean island which took its name from the many sculptures representing women that the Spaniard conquerors could see from their boats on their arrival. Everybody was excited to visit the local turtle farm, a huge effort from conservationist and authorities to preserve and protect the sea turtle, an amazing creature who lays its eggs in their coasts every year, and has many predators that nowadays is endangered. After spending the first couple of hours sailing

We again found ourselves chatting away in Spanish (haltingly at first) and little by little picking up plenty of words the LGs seemed intent on repeating. When I spoke with my husband back home (the poor thing couldn’t get vacations this time!) he wouldn’t imagine me speaking Spanish, since he’d never heard me before. In our past trips to Mexico or Spain, I let waiters and people at the hotel talk to me in English, because I didn’t think anyone could understand my Spanish! Now I felt more empowered every time I addressed a local in a shop and saw that they were able to understand me and actually relieved to speak to me in their own language.

During the next five days, we could explore all sorts of amazing places from ecoparks where one can bike, kayak or just hang out on a hammock, to the cultural centres like Xcaret which staged a Broadway type show showcasing the regions musical and cultural traditions in spectacular fashion. All along the way I improved my Spanish and came to love the region’s local flavour and laid back attitude. I unfortunately couldn’t spare another week from work and was envious of several of the other participants who had another full week to go.

Nevertheless, I had taken a giant leap as far as my Spanish goes and became a true believer in the concept — learn by doing, speaking, hearing and living it!

Roatan Island, Honduras Destination Guide

By Goin South Mike

WHERE?

Roatan Island is located in the Bay Islands, off the north coast of Honduras. Roatan is a small island, 30 miles long and around 3 miles wide, and includes old growth forests, beaches, iron shore and some hills up to nearly 1,000 feet in height. There is only one paved road and several dirt roads.

WHY GO?

Roatan is what the Caribbean used to be 20 years ago: undiscovered, inexpensive and charming. The island offers some of the best SCUBA diving in the world, while remaining very reasonable in cost. Soak in the relaxed, island way of life in the daytime, including hours of snorkeling just off the shore in many spots, and enjoy the hot nightlife in the small bars and discos in West End.

The locals are a delight, and range from Hondurans who have emigrated from the mainland, to the gentle spirited Caribs of Punta Gorda, known as Garifuna, who in addition to speaking English, have their own language, mythology and music.

And don’t forget the white islanders who are reputed to have descended from pirates.

WHEN TO GO

Visitors come year round, but the rainy season is roughly October through December. Usually the rains only last a few hours, but very occasionally, there may be up to a week of rain during that time.

GETTING THERE AND AROUND

By Air

There are weekly direct flights from Miami and Houston, and daily indirect flights by way of San Pedro Sula. Airlines servicing the island include American Airlines, Continental and Taca. If you don’t take the Taca direct flights, often you will take a smaller (puddle jumper) from San Pedro Sula. There are also occasional charter flights from Europe.

Overland

Take a bus, plane or car to La Ceiba, and take the daily boat from there.

Getting Around

No car is needed, since there is excellent public transportation in the way of mini-buses, and in some areas, water taxis. For exploring, a moped or bicycle is inexpensive, or if you really aren’t in a hurry, sea kayaks are available. There are also Suzuki Samurai’s and larger vehicles available for rent, if you want to explore everywhere.

BEST ATTRACTIONS

Swim or dive with uncaged dolphins and the occasional whale shark. Snorkel in Spooky Channel in Sandy Bay;climb to the top of the botanical gardens in Sandy Bay; visit Marble Hill Farms on the uncrowded East End where they make their own Batik clothing and island jams; visit the bird preserve in Sandy Bay; dance in the local discos or take a cayuca tour through the mangrove tunnels in Oak Ridge.

BEST UNUSUAL ATTRACTIONS

Visit the Iguana Reserve around lunchtime and see Big Red and hundreds of other iguanas. Bring along a watermelon or head of cabbage and watch them come out of the trees. Sherman Arch and his family protect them on acres of land devoted to the iguanas, to be later released into the wild. The preserve and hatchery is located in French Key next to French Harbour.

BEST ACTIVITY AND GUIDES

The best activity on Roatan costs little. Rent some snorkeling equipment and take the water taxi down to the one-mile long West Bay Beach. Have the driver drop you at the farthest dock. From there you can snorkel out and see all sorts of wondrous coral, tuna, parrot fish, yellow stripe and, if you are lucky and patient, maybe a spotted ray or a sea turtle.

There are many guides around West End. Some have boats and will take you out fishing, others will ride with you up island if you rent a car or a moped. If you plan to fish, make sure you aren’t fishing in the Marine Preserve extending from West Bay Beach to Sandy Bay.

If sailing is your thing, you may want to go for a sunset cruise at Belvederes or find Alex and he’ll take you for a sail to some snorkeling spots on his little wooden boat, Adventure Girl.

BEST ALTERNATIVE

If dolphins are your thing, join the Dolphin Encounters at Anthony’s Key Resort’s Institute for Marine Sciences for a day of swimming with and learning about dolphins. They offer daily open water dolphin swims and great kids camp programs. For information and reservations, see anthonys-key.com.

For the landlubbers, there is still treasure to be found, although the hidden pirate caches are reputed to be guarded by those long dead. Instead, spend time with the local islanders. They are quick with a tale and many are also very knowledgeable in the ways of natural medicine and charms.

BEST LODGINGS

• Pinocchios in West End
  Has decks, hammocks, overlooks the sea. ($35 Double)
  011-504-445-1466
  pnoll@hondutel.hn
• Bananarama in West Bay
  Includes your own little cabin, just off the best beach on Roatan. ($45 Double)
  HN 011-504-992-9679
  bananarama@globalnet.hn
• Caribbean Seashore B&B in Sandy Bay
  Includes breakfast, houses for rent by the week. ($35 Double)
  HN 011-504-445-1123,
  emerlin@hondutel.hn
• Judy’s Fantasea in Sandy Bay
  Close to the dolphins and Carambola Gardens. ($15 Single, $100 a week)
  US (225) 291-7518
  Judyroatan@cs.com
• Anthony’s Key Resort
  Cabanas on a peaceful lagoon with diving, snorkeling, dolphins, horseback riding and more. Weekly all-inclusive rates.
  (504) 445-1327, or 800-227-3483.
  anthonyskey.com
  akr@anthonyskey.com

BEST EATS

• Pinocchios, West End: Vegetarian choices and crepes. Puravida, West End: Pizza from Italy. Oceanside, Sandy Bay: Great fish and chips, all you can eat lobster one night a week. Casa Romeos, French Harbour: (upscale) Excellent Conch Chowder, Calamari.Paradise Beach Villas, West Bay: The Coconut Shrimp is incredible
• Belvedere’s, West End: Spicy Lobster Marinara, Veggie Lasagna

BEST CULTURAL ENTERTAINMENT

Occasional Garifuna dance displays in Punta Gorda. The music is hypnotic. The band Bobbie Rieman and Tunu play most weeks. They are a blues-based band with a good harp man.

BEST SHOPPING

Ask around about local artisans including painters and wood carvers. They show their wares in West End at times, or you can go to Sandy Bay where there are two artisan exhibits.

MONEY AND COMMUNICATIONS

Although the islands are part of Honduras, most of the people speak English, albeit with an island accent and unique grammar. For example, instead of asking, “Who is the owner of that dog?,” they will ask, “Who that dog be for?” If you hear an islander talk about “duppies,” you should know that they are talking about ghosts.

Of course, according to island lore, ghosts are easily fooled because they can’t turn corners. Banks will do a cash advance on credit cards, US Dollars or lempiras are accepted, and traveler’s checks are readily cashed.

BEST RESOURCES

Roatanet.com: Visitors Guide to Roatan
roatanet.comRoatan Discussion List
groups.yahoo.com/group/roatan/